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(Search it for keywords of interest to you) Please note! I made links where I thought they would be useful. Most links open a new window to the targeted page. I'll try to maintain this by adding new messages and making corrections/additions when suggestions are made. Feel free to send photos, illustrations, and links where they will add value. ADVICE FOR USE: This document if well over 100 pages long! From your browser menus select; Edit > Find... and type a keyword of interest (for instance; "rudder"). You can then "Find next" repeatedly untill you have searched the archive. Thanks for all the great info! Steve Current Content: June 22, 1999 - October 21, 2003 |
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Date:
Tue, 22 Jun 1999
From:
Rebecca 'Robbi' Adams - massageworks@therapist.net
To:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: Banshee
Hi Steve,
No, I did not find a jib sail. I did not know that you could put a jib sail on this boat. I have heard from CA that it is a very fast boat with the sail that is provided for it. I am sailing with my six year old I do not think it needs to be any faster. I am getting a very clear picture that I would be overturned very often if I had a jib to bother with. Anyway, I have never heard of any jib for this one. No one in CA has mentioned that. A gentleman answered my e-mail from Sacramento about the sails and the deal was his two oldest sails for $100.00. He had a new one made. You can get a new one made for $325.00-$525.00.
Sherron at Hart Sails made them for him. She owns the rights to the racing sails. You can not race in a one class race with just any sail, you must use her sails or the one that came with the boat. He said that he races this boat quite a bit. He did not have anything for me as far a pictures for rigging, so I have been lost about that until now, so THANK YOU! I really appreciate that!
Have you ever taken your boat to Clarks hill reservoir near Augusta? That is where I learned how to sail my father's Coronado 15 when I was a little girl. I brought it down here to FL when I left home and sailed every day until my father felt the need to sell it. It has been ten years since I have been in a sailboat. I will get to put it together today because the sails should be here! I cut and sanded my centerboard yesterday. I just have to finish it with marine polyurethane and we are off! By the way I have the official one class racing rule book for the Banshee do you have that? I would be glad to send that to you. I do not have a flier for the boat though. Does it have more information about the boat that is not in your pictures? I would love to know how your center board fits in the trunk? I have to get cracking on that center board if I want it to be dry and waterproof by the time I need to get it in the water!
Thank you again! ~Robbi:-)
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
Rebecca 'Robbi' Adams
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: Banshee
Hi Robbi,
I'm not sure that you CAN put a jib on the Banshee. It just seemed to be rigged for it with the side cleats and deck-nose fixture. I'd like to get some experience in using more than one sail. I hope in the new couple of years to move to a "upper twenty-something/lower thirty something" older Catalina (or similar). I want to try some overnite sailing off the coast. The Banshee is a joy to sail! In a 10 mile and hour breeze it flies. Beware! My son (now 15) was scared to death at age 6 when I first started taking him out... He was terrified of heeling until I spent a couple of hours practicing intentional capsizes with him in a moderate wind close to shore. He learned to right the boat by himself (all 60 pounds of him!). After that he was okay. FYI, here is the process for righting the boat:
1. release the mainsheet cleat (IMPORTANT!);NEW! Capsize recovery animation 1.5 MB
2. swim around to the daggerboard/hull;
3. climb onto the daggerboard (stay close to the hull);
4. grasp the edge of the decking;
5. position your feet as necessary (if you are light more toward the tip of the daggerboard) and lean away from the boat.
6. as it rights -- DUCK UNDER THE BOOM! and climb into the boat.
I've been to Clarks-Hill a few times. I usually go sailing off Pickney Island (just this western side of Hilton Head, S.C.). --Sailing with the dolphins! It is a real kick.
The
Banshee
flier is an 11 x 17 one sheet with pictures and line drawings (same
side and top shots I used). Photo shows a child "surfing" on the foredeck
and another shows the same child righting the boat after a capsize (probably
seconds after the first photo!). There is nothing of substance in the flier--
that's why I had put the rigging material together. I had to figure it
our myself with some suggestions from my father-in-law who used to race
in the J-24 class in San Diego. Tell me more about your daggerboard. What
did you make it with? Mine is pretty sad looking. It's the original cedar(?)
but has several missing chunks and even more plastic-like filled areas
where there USED to be missing chunks! I'm thinking of building a new one
too. You said: >I would love to know how your center board fits in the
trunk? Do you mean in the daggerboard well or the trunk of your car!? During
transport I bungee mine into the boat. It is rather large for a car trunk...
If you mean in the daggerboard well-- Fit it in however you'd like. In
the front, centered, or toward the back; straight down/angle back-- It
all depends on the load in your boat and the sailing conditions. I usually
have mine positioned in the front of the well pointing straight down. I
bungee it in pretty snuggly- or it tends to pop up when the wind dies.
I'm in the process now of replacing my rotten transom. Banshees are notorious
for this BTW. Keep them OUT of the weather. Mine had been stored outside
on the trailer tipped so that it would drain-- but water got under the
fiberglass in between the plywood layers and it has rotted significantly.
I could pinch the transom walls and there was a LOT of flexibility in several
areas --that was a major concern. I tried some of the "solutions" offered
via the Banshee list ("GitRot") to no avail. So this weekend I'm doing
major surgery. My boat has been out of action since last summer. I'm looking
forward to getting it back into service. I'd love to have the "racing rules
book" you mentioned. Is it faxable? If so I'm at 912.681.0099. If not,
my snail mail is in my sig. I do not anticipate doing any racing-- but
who knows... Well- better get back to work. I hope you and your son have
a greatly successful first sail!
Enjoy the water! Steve
------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 24 Jun 1999
From:
Rebecca 'Robbi' Adams
To:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: Banshee
Hello Steve,
I will send the rule book today via snail mail. It is very simple. I have some questions for you. Do you not use the side cleats at all? What is the transom and the thwart? Do you have a cleat on the deck by the mast? I am having a hard time finding a basic sailing book to read. Everything here is very advanced. Just a beginning book would be nice. If you know of one send the ISBN # and I will order it. I got my sails today and I have checked them out. They are both fitted with a sock on the end so it does not need a halyard. The cunngingham just pulls it down. Evidently the racers in CA all do it this way. I hear that they haven't seen a halyard for this boat in a long time. I guess that is one less thing they have to worry about while sailing. I guess that will do it for now.
Thanks
for all the info!
~Robbi:-)
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
Rebecca 'Robbi' Adams
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: Banshee
Hi Robbi,
I suppose that is the side cleats are not used for a jib then they must be for tying up to the dock...? Yeah. It's not really a standard "cleat." I have two "friction" cleats on the deck by the mast well. They are V shaped. There is a hole nearest the tip of the V. Feed the line thru the hole and up thru the V. Pressure from the line "pinches" the line between the sides of the V.
The
book I love is entitled "Sailing for Dummies" ISBN is 0-7645-5039-X Couldn't
be simpler.
You can order it at Amazon.com. I paid about $15 I think.
A sock-- huh? That would worry me. I've been caught out in a thunderstorm a couple of times in my Banshee and I was blown all over EVEN WITH THE SAIL DOWN! The only defense would be an intentional capsize with a sock in place... ??? You might want to think about that issue carefully.
Steve
------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 24 Jun 1999
From:
Rebecca 'Robbi' Adams
To:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: Banshee
I have gotten my sails today and the guy who sold them to me races this boat all of the time. I will send a copy of his diagrams to you. You will then see what the cleats on the side are for. The light bulb went on when I saw his diagram. I will have to find out about the windy sailing and he said that if I wanted to I could take the top of the sock off to have a halyard if I wanted to but not very many of the racers do that out there. Even the sail he just had made he had the top of the sleeve put on. I don't know I am just glad to have a sail for this boat. New ones are terribly expensive. Well you should get some things in the mail from me soon. Let me know if you've gotten them. I am ordering that book tonight.
Thank you! ~Robbi :-)
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
Rebecca 'Robbi' Adams
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: Banshee
Hi Robbi,
Finally! I've loacted the Banshee Flier. I had lost in in one of the many piles in my office [we've been changing offices]. Could you send your fax number again? I'll get it out today. How's the sailing going? I've cut my old rotten transom off-- and been glassing, sanding, glassing, sanding, etc. for a solid week now.... No, not the transom. Everything else! :-( Found hairline cracks on the hull, on the edges of the daggerboard well, in the mast well, one major crack on the deck, etc. A major overhaul. But it's long overdue. Can't wait to get it in the water. Did you see John P's latest post (You were mentioned there)? The story on the U-31 was a hoot.
Have a good one, Steve
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
banshee
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Old Banshee Flier Online
Hey Banshee fans,
I've have a number of requests for a copy of my rare Banshee "Operators Manual" (dare I call it that?) since I mentioned it a few years ago. Since the last request I decided it might be a good resource to "webize"-- So, I've done so. It's at brochure.html. Remember it's 1970's(?) vintage. Some of the info (regarding the Banshee association) probably is not current.
Enjoy, Steve
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
"Chris Freeman" - c-n-free@worldnet.att.net
To:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Banshee info
Date:
Thu, 1 Jul 1999
Thanks for sharing the info & the link. I am continually amazed at the enthusiasm of this fleet.
Regards,
Chris
Lone
Carolina Banshee owner 411
------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 01 Jul 1999
From:
Chris Freeman
To:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: Banshee info
Lake Murray, SC. I primarily crew on a J/24 (foredeck) We do a lot of racing here on our lake & go to regattas in Charleston, Wrightsville Beach NC, Lake Lanier GA, & Augusta GA. The Banshee, I horse traded for with a canoe & a little cash. It has been a fun little boat, but having the only one on the lake it's not easily raced. We also have a Catalina 22, though I still would rather race on a J.
Fair winds, Chris
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
Mountnr
Date:
Sat, 3 Jul 1999
Subject:
Boat questions
To:
banshee
I bought a Banshee recently, have a few questions.
1)
What is the line that is attached to the head of the sail for?
