Rigging the Banshee Sailboat- PART II 

Part I | Part II | Part III | PDF version (1 MB) | E-mail Steve
 Step Description & Post-it Notes of Interest (inside green boxes)
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Illustration
Some images are imagemaps with pop-up Alt tags for various parts.
16 Secure the halyard
Making sure that the halyard does not wrap the mast-- thread the halyard through the deck block and cleat it as shown.
 
My halyard is 32 feet long and seems just the right length.

OTHER LINE LENGTHS:
Main sheet: 25'
(This length allows the boom to move to about 85 degrees starboard/port. Much longer and you may break the forward boom insert free. The same is true if you don't have a figure 8 knot (stopper) in the end of your mainsheet!
Outhaul: 5'
Downhaul: 5'
Boom Vang: 10'
Boom Lift: 19'6" 

 

halyard cleatboom vang fiddle blockhalyard blockhalyard
17 Same photo as above but from a wider angle. Do NOT hoist the mainsail at this time. DO cleat it however!
18 Connecting the Boom
Position the boom within the cockpit with the outhaul track of the boom to the rear.
19 Carefully(!) remove the clevis pin to ready it for mating with the mast. I'd suggest getting a spring loaded pin (about $20) instead- they are much easier to handle. BTW, it's a good idea to have extra connecting pins too!
 
You may notice that my boom is on its ninth life. The plug in the mast connecting end has been pulled clear on a few occasions. I was not using a boom vang in my early sailing days. In those first 4 years of sailing I was caught twice in a sudden thunderstorm. On both occasions my boom went nearly verticle in anything but a luffing heading. Like an idiot I tried to run using only the mainsheet to control the boom. Major mistake! On both occasions the boom was yanked from the "gooseneck" mast attachment and nearly taken my head off. VERY scary to have a whipping mainsail, mainsheet, and boom to contend with. Get a Vang!

More detail on gooseneck design

20 The mast/boom connector, called a "bail" (tight view-- located on the lower part of the mast, aft side.
21 The gooseneck of the boom mated with the bail of the mast via a clevis pin connector. 
22 Attaching the Boom Lift
Connect the boom lift line to the aft end of the boom. I've made my boom-lift line about six inches longer than the distance offered when the mainsail is hoisted.
 
This line does nothing while the sail is hoisted (maybe a rather large tell-tail?). The length of boom lift line is 19'4" including clips and I've just jury rigged a short length of line (white nylon rope) on the aft end of the boom to provide a connection. Another view of the opposite side. Here is another boomlift image showing sail both hoisted and lowered. The boom lift should be long enough that is does not distort the shape of the leech edge of the sail, but not so long that the boom does not stay clear of the cockpit when the sail is lowered.
23 Rigging the Mainsheet
Tie the main sheet to the thwart block using a bowline knot (user-controlled bowline Quicktime movie). Make the loop large enough so that the tail of the mainsheet (rope) will not get "pinched" in the main block.
 
My mainsheet is either 5/16" or 3/8" poly single braid. It is soft and very pliable. A stiffer rope will tend to tangle. My mainsheet is 25 feet long.

 

24 Thread the mainsheet (1) through the forward boom block (from its aft side); (2) through the traveler block (from its forward side); (3) through the aft boom block (from its forward side) and then (4) through the swiveling ratchet cleat. The mainsheet should NOT be cleated (as it is in this photo-- [I needed tight lines for the shot]) at this point. The boom should move freely. Cockpit mainsheet blocksomething1Mainsheet attached to cockpit block with a bowline knotAft mainsheet boom blockForward mainsheet boom blockMainsheetBoomOuthaul cleat
25 Then tie a figure 8 knot ("stopper") in the end of the mainsheet to prevent it from escaping from the ratchet cleat.
26 Rigging the Outhaul
Slip the clews outhaul shackle onto the boom track while pulling the outhaul line aft. The outhaul line should be above the shackle. Make sure that you do NOT twist the outhaul portion of the sail here (Don't worry, you'll know pretty soon if you make this mistake)! Pull the foot of the sail tight to determine which end of the shackle slips onto the track first. The outhaul is attached to the clew gromet with another bowline knot. You will need to adjust the outhaul tension after hoisting the mainsail and cleating the downhaul and vang. A tuned mainsail will have a slightly bowed mast.
27 Thread the outhaul through the outhaul block (pulley on the aft end of the boom) and maintain tension while...
28 feeding the outhaul through the boom's outhaul clam cleat.
29 Pull the outhaul aft slightly to "jam" the line into the cleat.
 
My outhaul line is about seven feet long. Five would do.

 

30 Boom mainsheet and outhaul jobs completed.

Rigging the Banshee Sailboat- PART II 

Part I | Part II | Part III | E-mail Steve