[Halyard-
for raising sail if you do not have a "sock" style sleeve.]
2)
Is wrapping the sail around the mast the best way to reef? [not advised--
if blowing that hard go in]
3)
Is a halyard a good idea and if so , what is the best way to rig it?
4)
My hull says BSD06504M79K. Does that mean I have boat number 6504, which
was built in 1979?
[For
the answer the the last question see: HIN
(Hull Identification Humbers) Info here]
Thanks very much in advance!
Sincerely, Bill Potts Livermore, Ca
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
Bryan Bentz
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: Old Banshee Flier Online
Hi Bryan,
You are welcome to link to or clone the pages. However, I'm webmaster here at our Center and don't see any problem with keeping them here for a long time. Steve
>Thats great! I'll stick in a pointer from the Banshee page I've got. If you ever have any difficulty hosting what you have, I'd be proud to maintain copies at the (zero cost) MIT site.
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
"John Poimiroo"
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: Old Banshee Flier Online
Thanks John.
Sure do enjoy your fleet reports! The last one re the C-31 was a HOOT! :-) Ever thought about archiving them? If you have photos to add they could be a neat web resource. I look forward to seeing your flier. If you need assistance with layout it out let me know.
Steve
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
Brian F Larson - bflarson@cnde.iastate.edu
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: Old Banshee Flier Online
No sweat Brian.
It was a "labor of love" and a trip down memory lane-- and it will reduce time spent locating and faxing the stuff in the future. Many folks sailing Banshees in Iowa? Steve
>Thanks, Steve.
>I found the information interesting and I appreciate your effort to get the material on the Internet.
>Brian
F. Larson
>
Associate Scientist Center for NDE Iowa State University
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
DIALSF@aol.com
Date:
Fri, 2 Jul 1999
Subject:
Re: Old Banshee Flier Online
To:
sbonham
Hi Steve
Iam not an official member of the fleet but love sailing my Banshee up at Scotts Flat Lake in the Sierra's every Summer! I was, years ago in the 60s, General Mgr. of Marine Plastics Inc., the original Mfg. of the Banshee, and my (former) brother in Law Dick Reid, designed the Banshee and we built the first generation up to the time that Dick sold his interest to Barry Brook and production resumed in Santa Cruz, Calif. some years later. We also built the Flying Dutchman, 21 ft. Olympic Class and the trainer for that class, the Flying Dutchman Jr. 16 ft. Sloop. Thank you again for the flier, it was very nastalgic indeed ! Have a wonderful Fourth of July and stay in touch when you have time.
Sincerely, Skip Stanyan
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
DIALSF
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: Old Banshee Flier Online
Skip!
Gee, you're a good guy to have in the neighborhood! I'm currently replacing my Banshee transom. Could I ask for some advice? I've cut the old rotten thing off and I'm in the process of patching some small hairline cracks in the hull. Soon I plan to add as many swimming pool noodles as I can wedge into the flotation cells. Last time I had her out she took on a LOT of water... Then I'll put a new transom back on. Here's my plan -- please review & let me know if I'm on the right track... I'm no boatwright-- but do enjoy learning new things. Thanks in advance.
The plan...
1. cut pressure-treated 3/4 plywood from old transom "template" Is this the same as marine plywood? If not, What's the diff? Should I cover this with with a few layers of fiberglass PRIOR to step 2? I noticed that the original (?) transom did not-------------------------------------------------------------2. Use Bondo to join transom to flotation cells and deck. I'm planning to use a come-along or such to secure parts during curing. I'll brace the backside of the transom with a couple of 2x4's to prevent the transom from bending inward toward the come-along.
3. Glass over all junctures... 6-8 layers (mat,cloth,mat,cloth,mat, cloth,mat, cloth).
4. Gelcoat or paint with enamel
From:
"Blosen, Bill" - bill.blosen@compaq.com
Subject:
RE: Banshee hull numbers
Date:
Tue, 6 Jul 1999
HI,
After
hearing questions about the Banshee hull numbers I thought I would pass
this along: check out this website it will answer ALL your questions:http://boatsafe.com/nauticalknowhow/hin.html
On the other questions: 1 ) I am not sure. Adjustable attachment to top
of mast, instead of a shackle? 2) I think so. 3) I would only have a halyard
if I anticipated having to lower the sail while on the water. On the beach,
just carefully roll the boat on to its side, walk to the end of the mast
in order to detach and lower the sail. 4) PS: banshee hull numbers and
sail numbers do not match. I assume it was easier that way at the factory.
Regards, Bill Blosen Compaq Computers
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
"Gary Siegle" - oscar@one.net
Subject:
User Manual
Date:
Thu, 8 Jul 1999
I was wondering when these boat where sold if they had a users manual with them would like to know. And if so if they are still available somewhere. thanks Gary
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
"Gary Siegle"
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: User Manual
Check out mainpage on an on-line version.
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
"Rilla McColl" - rmccoll@mediaone.net
Subject:
Banshee
Date:
Mon, 12 Jul 1999
We have a 1978 Banshee whose papers claim it is 14 feet, but the web site I got the e-mail address off thinks Banshees are 13. In any case, the thing that holds the mast into the bottom of the boat is broken. (Perhaps it's called a step - perhaps not. Sorry to be so non-nautical.) We would dearly love to fix it and would appreciate any ideas on how to go about it.
Thanks!
Pete
and Rilla McColl
Ponte
Vedra Beach, FL
------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 19 Jul 1999
Subject:
new e-mail address
From:
f j goeckner
Hi Guys,
[e-mail address comment deleted] I also have a new sail from Sherron Hart which looks & works pretty nice. Now I have to find a race to test it out.
Fritz Goeckner
------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 20 Jul 1999
From:
John Maguire
To:
Banshee
Subject:
Banshee web site and email letter
Hi. My information is below. I ran into Charlie Hess yesterday at Huntington Lake, California. I've owned a banshee since 1984 and recently got another used one because it was in better shape (didn't leak!) both banshees are 25-30 years old. I want to know the web address for the web page, and also be on any Banshee email list.
Please sign me up!
John Maguire
------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 20 Jul 1999
From:
Wendy Pebler
Subject:
Banshee for Sale
For Sale 14 foot Banshee Sailboat, Gold with white interior Fully rigged Rainbow Sail Trailer All in great shape Registrations up to date $600.00
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
"Bruce Hatch"
Subject:
Banshee for sale
Date:
Thu, 22 Jul 1999
I have a banshee, built for coastguard training program, for sale. I am located in Ukiah, CA (about 110mi North of S.F.) w/trailer. $500.00.
------------------------------------------------------------
Date
sent: Sun, 01 Aug 1999
From:
Christopher Wright
Subject:
Instructions
I have purchaced a used Banshee and need rigging instructions, if any one can help.
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: Maintainence Help for my Banshee
DJ,
This seems to be a classic problem with Banshees. I'm in the final stages of completing a transom replacement on my 1976 vintage Banshee. I tried some cheap fixes that worked for a while... First, put some layers of new glass across the top of the transom and reinforced the hull/transom junctures. This just delayed the major repair job-- Not a good fix.
How bad is the rotting? When I bought my Banshee (used in 1990) it had deliminated on the outer edges of the transom. I suspected some rot but it didn't appear to be serious until a couple of years ago. If the damage is minimal and localized you can try "Git-Rot" an expensive (4 oz. bottle is about $30) penetrating resin that will harden the rotten areas (Really HARD - rock hard!). Just drill holes (many small holes are better than fewer larger holes) into the damaged areas. Let it drain. Amazing how much water the transom plywood will hold! My boat was still dripping after a week.... My guess was that it was holding about 5-10 ounces. When your boat has not dripped for a week or so "inject" the Git-Rot. Let it cure (I waited 2 weeks) and fill and relaminate the work areas. Git-rot got me thru 2 summers- but the other untreated areas continued to breakdown. Last time I was out sailing I noticed that the interior transom wall (where the rudder linkage hardware is visible) was "spongy" -- I could pinch it with my fingers and compress it 1/8 of an inch. I decided to overhaul the whole thing.
I cut
off the old transom with a circular saw.
[I
don't suggest doing this! It was a lot more work than I thought. Do this
instead --->GREAT TRANSOM REPAIR ADVICE!!!
]
It
was pretty badly rotted-- and flakey except where I treated it with Git-Rot
(I had only used one small bottle). If I used three I might have avoided
this. :-( Using the old transom as a template (minus 1/4 inch along the
bottom edge-- you'll make it up with laminate) I cut a new one from 3/4
inch pressure-treated plywood. I laminated the transom to the extreme...
Fiberglas Mat, more mat, cloth, mat, cloth, cloth (Yes, the transom is
heavy now). Drilled temporary holes into the transom so I could winch it
into place against the hull/aircells for bonding and laminating. I'm putting
the final layers of laminate on now. She's almost as good as new. The transom
replacment has been interesting but NOT fun. My new nickname at home is
"sticky" and I've spent a small fortune on resin, acetone, and fiberglass
material at the local Lowes. My advice -- Sand off the entire aft wall
of your transom-- thru the gelcoat and glass until you get down to the
plywood. Let it dry out. Inject the git-rot GENEROUSLY. Let it cure. Rebuild
and shape the original transom wall with bondo or another good shapable
filler. Reglass generously. Get Git-Rot... and plenty of it.
Steve
>The rubber strip on top of my transom was loose and water has gotten into the wood which has started to delaminate and rot. Any ideas on how to repair this?
>Thanks,
>djinoregon
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
Djinoregon - Djinoregon@aol.com
Date:
Wed, 4 Aug 1999
Subject:
Re: Maintainence Help for my Banshee
To:
sbonham
Thanks for the great ideas on fixing my transom. I was hoping for a quick fix so I could get in some more sailing this year but after reading your message I think I"d rather make this my winter project and do it right. This boat has been with my family for 20 years and holds some sentimental value. DJ
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
Mountnr
Date:
Wed, 25 Aug 1999
Subject:
Traveler and mainsheet system
To:
banshee
Would like to know what brand and model traveler people are using for their Banshee. Also, what type of mainsheet block and cleat? I am using the stock set-up but want to switch, Thanks alot, Bill Potts
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
"Lane, Brian L MVR" - brian.l.lane@usace.army.mil
To:
"'banshee"
Subject:
new banshee owner
Date:
Tue, 14 Sep 1999
I have just bought a used banshee and would like and info on the proper maintenance and setup.
Thank
You
Brian
L. Lane
U.S.
Army Corps of Engineers,
Rock
Island District Engineering Division
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
"R.W.Barnes"
Hi:
I bought my Banshee back in the early 1970's when my wife made me sell
my big Islander cruiser. I loved it then, although I am getting a little
long in the tooth for the acrobatics it requires. About 10 years ago My
son hit a rock, flipped and lost the upper lower mast and rudder. We didn't
know where to go for replacement parts so we had to get a (shudder) Laser
sail, mast and tiller assembly. So now we have a "Blazer". We really cant
tell any difference in sailing characteristics and the boat has still the
much superior cockpit layout to the Laser. Anyway, in case we lose anything
else on the boat, can you tell us were we can get Banshee replacement parts?
Thanks
------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 26 Sep 1999
There
is a Banshee for sale in my area and I'm thinking of purchasing it, but
there is no sail with the boat. I was wondering if you could give me any
info as where to buy one. I would appreciate any information that you could
e-mail me.
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
LASERJIMC
Last
I heard, Kim Desenburg, North Coast Yachts, Oakland, CA had parts and tooling
for the Banshee. In case you do'nt find a factory board, dimensions per
the 6/1/79 rules book are: span below keelson 32 1/2" chord at keelson
11 1/2" chord at max. span 8 1/2" maximum thickness 1" Shape and dimensions
above bottom of hull are unrestricted. The section, while unspecified,
approximates an NACA 0006 airfoil. My experience is that shape and finish
of board and rudder are critical if you expect the boat to point and perform
well.
Jim
Christopher
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
tom-miller
I got
a banshee at a yard sale the other day. The hull seems to be in OK shape.
The standing rigging is all there and the sail is probably useable, at
least for a while. But most of the running rigging is gone or in really
bad shape. Has anyone got some drawings or pictures that show detail as
to where lines should be run and blocks should be installed? The last time
I sailed a banshee was at least ten years ago and I just don't remember
any more. Maybe there are some banshees in the SF bay area I could visit
and see how they are rigged.
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
tom-miller
I looked
at the brochure. The drawing that showed the basic rigging is helpful.
Thanks.
>Hi
Tom,
>Steve
------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 05 Jan 2000
I'm
looking to buy a used Banshee Sail. There is no racing around here, so
maybe one of you racers has an older one in decent conditon. My sail got
pilfered so I now have none. I still have to redo the rotted transom and
the ice melt before I can go sailing again. Thanks for any leads.
Steve
Chaikin
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
"Donald Dahl" - donwecarerose@mindspring.com
Your
web site is a great find!!!! As my wife and I have Recently accuired a
1977 Banshee that seems to be in very good shape but neither of us have
a clue on how to rig it nor do either of us have any sailing experiance
hopfuly we will be able to hook-up with some of the Banshee owners here
in the Sacramento aera as we see there are quite a few. Please add as to
your list, we live in Sacramento.
Thanks
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
"Dean Eppley"
Banshee
Racers, Folsom Lake Yacht Club has passed out the Race Committee
assignments for the year and the open centerboard fleet has been given
the second race day of each series. Since when I look around the
only non-keelboat racers I see are Banshees, we're it. If you are
interested in doing race committee for a race day, please give me a call
916-985-4236, or send me an e-mail. No experience is required since
we train. Guests, kids, nice dogs etc. are welcome if arranged in
advance. It is a great way for new racers or the uninitiated to see
what it is like. (Plus the Banshee committees are always a fun time!!!).
Thanks to our own Craig Lee for doing committee last weekend - he did a
great job in spite of the less than stellar wind conditions!
Banshee Committees needed for.... · Frostbite #2, Saturday January
22, 2000 (roughly 9 AM - 3 PM, Folsom Lake Marina ) - Dean and Daria will
be there - others are welcome.· · Spring #2, Saturday March
25, 2000 (roughly 9 AM -3 PM) - Race chairman and crew needed.·
· Summer #2 (Date not yet set) - Race chairman and crew needed.·
· Fall #2 (Date not yet set) - Race chairman and crew needed.·
Thanks!
Dean Eppley
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
"Dean Eppley"
The
Sacramento Banshee Fleet web page is now available with Banshee event dates
listed. The address is http://www.geocities.com/banshee_fleet_one
Thanks, Dean Eppley
------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 17 Jan 2000
I just
purchased a Banshee Sailboat the needs some transom work because part of
the core has become de-laminated. I was wondering if anyone else had this
experience and what they did to fully repair the boat. I also am in need
of the proper way to rig the boat for class racing. Are travelers allowed?
Are there sail type restrictions? I also am not sure if the centerboard
I received with it is the stock type. I need to know the dimensions of
the centerboard, including minimum weight. I hope to have this boat fully
operational by April and so would appreciate any speedy responses I can
get. (Late responses ok to)
Ken
Perine
------------------------------------------------------------
From: DIALSF
Ken,
Go to this web site for rudder plans, sail plans, daggerboard plans and
Official Banshee Class Rules.
As
far as the rudder, I would suggest taking a router and carefully routing
out the wood laminated to transom until you have a nice clean, flat area
that consists of the Plastic laminate of hull, devoid of any material.
Be careful not to go thru the Transom Laminate with the router or whatever
you decide to use to remove rotting wood!
Cut
a new piece of marine grade plywood at least half inch thick, and use the
router, or by hand if no router, round the edge of the plywood on the bottom
& side that goes against the transom so that it fits the radius of
the hull/transom juncture. It should fit nice and snug between gunwhale
tanks and transom, but not too tight. Rough up plywood with 30 grit sandpaper
on side that laminates to transom and wipe transom and Plywood clean with
acetone. Rough up half inch area on side of tanks (only where new transom
plywood will come in contact with them) so glass and plywood will bond
to tank sides as well as transom itself. (DONT GET MESSY WITH THE RESIN......HUGE
MISTAKE)
Mask
tanks and just ahead of where plywood will end up on hull floor, so you
dont get resin runoff that will leach from transom ply when Ply is clamped
to transom during lamination to hull. Use ounce and a half fiberglass mat
with resin, not "catalyzed" to hot, and place ply against transom area.
Take C-Clamps and place wood 2x4s or similar to use as clamp blocks to
spread the pressure of the clamps evenly as possible against ply and suck
it in as evenly as possible against hull/transom. you might want to clean
any residual resin off boat or elsewhere before it sets up. After glass
has cured for a day or so, put one more layer of ounce and a half mat on
interior side of transom, let cure, sand and finish with coating of choice.
Make sure you seal with resin, the top of the transom, so water does not
intrude into plywood and start rotting it all over again. Install rudder
hardware, drain plug, (note- you may have to adjust tank drains if plywood
overlaps them) install plastic or aluminum trim cap ,1/2 inch wide, over
entire transom top and bond with strong adhesive. I would avoid using screws
to fasten trim cap as it tends to split the plys and allows water to intrude
again.
You
be the judge and dont feel you have to do it "MY" way. OK! Use your own
best judgment. I was a part of Marine Plastics, and built the first generation
of Banshees and Flying Juniors so I have had some experience, but I think
common sense and thinking it out carefully, goes a long way. I have to
replace my rotten transom as well for this season so I will be getting
my hands dirty as well. Best of luck on your new Banshee and hope to meet
you all at Folsom Lake this year.
Best
regards, Skip Stanyan, SF
PS
I'm still looking for a kick up rudder in any workable condition.
------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 19 Feb 2000
Hey
everyone,
I am
selling my Banshee for $500.00. If you know some one that would like a
Banshee please contact me. The boat is in good condition with all the rigging,
sail, and trailer. The hull is white with a blue deck. I hate to sell it
but I don't have the time to sail. Well pass the word to others.
Thanks,
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
Pedro Mendonça
Dear
Sirs,
I would
like to now if it is possible to order from you or from any other organization
a complete set of building plans of the above mentioned sailing boat.
If it is, please send me details.
Regards
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
Skiracer883
Hello,
I just
took ownership of my father's Banshee, which I spent much of my youth enjoying,
and I could really benefit from a good copy of the information needed to
get me back on the water. I tried printing on a HP 612c and just could
not bring it in. If you can E-mail me, or the one listed on this E-mail,
and let me know if you could help me out, I would be very thankfull.
Thank
in advance
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
Skiracer883
Hi
Lyle,
I'd
be glad to help. Let me make sure I understand... You tried to print some
materials that I've put online? Are you trying to print the owners
manual or the powerpoint "Rigging Your Banshee" slideshow? I'd be glad
to mail a photocopy of the 4 page manual-- I'm affraid the powerpoint stuff
is "history." All I have is a scan of a printout. I lost the original presentation.
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
"Dean Eppley"
To:
BansheeGuys
Dean
and friends,
I have
a couple of questions about my Banshee...
1.
when sailing downwind in moderate to strong winds my mainsail and boom
behave wildly. Is there a way to effectively reef a Banshee mainsail? My
mainsail is raised with a halyard so I can lower it but the boom lowers
too! What do you folks do in strong winds? I'm guessing that you disconnect
the outhaul and wrap the mainsail about the mast-- then reconnect the outhaul????
2.
Also-- I have no boomyang on my rig. Can anyone give me some advice on
building one from scratch?
Thx,
Steve
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
Buesing Mark-QMB001 - Mark_Buesing-QMB001@email.mot.com
Great
Mark. Fax # is 912.681.0099 Thx, Steve
>You
must have a vang.
>Mark
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
Mack,
Thanks!
Got it and will visit West Marine in Augusta, GA to get the gear tomorrow.
Steve
>Steve,
>My
banshee has a complete vang that I bought from the sail shop with blocks,
a jamcleat and swiveliing shackles. Buy it, (pricey) and clip it on. Most
of the other guys have fancy setups.
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
Buesing Mark-QMB001
You
must have a vang. Give me your fax number and I'll sketch one out for you.
If you have to reef, you should not be out!
Mark
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
"Mack Bishop"
Steve,
you definitely need a vang; it will obviate the need to reef. You need
at least a 2 to 1 purchase from eyering on boom to eyering on base of mast.
My banshee has a complete vang that I bought from the sail shop with blocks,
a jamcleat and swiveliing shackles. Buy it, (pricey) and clip it on. Most
of the other guys have fancy setups.
Mack
-- Fleet one --
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
Karafiath Gabor CRBE
Thx
Gabor,
You
said:
>Rigging
a boom vang will probably solve your downwind sailing in heavy air and
you will enjoy the boat a lot- lot - lot more!!! The boom vang is attached
to a metal U shaped strap ( Called a "bail" ). This strap is fixed to the
mast at a position just above the deckline. The closer to the deck the
better. The other end of the vang is attached to a similar strap attached
to the boom a short distance back from the gooseneck. The mast, boom and
goosneck form a right triangle. The distance from the goosneck to the boom
bail is a little ( maybe 8 inches) more than the distance from the goosneck
to the deck. For starters you can make the boom vang with a 4 to 1 purchase
pulley system and a cleat. The cleat can be on the pulleys or on the deck.
It is better on the pulleys. In heavy air, have the vang tight. This is
easy to do while you are sailing upwind since you have the mainsheet purchase
to snug down the boom. As you let out the sheet the vang will keep the
end of the boom from rising and there will be a lot more power in the sail
and a lot less rudder control is needed. Keep your weight well aft and
you can get some thrilling rides.
>Gabor
Karafiath
To
rig my Banshee I:
1.
slip the mainsail onto the mast base (lower piece).
Hope
this answers your question re; using a halyard. It's a bit of a hassle
in a wind as the boom sits inside the boat- until the mainsail is almost
all the way up. Generally it takes TWO to ensure no mishaps.
Nope-
on the "mainsail to sell" question... Check with; Banshee Central 328 3rd
Street W. Sacramento, CA 95605 hartsails@jps.net banshee411@aol.com OR
Abbott Boats Sarnia, Ontario (519) 542-2771 abbott@ebtech.net http://www.abbottboats.com
Happy
sailing, Steve
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
"Mark Dawson" - markdawson@jps.net
Thanks
Mark,
I've
got an illustration of the 8:1 double cascade in my trusty "Sailing for
Dummies" book. I'll take it to West Marine tomorrow and get this "pulled"
together for my next excursion. Happy sailing, Steve
>Steve
>Check
out "Sailing
the Banshee in Big Air" on the Banshee web site. You need a vang and
cunningham (downhaul) in order to control the sail in heavy wind. The vang
will keep the boom from lifting when the sheet is let out.
>I
use a double cascade 8:1 vang with the controls led to both sides of the
boat. Look at the Harken and Ronstan web sites for illustrations of vang
and cunningham systems. They are not tough to make, just line, blocks and
cleats.
>Nobody
reefs the banshee sail, and the outhaul is basically two positions, the
distance from your thumb tip to the tip of your index finger with the two
at right angle to one another (6") and the distance from tip of thumb to
tip of smallest finger stretched as far apart as possible (8") measured
at the point of the sails deepest draft. The more wind the less draft,
the more waves the more draft.
>Consider
loosing the halyard all together and sewing a piece of nylon webbing across
the top of the sail sleeve. this will allow the sail to twist off more
and open the leach in strong winds. The mast gives the top of the sail
a huge lever to heel the boat and spilling some wind up there is good in
a blow.
>If
you cant figure the vang thing let me know I can take a picture of mine
and send to you.
>D.B.A.
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
"Dean Eppley"
Excellent
advice Dean!
Thanks
for the great info. I'll place an order today for the hardware. Yes. my
mast and boom have the connectors in place for the vang. Just didn't know
what to do with it... Happy sailing, Steve
>Steve,
>Regarding
reefing, we never reef our Banshee sails - if it is that heavy, we go in.
I have reefed Laser sails in our juniors program by wrapping the main once
or twice around the mast. Mast reefing would work on a Banshee too, although
you would need to tie down the clew (with a loop around the boom) since
it would no longer reach the boom track.. If you do this be sure to remove
the top batten. I don't know of any safe way to reef on the water, so decide
before you go out.
>The
stock banshee boom vang is a 2 to 1 which isn't enough. I'd recommend at
least a 4 to 1. If you do a lot of heavy air you could even go higher.
Does you boom and mast already have eyes on them to accept blocks for the
vang or do you need the measurements? For a 4 -1 get a small double block
with a becket (like a Harken 227 Micro Block or Harken 085 Bullet Block)
for the mast and a plain double block (like a Harken 226 Micro Block or
084 Bullet Block) for the boom. Place a cam cleat in a convenient location
(on the thwart if you don't have a traveler, or on the bulkhead behind
the mast. If you do this, leave enough line that you can reach it from
your normal sailing position (which in heavy air down wind is hiked out
and back).
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
"Abbott Boats Inc."
Dear
Mr. Bonham; Thank you for your inquiry. We have Banshee mast collars for
$6.50 Cnd. plus shipping and handling. You can pay by mastercard - fax
to the number below the credit card number, expiry date and authorized
card holder name. If you have any questions, please contact this office.
Thank
you, Alona
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
"Dean Eppley"
Steve,
Glad
I could help. If you find the 4 to 1 isn't enough, you can double it to
8-1 with a cascade. Just add one more single block to the boom and another
eye to the mast. My poor attempt at a drawing is attached. Be sure to use
stainless steel rivets to connect the eye to the mast.
Have
fun! Dean
Attachment
converted: Steve's Mac:vang.bmp (BMPf/ogle) (0004F209)
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
"Tom Goodwin" - tgoodwin@macnexus.org
Steve.
i'll
try to tackle the questions. Mebbe someone has already done it ?
Q#1...no
we don't wrap the sail around the mast. our sails are cut to be used w/o
reefing. we do a little out-haul and a little cunningham...that's it. anyway
the battens really won't let you do too much. We sometimes wrap for the
kids around the docks when the kids are 100 pounds. not for regular sailing.
When it blows too much we either go-for-it or go home. There is an alternative
sail that works fair/middling that has the battens running vertically,
that way it can be 'reefed' to the smallest size. (you'd need a looonnng
out-haul/reef line) We don't have a sail like that here in our fleet of
thirty boats however.
q#2
about the vang? well you'd better look at any other small boat to get a
visual idea. i use a 'waterfall' type and it doesn't help one bit. You're
probably best to just use a double block assembly and forget some tricky
other way.
signed
tom , fleet #1 measurer.
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
"Dean Eppley"
Dean
(and friends),
Poor
attempt my butt! Your illustration was great. My 4:1 Vang kit should arrive
today or tomorrow. I did order an extra double and single block so I very
well may step up to an 8:1. The responses to my question have been outstanding.
I've gotten about ten very detailed and quite helpful replies regarding
using/designing a vang, alternatives, and reefing the Banshee mainsail.
What a wealth of knowledge we have here. The Banshee community is alive
and well. I'm quite jealous of the group you Folsom Lake folks have cultivated.
Must be a lot of fun! I plan to take a few photos next time out. I'll post
the url when they are on-line.
Thanks
again (and MANY thanks to you other responders!),
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
Geo2geo
Geo,
I got
quite a few replies to my question. Most said you don't reef a Banshee
mainsail. Just use the vang 4:1, 8:1, or 16:1... and When it get too rough
go in. A couple said they have reefed their mainsail by wrapping the mainsail
about the mast. Requires doing so prior to sailing and requires removal
of the uppermost batten. I suspect that it would be possible to lower a
portion of the mainsail and fold it atop the boom (true reefing) IF one
used a boom hoist running from the end of the boom to the top of ther mast
and down to a cleat.
Good
luck and happy sailing, Steve
>i
have three banshees
------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 20 Mar 2000
Steve:
You're more than welcome! I got the impression you intend to use the jc
strap as a substitute for a vang. This is to let you know the two have
entirely different functions and one will not substitute for the other!
If I've misunderstood, don't bother reading any farther. A vang keeps your
boom positioned horizontally when you ease the sail (i.e., when reaching
and running). You will need at least 4:1 purchase and 8:1 is even better,
given the size of the Banshee mainsail. It should also be double-ended
you can adjust the vang while hiking from either side of the boat. Incidentally,
it's easy to make a 4:1 system into an 8:1 system. If you want another
sketch, let me know. The jc strap, on the other hand, is used only in light
air, and functions to keep the boom to leeward even when you heel the boat
to windward (which you should do going downwind in very light air). The
jc strap is unnecessary and shouldn't be used unless you're sailing in
very light air (or believe you'll encounter light air at some time during
a race).
[Mike
has a page entitled "Rigging
Your Banshee" on the Nat'l page site. It has some great tips on using
a vang, J-C Strap, bailers, daggerboard gasket, hiking straps, and a tiller
"preventer."]
At
09:14 AM 3/20/00 -0400, you wrote:
>Mike,
>Thanks
so much for taking the time to explain and illustrate the JC-Strap. I got
your drawings this weekend and TRUELY a picture is worth a thousand words...
On-line friends who go to such lengths are worth a lot more!
>I've
ordered a 4:1 Vang and will give it a shot first -- if that is as useless
as a few folks have told me I'll try the JC-Strap. I may even try to rig
up a combo Vang/JC-Strap contraption. I really like the idea of the boom
"hoist" [also called a top lift of boom lift] and will implement that on
my next sail.
>Thanks
again,
------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 11 Apr 2000
can
anyone direct me to someone that has a new or used sail for sale
Brian
Hughes
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
"J. Bob Crotts"
I am
looking for a sail as my sail was stolen. Could someone point me in the
right direction to replace my sail , I do recreational sailng
Thanks
Bob
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
"Bill Wright"
Is
there an active Banshee racing class. I have a boat that's been in
storage for years, and might race it if there was a fleet within a reasonable
distance of southeast Michigan.
------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 07 May 2000
Found
your rigging site today, and saw a lot of informative stuff. I was wondering
if you had anything in the way of templates for the daggerboard or rudder?
I'm without a set and could really use some ideas for making one. Thanks.
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
TRUDYCONNERS
I am
sorry to ask you this, but I have just acquired a banshee sailboat and
need to know how to rig it correctly. Since I have obviously visited your
web site, for some reason I can't seem to print your documents off the
Internet. Could you please email me the documents so that I can print them.
I am also in need of some replacement parts if you know of any information
about where I might get them from could you please forward that information
also. New sailor.
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
TRUDYCONNERS
Hi
Trudy,
Try
this Rigging
Your Banshee spot-- (my online html document) or
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
BansheeGuys
Hey
Banshee Sailors,
Just
finished uploading my new and revised "Rigging
Your Banshee" pages. Comments, suggestions welcome.
Steve
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
TRUDYCONNERS
Steve,
Thank
you for helping me get to your sight so that I could print out all the
rigging information for my Sailboat. The person that I purchased it from
did not know how to rig it right and I would like to learn to appropriate
way. I just picked up by boat today and am excited to get the information
and get out in the yard to practice rigging it.
Thanks
again. Trudy
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
TRUDYCONNERS
Trudy,
You
are welcome. Glad I could help. Where are you going to go sailing with
your new (to you) Banshee? If you have any trouble with the instructions
let me know-- Steve
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
TRUDYCONNERS
I didn't
have any problems rigging the boat. I plan to sail the boat on the lake
6 minutes from my home, Lake Thunderbird in Oklahoma.
Thanks
again, Trudy
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
"Mike Sullivan"
Hi
Mike,
In
my "Rigging
Your Banshee" pages I mention the weight and lenghts and on my main
Banshee page there are links to places to purchase this stuff on-line.
Good luck, Steve
>Thanks
for the reply! The info is great. I am still in the process of getting
her ready to sail. I had to replace the teak, Wow that stuff is expensive!
Everything seems functional. I am a little worried about the hull taking
so much sun over the years. Hopefully this summer I will get her on the
water.
>I
do have one question: What type of rope should I use for the lines. I will
figure out the sizes but I don't know what material to use or where to
get it.
>Again
thanks for the info, you will really help me a bunch when the time comes
to put it all back together.
>--Mike
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
"BRYAN A. BENTZ"
I put
a pointer to the rigging page(s) on the main Banshee page. Bryan
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
RUSSGROVE
Hi,
I just found your web site after some searching. I recently found a Banshee
and am excited but no nothing about sailing. Your information is great
since I have had to do lots of repair and the rigging was not clear. Thanks
for providing this essential information.
Russ
Grove
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
RUSSGROVE
Glad
the banshee stuff was useful Russ, Where do you sail? BTW, there is a great
book for beginning sailors that you may find useful-- _Sailing for Dummies_.
It covers dingies to crewed boats. Well worth the $20. I've been sailed
for 7 years now and read several boks--- it's the best one out there.
Best
of luck with your Banshee, Steve
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
Tyler Colt
Steve,
Just
went through your direction on rigging banshees. Want to thank you for
a great job and welcome resource. My experience was been with BeetleCats
(old wooden gaff rigged dinghy's of Cape Cod) and Coronado's mostly. Recently
got my hands on Banshee and now can double check a few things I've been
doing against your directions. Great job! - Thanks. Tyler
S.
Tyler Colt
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
Tyler Colt
Hey
Tyler,
Thanks
for your comments. Sorry to reply so late-- been sailing on Roanoake Sound
on the outer banks of NC. A wonderful place to sail the banshee if you
can get there.
Best
of luck with your bird. Steve
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
Byeager1945
Hey
Bill,
Glad
that you found the pages useful. Where do you sail? And are you aware of
the other Banshee websites- Brian's and the Folsom lake group? Steve
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
Byeager1945
Hi
Steve,
Yes,
I am aware of the other Banshee Websites. They were the first sites I found
when I first bought the boat. It is great to read about the adventures
of others. I sail mostly on state park lakes here in central Pa. and also
on Seneca Lake in New York State. I'm not into racing, I just like to put
up the sail, lay back, and go where the wind takes me. It is very relaxing
for me. Thanks for you interest.
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
Byeager1945
Steve,
It was only about 2.5 miles across - round trip of 5 miles. For me, it
was a great experience. I gained some confidence. Next year, I hope to
sail "down" the lake towards Watkins Glen and back. Maybe double my distance.
Thanks
for your interest. Bill
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
"Magnus Emilsson"
Dear
Steve,
Thank
you for your well done rigging guide for the Banshee. It has been a big
help. A few weeks ago I picked-up a Banshee with two sails (original white
and rainbow color) and trailer for a reasonable price. It needs a little
work, but is mostly serviceable. I made a new centerboard gasket out of
and old motorcycle innertube, like you mentioned. My transom is a little
weak, but will probably last at least a few more seasons. My boom had been
repaired by a previous owner reasonably well, but I made it a little better
by adding a washer to the pin that goes into the center of the boom, to
handle the thrust load. I will definitely add a "boom lift line" as you
have shown. To keep the rudder from falling out, I drilled a hole in the
bottom rudder gudgeon pin for a hair-pin-clip, and put a lanyard on it.
Right now all I need to sail are some plugs
Thanks
again.
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
"Magnus Emilsson"
Hi
Magnus,
You
are quite welcome-- glad it was helpful. That's a good idea on the rudder.
I'll check that possibily on my set-up.
Happy
sailing, Steve
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
JayL271
Steve:
Thanks for the tips. I just bought a 10 year-old yellow banshee. Much to
my surprise, there was no halyard, just a small clip at the top of the
mast for the grommet. Thanks to your page, it looks like an easy fix for
this novice sailer.
Happy
Sailing,
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
"Michael Mairs"
I just
bought a Banshee. 2 sails. how many stays, how long? per sail
thanks,
mike mairs
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
"Michael Mairs"
Mike,
To
my knowledge no one is staying their mast-- I've been curious myself as
to if anyone is using a jib or genoa on a Banshee. So far, I have not found
anyone that is. Did you try contacting the guys at Lake Folsom, California?
or Brian Bentz at MIT? Steve
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
"Michael Mairs"
Mike,
Try
this webpage: Banshee
Sailplan. It has an illustration of sail with 4 batten pockets. Lengths
are 36", 36", 30" and 18" I'm not sure what you mean by "taper"-- but hopefully
this page and the other associated pages in the Banshee Racing rulebook
will help.
Steve
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
"mike"
Mike,
You're
welcome. I didn't know that those things were called stays-- Learn some
everyday, eh? Best of luck with your Banshee. Steve
>Thanks
so much.
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
"mike"
Thanks
so much. in my collar they are stays, of course in sails they are battens.
thanks for your patience, things are coming together nicely.
mike
mairs
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
Smocinlizard
Hey
Randy,
Glad
you found the pages useful. Where are you going to sail your Banshee? Breezy
days, Steve
>Steve,
I really appreciate your great rigging instructions for the Banshee. I've
had mine I bought mine from a guy that raced them about ten years ago.
I only sailed it a few times then stored it for all these years. Well this
weekend I'm going to give it another shot. Your rigging instructions were
great. Thanks.
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
RAugur
I am
trying to gather information as to what the worth is of a Banshee in good
operating condition is, including a trailer.
Thank
you for your help, R. Augur
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
RAugur
R,
I paid
$500 for boat and trailer (includeds sails, daggerboard, etc.) when mine
was already 15 years old back around 1992. It has been well worth the hours
of fun it has provided. Steve
>I
am trying to gather information as to what the worth is of a Banshee in
good operating condition is, including a trailer. Thank you for your help,
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
CHNix
Steve:
About thee years ago I took a sailing class and really enjoyed sailing.
I am now looking at buying a boat. In the class, I sailed a Butterfly.
I have been looking at Sunfish but have come across a Banshee that is in
good shape. Since I am a novice can you tell me which boat may be more
appropriate for me. I live in north Georgia (Rome) and will be sailing
on local lakes and along the Gulf. Since you also live in Georgia, can
you tell me which months we usually have adequate wind to enjoy the sport?
Any comparrisons that you can give between the two boats is apprciated.
Chuck
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
CHNix
Hi
Chuck,
Memories...
I learned to sail in a Sunfish. Good little boat. Not as fast as a Banshee.
Can't take many folks with you. But it is a sturdy boat- and the company
)Vanguard) still exists and will be there for parts, etc.
My
Comparison: Some of these are specs some are my personal ratings (personal
ratings [on a 10 point scale- with 10 ideal] marked with *).
I'm
not into racing tho I'd buy a Banshee over a Sunfish myself, unless it
was a NEW Sunfish for $300 or such a great deal. I paid $500 for my Banshee
and trailer 8 years ago and it has been worth 10 times that in joy.
Best
of luck, Steve
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
RAugur
Hi
Steve~
Thanks
for responding to my previous question regarding the Banshee. I noticed
that your craft appears to have a retractable rudder, the one I am looking
at does not. Was this an option or did you modify the rudder yourself?
Thanks
Again, R. Augur
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
RAugur
Hi
R,
It's
the way it came with my used Banshee. I'm not sure if it was an original
piece or not-- it seems to be the same styling and type of wood (mahogany)
of the dagger board so I think it is original.
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
"Andrew Nye"
Your
rigging gide has been a wonderfull help for small ideas. For a long time
I have been wanting to see somthing like this ... I picked up my banshee
in a very sad state from the trading post .. after a few weekends work
I have a sailing model ... minus a good paint job (yet!) I noticed
that you pull the sail up and down via a halyard .. do you find that it
damages that sail in anyway having to chaff against the mast at all ?
i also noticed in your photos a number of jam cleats on the side bulkheads
(seats) what are these used for ? My rudder
was in a realy sad state one of the previous owners had attempted to fix
the rudder with fibregalss but didnt sad it and ended up galssing over
dirst and peeling varnish !!! ugh . To top it off he put it back on round
the wrong way!!! sharp trailing edge became the leading edge!!! anyway
i sanded and regalssed it and its as good as new ! so thats a bonus ..
however having owned a hobby cat for many years i rigged up a system on
the tiller that i could raise and lower the rudder by a pully system ...
next time you see a hobby cat go and have a look its as easy as pie to
set up. Also I am desperate to know the length of the boom-lift
that you used, my back yard is very constrictive and makes setting up the
boat to work it out virtually impossible. did you use two pack paint to
paint the bottom or redo the gelcoat? Thank you for your wonderfull
ideas .. your efforts are a bonus to the Banshee owners out there ..
By the way im living in Australia... wonder how many were imported to australia
.. i wouldnt think too many.. any how must go .. keep up the
good work!!!
Andrew
Nye
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
"Andrew Nye"
Hi
Andrew,
Glad
you found it useful. Sounds like you'd had a challenge.
Halyard--
there is some minor wear on the sleeve particularly where the nuts are
on the lower mast. Nothing that concerns me. I think it will last another
20 years! The jam cleats-- I have no idea... I used to think that I could
put up a small jib but have found nobody that has tried this. Then I thought
maybe a couple of trapeze wires??? I've decided that it must just be for
securing to dock.. If you find out otherwise let me know. Hobie! Cool.
I just purchased a 1984 Hobie18 last weekend. I'm taking it out this weekend.
I'm sure there will be a little adjustment required!
Boom
Lift-- measures 19 feet 4 inches including the clips (you'll have to do
the metric conversion-- sorry) Paint-- yes. A two pack. Used a gallon +
hardner. Got about 5 coats(!) on it before it became unusable. Took about
3 hours. I wish now I'd spent more time sanding and shaping. The glass
drip lines and uneven countours are MUCH more prominent after the paint
dries. Best of luck! Steve
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
"Andrew Nye"
Steve
Thank
you for your reply!! Most helpfull!! When I read your letter in regard
to the idea of putting up at jib, i have to admit that I thought of doing
the same thing .... for a while. That was until I was sailing with my younger
brother out in the bay when .. opps im in the middle of a race of these
long, fixed keeled MASSIVE single handers from RQYS ( my local squadron)
dont ask me what they are because i dont remember they had a main and jib
up sailing along nice and fast, then I come tearing through the lot!!!
Shouts
of amasement from all around!! I think that half the fright these ppl had
was the sight of the banshee ( this was before its first coat of paint
and some basic sanding back to the original gelcoat. UGY sight against
these polished wood expensive things ) Any way making sure I didnt get
in their wind and way I was beating them up to the bouy and after they
put up their kites ... no chance. So im sticking with the main .. its massive
anyway.
As
for the trapeeze .... mmm my experience with them is quite large and i
would LOVE to put one on the banshee since the kick strap is useless (
im 6'5 and long legs are a pain ). However a unstayed mast ... esp one
thats designed to flex to flatten the sail im not to sure it would take
it. as long as i hang onto the main sheet and the extention tiller my length
is fine any how. What I also did was make a loop of rope about 1.5 meters
long (metric opps) put a loop one one end that fits around the mast and
a smaller loop at the end. This serves as a "handle" for my younger brother
to hang onto. Though 1.5 meters might be a bit long, im sure that you can
with a bit of experimentation get the right length. It makes his ride more
enjoyable and he acts as live ballast so I dont need a trapeeze.
I was
looking at your sketch [see msg above] and (after thinking how well done
it was!) thought that you can fasten your tiller in a much easier way,
ill see if i can get you a picture for you. You use this piece of metal
that you buy from a sailing shop. Ill find out what they are called. its
only about an inch long and springy ill include a sketch (not as good as
yours ) on how it works. Saves a heap of time and effort and NEVER wears
out or can get lost. Costs about a buck too. How it works is when you put
the rudder on the metal bends down flat as the pegs move past. once past
it springs up. the rudder is going nowhere fast. To take it off with your
finger you push the metal flat and take off the rudder EASY!!! The thing
is made form stainless steel so no probs!
Thank
you once again for your speedy reply!!
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
CHNix
Steve:
When you sail along the beach, how do you put in? Do you use one of the
two wheel carts? If so, what do you recommend? I will be putting in by
myself?
Thanks,
Chuck Nix
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
CHNix
Hi
Chuck,
I do
not sail along the beach in my Banshee. I sail in freshwatere lakes and
in the intercoastal waterway inside Hilton Head island where I launch via
a boat ramp. I've heard of people launching a Banshee in the surf tho.
I'd think it a bit risky-- depending upon wave size and frequency. I understand
that to accomplish a surf launch you should have the daggerboard and rudder
up and as soon as a wave comes ashore you race into the surf perdendicular
to the waves. I've not been willing to try this as I'm fearful of the damage
the boat (and me!) would sustain if it broached with mast in place. I've
put enough time in in figerglass repairs already! You might want to ask
one of the guys who sail in California- there are some in the SF Bay area.
I'm CCing this to Dean Epply from Folsom Lake Fleet One. He may have some
experience in this. [Dean pls let me know what you think]
Good
luck, Steve
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
Smocinlizard
Hello,
I don't
know if you remember me, but my name is Randy and I e-mailed you after
having used your rigging istructions to get my Banshee up and running again.
I had a great time but I capsized my boat several times. Not a problem.
I just used the centerboard and pulled it back up. I broke the rudder extention
handle off and lost it in the water. Do you have any suggestions as to
where I can find a replacement?
Let
me know. Randy
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
Smocinlizard
Hi
Randy,
Glad
you had a good time. Half the fun of having a Banshee is righting her.
Abott boats (Canada) is a pretty good source for Banshee parts. For this
part however you may be able to get something similar in several places.
You may be able to buy a similar METAL tiller extenstion arm for instance
at a Laser supplier on the web. >www.abbottboats.com
>Abbott Boats Inc. >1458 London Road >Sarnia, Ontario >N7S 1P7 >Canada
>Pho: (519) 542 - 2771 >Fax: (519) 542 - 2324
Good
luck Randy, Steve
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
"Rodney Phillips"
Where
do you tie the downhaul to or how is it rigged? Wouldn't the pulling
of the saild using a downhaul cause unecessary wear and tear to the sail?
Where do I hook the downhaul to?
Rod
Phillips
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
"Rodney Phillips"
Hi
Rod,
[Steve
Kornblau has a really great idea for a Banshee
downhaul/cunningham]
Good
luck, Steve
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
Byeager1945
Thanks
again for the Banshee Rigging Instructions. I utilized them this summer
on Seneca Lake in New York state. I was able to sale across the lake and
back this year. This has been my goal for three years and I accomplished
it on the first day of sailing this year. I was much more secure with the
rigging this year than in the past.
Thanks
again. Bill Yeager
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
CHNix
Hi
Chuck,
Hope
this helps.
>Steve:
------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 30 Oct 2000
Hello!
I have an 1981 banshee. Got it last year with very little rigging information.
I found these tips very useful. I owned a Venture 25 for eight years several
years ago. I like the topping lift idea (line the holds the boon in back)
very much. I never thought about it on this boat, but it is very handy.
My Banshee needed the transom redone. Over half was gone to dry rot. I
dug it all out and replaced it with new wood this year. Turned out pretty
good. I've only had the boat out 5 times so I'm still learning a lot about
the best way to rig it. Raising and lowering the main has been the biggest
challenge. The tips on the sail outhaul was great too. I like the detail
you gave on the size and length of the lines. All very helpful information.
I just wish it wasn't October here in central Illinois and I could get
it out a few more times this year. It's almost time to be thinking about
putting it in its winter home for the next 5-6 months. Bummer I know! Thank
you so much for the detailed information. It is incredible to find. Let
me know if there are any questions you have that I might be able to answer
for you.
Thanks
again!
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
Kent Lowry
Hey
Kent,
Glad
the pages were of assistance. Buy a wetsuit guy. and booties and a hood.
I sail all year. Yeah-- I know the weather IS different here but you may
have a few more sails during the year with this gear. I've found full wetsuits
on ebay for $40. Something to think about.
Best
to you, Steve
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
"The Phillips Family"
How
can you conveniently remove the mainsail from the outhaul grommet when
you are finished sailing so that the mainsail is luffing in the wind to
keep things safe and to keep the boom from whipping around and cracking
you in the head.
Rod
Phillips
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
"The Phillips Family"
I have
a open style banshee sail as you do. How can I use the boom life line to
lower the sail? Does the boom life line have some sort of pulley system?
Or if I have the open style top on the sail do I need to use a halyard
to lower the sail? The folks at Folsom Lake where I sail with the banshee
fleet dont use a halyard but they let the sail loose from the outhaul and
let it flap in the breeze till they get their banshee on a trailer and
out of the lake and onto a parking lot where they proceed to disassemble
the boat.
Rod
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
"The Phillips Family"
The
boom lift line is specifically for keeping the boom OUT of the boat when
you do lower the mainsail with a halyard. There are no pulleys involved.
See attached image [boomlift.jpg]
for use.
Happy
sailing Rod!
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
CapeCodKD
Hi
- We are family of six (kids 1, 5,9,10) living on Cape Cod and just acquired
a 1980 Banshee in need of some work and a sail. With great websites like
yours for guidance I think we can manage the repairs, but I priced a new
sail at Supersailmakers.com at $503.! So we are writing for help in obtaining
a used one. Any suggestions or advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank
you for a fantastic website - rigging the boat for its first sail is a
great goal for us to shoot for!
Thanks,
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
CapeCodKD
Hi
Davis,
Thanks
for your comments. Glad the pages were useful to you. $$503!? Sounds high
to me since I only paid $500 for my 1974 boat and trailer when I bought
it used in 1991 and my sail was then in good shape. Now I have a few patches
made at a couple of canvas repair businesses. If your sail is still decent
you might go that route for a while. I've had 2 rips (a 6" tear and a batten
pocket) repaired for less than $70. I'd look around for other bids-- there
are many places avaliable on the web. Look at the ads in Sailing or Sail
magazines for urls. Finding a used Banshee sail for sale is a long shot
I'm affraid. But you could try Abbot Boats. Their url is on my Banshee
webpage.
Best
of luck, Steve
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
"Chuck Nix"
The
masthead sheave on my Banshee sailboat has deteriorated and needs replacing.
I cannot locate one in the West Marine Catalog. Do you know where
I might find a replacement?
Thanks,
Chuck
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
"Chuck Nix"
Hi
Chuck,
Hmmmm...
I'm not sure what you mean by a masthead sheave. Can you describe it's
location? Steve
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
"Chuck Nix"
>Steve,
Good
luck, Steve
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
"Byrnel E Graham"
my
first sailing experience was in an invitation, and since then i have taken
lessons on a wayfarer. what is the main difference between a banshee
and a wayfarer, other than the single sail??? (i am thinking of buying
one very soon) thank you in advance for your help!!!
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
"Byrnel E Graham"
Hi
Brynel,
Compare
info on these two sites. WAYFARER http://www.uswayfarer.org/
BANSHEE Banshee
Looks to me (at a glance that: the Wayfarer is a wood/fiberglass boat 16'
long x 6' beam (wide) and they seem to be expensive and quite a good boat
but maybe complex for a novice (with Main, jib and spinnakers all possible).
The Wayfarer also seems to be a bit pricy in comparison. Used boats going
for $2k+. the Banshee is a fiberglass boat that is 13' long and has a 5'
beam. Mainsail only. Used boat when you can find them go for about $500.
They quit making this boat in early 80s by the way so it is hard to find
parts. Something to consider. But it is a joy to sail... and quite easy
to learn to sail.
Good
luck, Steve
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
"richard schockner"
Just
recently purchased a dinghy, unknown make, which is very similar to a banshee.The
picture in the brochure is very, very close to my boat, but, my boat is
virtually impossible to cartop. takes 4 adults to move her. I noticed
that you trailer your boat and was wondering what size, type, manufacturer
you recommend? any suggestions for my $40 boat would be appreciated.
Wondering.... my unstayed, raked mast is wood, boom is wood. The mast has
an open ended fitting about 10 ' up and a pair of holes in the bow ( missing
fitting i guess) for a forestay? guide for halyard? Do you know of any
links not on this page? Many thanks in advance for any and all thoughts.
-rick
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
"richard schockner"
Hmmm.
Interesting!
I am curious about what type of boat you've found. Wood mast (raked) &
boom- sounds like perhaps a older Wayfarer? There is a website for these
boats at: www.wayfarer.com. This page has links to other pages. Check your
favorite search engine for more. They look a lot like a Banshee but are
longer (16' compared to 13'), wider (6' to 5'), and heavier. Sounds like
you may have one of the older boats that were mostly constructed of wood.
You may have a "treasure in progress" on your hands! Looks like you can
raise a LOT of sailarea on a Wayfarer. Regarding a trailer- I have a "Dilly"
and I believe it is the smallest one they make (appox 14'). I didn't find
a website for them - but any Marine business should have a catalog. My
trailer is very light (about 250 pounds) and has been easy to maintain--
although I sail mostly in fresh water. It has 13" wheels. I have seen similar
used trailers for sale in newspapers and on the web for $100-500 depending
on condition. A new one will run you over $1200 most likely. On the "mast/halyard
track" question... you've got me there. I'm pretty sure that Wayfarer's
have a forestay tho. Maybe the website above will clarify. Let me know
if you track down more details on your boat. Sounds like you are in for
a lot of fun.
Best
of luck, Steve
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
"Kevin I. Coats"
I wish
to sell my 1981 Banshee but am uncertain as to a selling price. Despite
its' years, the boat is in mint condition as well as her rigging and sail.
I want to ask a fair price yet do not want to give it away. Any suggestions
would be most appreciated.
Thanks!
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
"Kevin I. Coats"
Hi
Kevin, Wow. Good question. I saw one go for over $800 on eBay last year--
without a trailer. I purchased my 1974 Banshee (with a trailer) in 1991
for $500. It needed some work - several significant cracks in the hull
and impending transom work. Sad to say your boat might be worth MORE in
pieces! Abbot boats sells a new Banshee daggerboard for $200 or so. A rudder/tiller
for 175. A sail for $300. If I was you-- I would try to see the package
on eBay for the longest period I could-- and advertise to every Banshee
and sailing page on the web. They are great little boats. I would gladly
pay $1000 for mine knowing what I know now; play up the advantages in your
ad: 20 minutes to rig Light weight; 130 pounds Fast - planes in 12 knot
breeze Easy to sail Unsinkable self-bailing after a capsize a 75 pound
boy ot girls can right the boat after capsize.
Good
luck, Steve
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
"richard schockner"
Steve,
thanks for the response. L.O.A.- is that the measurement from the bow to
stern in a straight line or stern to bow along the hull? Our boat is about
12 X 5, so is a little smaller than a Banshee. 20' mast wooden, boom -pair
of 2 x 4's. Rigging looks identical to Banshee, deck and cockpit look the
same. Fiberglass over ply on transom. 2 drains. Your site was the first
that i've found even close. Would I be correct in assuming that over the
years many classes of dinghy have come and gone? Steve if know any these
answers, thanks for all your help.-rick
>Rick,
LOA is "length over all" -- a straight line measurement along the longest
axis. 12' - Not a Wayfarer then... Yes, there are certainly LOTS of classes
of dinghys-- and of course many folks years ago just made their own from
Popular Mechanics drawings and such. You may have just such a boat. Steve
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
"Kevin I. Coats"
Steve,
Thanks for responding to my question about the Banshee. Because she is
in such great shape, including sail, I was thinking about $1000 which you
validated as well. You gave some great tips on features I should emphasize.
Thanks again for your help. It's much appreciated.
Sincerely,
Kevin Coats
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
"Chuck Nix"
Hey
Steve:
I have
a question about the mast on my Banshee. The mast on my boat has
two notches on the bottom that a bolt in the bottom of the hole that recives
the mast is suppose to fit. That bolt passes through a strip of metal
(sleeve) that is should line the bottom of the hole. This metal sleeve
is bent and does not allow the mast to fit onto the bolt. The strip
cannot be pryed back into place. I can tie the mast off to an eye
on the deck and minimize its rotation. Do
you think I should go to the effort of trying to remove the strip and bend
it back into place? I don't know how much work might be involved.
It may be considerable. But I am a little worried about the mast
not resting properly on the bolt and the bottom of the mast not having
the sleeve around it.
Any
ideas? Chuck
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
"Chuck Nix"
Hi
Chuck,
Gee,
I never knew I was supposed to have a sleeve over that bolt! :-)
[See
illustrations of mast step pin area (top
- side
- "big
picture" ]
Good
luck! Steve
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
"Chuck Nix"
Were
you able to reach through the access hole to remove the bolt and replace
it?
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
"Chuck Nix"
In
a word-- Yes... but it was not easy. I'm 5'6", 140 and still it was hard
to get my arm inside to the mast well while still seeing what was happening.
It was done mostly by "braille." There were large fender washers on each
side that are contoured to the shape of the mast well column. When you
remove the bolt and associated pieces be sure to check the area for fractures.
My boat did have some cracks radiating from the aft bolt hole. I reglassed
it- but it was a messy job.
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
sbonham
Dear
Steve,
Recently
I bought a Banshee from someone who had only had it out a few times and
decided to buy a boat he could get more use out of. I have never sailed
on a banshee, and in fact I haven't been sailing in about 15 years or so.
I learned how to sail on an El Toro. I have made a copy of your rigging
directions, and slowly I am making sense of them. However, I don't think
the previous owner had the right kind of lines. For the halyard I think
the line I have is ok, but he had a very coarse rope with a lot of hair?
on it for the mainsheet. I think I should get a new one, and I'm not sure
where to find it, or how much (length) to buy, or what it would cost. Also,
there is no outhaul or downhaul, and I'm pretty sure there is no boom vang.
Do you know if there are any Banshee owners/sailors in Lake County, CA?
I'm hoping I could find someone who could help me out so I could get out
on the lake. I live at Clear Lake, California. I'm eager, and frustrated.
Thanks in advance for any help you can give me.
Thanks,
Fran Eichler
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
"Fran E. Eichler"
Hi
Fran,
I'm
CCing this reply to the Banshee Fleet One group in California. I'll bet
someone there would be glad to help. Maybe someone is in (or knows someone)
in the Lake County area. Sounds like your mainsheet is fried! My mainsheet
is 25 feet long and is a soft, pliable braided 5/8" line. You want something
that will not kink-- so stay away from the lines that appear to be "stiff."
You can get the parts (blocks) you need for a boomyang via the web or in
a West Marine store.
Best
of luck, Steve
------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 17 Jun 2001
Steve
Bonham, I really enjoyed your rigging photos. I still do it by memory,
and I have to start over again at times. I have saved your site and It
is fun viewing. Looks like a lot of work went into this. My father and
I sailed our two Banshee's for years. He died in 1996 and I am now the
proud owner of both of them. He was good with his hands and glue, I am
not. Since we live in Tucson, I am my own repair shop. My boats are about
as old as yours and also need new wood and one needs a new rudder. If you
have any ideas or suggestions, please tell me. I want to get them both
sailing again. Tucson is in the desert, but we have several lakes a few
hours away and the Sea of Cortez about 3 hours away in Mexico. There are
few things I like more than sailing a Banshee in the ocean for that hour
or so between an increase in the wind and the larger waves. Glad to hear
you still enjoying yours and thanks for the neat photos and details.
Tomas
Thomas G Hippert
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
"Thomas G. Hippert, P.C."
Hi
Tomas,
Glad
you found the Banshee info useful. Yeah, it took a few hours to get it
all together, but it was fun. Sorry to hear about the loss of your Dad.
That is nice that you were able to sail with him though. Good memories
I'm sure.... must have been a lot of fun. I too was not too good with repairs
initially either. Now, I consider myself pretty adept. You need to consider
replacing your wood? Are you speaking of your transom?- the rear wall of
your Banshee? If so, I can provide advice there. As for the rudder, what
shape is it in? Rebuilding it (replacing the wood pieces) could be difficult
but do-able task. Tell me more about the condition of each of these areas.
Steve
------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 20 Jun 2001
I can't
thank you enough for your astonishingly complete webpage on rigging the
Banshee. It may interest you to know that my Banshee is a result of an
impulse to learn to sail on a one-man sailboat. It was listed for sale
in the classifieds and I bit. When I got the boat home, I pawed through
the basket of ropes, pulleys, screws and geegaws, then raised the mast
and affixed the boom, at which point I realized I hadn't a clue how to
even begin assembling the running rigging. Your enormous contribution was
exactly what I needed. No well gasket was included and there are a few
repairs to make, as well, so I must also thank you for linking me to Abbott
Boats. How odd it is that the Banshee was designed here in the San Francisco
Bay area, but I must shop for parts up in Canada. The world is, indeed,
getting smaller every day. Wel thanks again. I hope you won't mind if bother
you again when I find myself in over my head (No pun intended!).
Bud
Kremer San Jose, CA
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
bkremer
Hey
Bud,
Glad
you found the pages useful. Best of luck with your Banshee. Are you aware
of the Banshee "Fleet One" group in the Sacramento area?
Steve
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
Sw357pmg
Hi
Steve
My
name is Tom Peloquin. I was given a Banshee sailboat for free. It needs
a good cleaning, but that isn't the real problem. The big problem is the
transom is rotted out. Is this a common problem on the Banshee? If so what
is the most common method of repair. So far I have chiseled out the old
transom. I plan on cutting and gluing in a new transom using polyester
resin or epoxy resin. Which is best? I really look forward to trying my
new boat. It looks like it will be as fast boat
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
Sw357pmg
Hi
Tom,
Wow.
Nice way to get a Banshee-- even if it needs work! Congratulations on necoming
a new banshee skipper. You are in for some fun. It is a fast boat and QUITE
a kick in 12-15 knot winds! Rotten transoms on old Banshee are quite common.
I totally replaced mine... cut of the whole stern with a circular saw--
but it was a hellacious job and I don't think I'd do that radical a repair
again. It took over a month- working most every night and weekends. The
folks I've talked with in the Banshee sailing community pretty much agree
that a wiser choice involves hollowing out the old transom (leaving fore
and aft fiberglass walls intact) and filling with as strong and as light
a filler as you can find. Here is some more advice from Doctor Rot:
>The
Rot Doctor
Good
luck, Steve
------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 20 Jun 2001
I had
found the Sacramento group on the web, but hadn't made contact. Until I
take the first water along the keel I won't consider myself a sailor. The
help you'''ve provided will expedite that day substantially. Thanks. BK
P.S.
I am not surprised that you hale from someplace with Excellence in Teaching
involved.
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
"Aimar & Cindy Damon"
Thanks
for a great reference for lasers, Force 5's as well as Banshees
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
"Aimar & Cindy Damon"
Oh?
That's good news. I didn't know. They are similar boats? Steve
>Thanks
for a great reference for lasers, Force 5's as well as Banshees
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
Sw357pmg
Hi
Steve
Tom
Peloquin again. I found a rip in the sail that came with my boat. (nothing
is truly free) My question is, where can I get a new sail and how much
can I expect to pay. The rip is at the end of one of the batten slots.
Maybe I can still use or fix it. The good news is I got the old plywood
all chiseled out and the top side is clean. The foam flotation seems to
be full of water I'm going to try and rig some ventilation through the
access ring. I can get good air flow while the transom is out. I'll try
to get some pictures of my progress if you want to post them on your sight.
They might come in handy for other Banshee owners. Thanks for any help
you can give me
Tom
Peloquin
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
Sw357pmg
Hey
Tom,
That
was quick! Sounds like you are making great progress. I had concerns about
the foam flotation on my Banshee too. I ended up wedging swimming pool
noodles (the solid [no hole] type) into the side cells. Probably close
to 3 per side. Seems to have helped enormously. On the sail question- I'm
not sure of a source for new sails- I think that the Banshee Fleet One
guys (Sacramento, CA) have a source there in California.
Good
luck & keep in touch, Steve
------------------------------------------------------------
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From:
"Gary Siegle"
Hi
Steve,
Your
Rigging web page has been very helpful Thank you. I bought a Banshee last
year and it has bin re-work quite alot when I received it. The one thing
that I could not find was the serial number if it had one and a I didn't
receive a original banshee sail with the proper id. The owner didn't
know what type of boat it was when I got it. Thanks again and
as I go through the rigging I will keep in touch.
Gary
Cincinnati
------
From:
sbonham
You're
welcome Gary. The serial number should be stamped on the transom of the
boat. However it may have been reglassed or replaced by now. See the following
link for details on translating your boat's number: http://boatsafe.com/nauticalknowhow/hin.html
I look forward to hearing more from you.
Best
of luck. Steve
------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 28 Jun 2001
Steve,
I just read your Banshee rigging page, very nicely done! Good, clear photos
& descriptions. I have a '75 Banshee that I am getting ready to sail..I
want to have some fun before I sell it on eBay. I live in central Oregon
& sail my boats on the high lakes here.
Larry
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
JICKIC
Steve
My
name is Jim and I am an owner of a Banshee Sailboat. When I was 13 my dad
and I were going to take up sailing and we bought this little sailboat.
Unfortunately, My dad became ill with cancer and we had to get rid of the
boat. My cousin was a sailor and he took the boat off our hands, and to
make a long story short, he called the other day to say that its been in
the garage for the past 18-19 years. I am 32 now and have two children
and I want to get this old boat on the water again. My Banshee needs work
but I think I have that under control. Once I give some TLC to the hull
and rigging I am ready to go but I need a sail. Over the years the sail
disappeared some how or another. If you could offer any leads to a used
sail it would be much appreciated and I can be on my way to a fun summer
day. Thanks, oh and any other info is always appreciated
Jim
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
JICKIC
Hi
Jim
The
only source I have heard of for new sails is a Sherron in California (last
name Hart I think). The e-mail address for her is hartsail@jps.net.
best
of luck with your Banshee. Steve
------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 01 Jul 2001
Hi
Steve,
yes
its Hart Sail Design that makes those "GREAT" Banshee sails They are $545.00
that includes crash window, tell tales ,tapered battens, sock or halyard
luff and a sausage bag..... Which Banshee do you have?
Great
Sailing...... truly,
Sherron
Hart
West
Sacramento Ca. 95605
-----------------------------------------------------------
From:
Frannapa1
Dear
Steve,
I
can see you updated your directions! Thanks. School is over
for a month, so I am going to try to find the lines I need and get my Banshee
rigged and get out on the lake. Wish me luck. Thanks for your help.
Look forward to the chat room.
Fran
Eichler
PS
My sail has no numbers. Why is that?
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
Frannapa1
Hey
Fran,
One
of two reasons. The Banshee boats (when new circa 1974-1981) shipped with
numbered sails.
Steve
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
Gary_Siegle
Hi
Steve, I am looking at re-installing a hiking strap. In your photos their
was something between the hiking strap and the D ring. What is that? And
what is it used for? Is your boom stay on the out side of the sail? I have
everything sketch out on paper of what I want to redo but it will not all
get done year. I will try to send some pictures next week depending on
how far along I am.
Thanks
again for your help. Gary
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
Gary_Siegle
Hi
Gary,
My
strap goes around the daggerboard trunk/well and back to the double D ring
which connects to the transom wall via a short strap. See attached illustration
[cockpit01.jpg].
Daggerboard Trunk ....HIKING STRAP.....D ring...short strap...Transom wall
Which photo you are speaking of? I'm not clear by what you mean by a "boom
stay." Do you mean what I refer to as the book lift line? If so, yes it
is long enough that once the sail is hoisted it flies in the wind or slumps
against the sail with plenty of slack. It is about 9-12" longer than the
distance from the top of the mast to the end of the boom once the sail
is housted. It does not interfere with the battens -- if that is your concern.
All
the best, Steve
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
Gary_Siegle
Hi
Steve,
The
boom lift line is that I was referring to I don't have all the terminology
down but I under stood the answer. I have another question about the dagger
board and the piece of inner tube that you install to hold the dagger board
in place about how thick is that rubber? My dagger board is the full length
of the dagger board well it is not as skinny as yours I may have to make
a new one.
Thanks
again Gary
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
Gary_Siegle
Pretty
thick. About as thick as 8-10 sheets of legal pad paper. Wow! You have
a major daggerboard! See Bryan's webpage with all the stats for dimensions
of Banshee parts. Info on daggerboard is at: http://www-swiss.ai.mit.edu/%7Ebentz/rules.html
Hang
in there! Steve
------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 03 Jul 2001
Steve:
Sorry
not to answer sooner but I was out of town. I use two mini-Elvstrom bailers,
a few inches in front of the thwart, and about 4 inches to each side of
the centerboard well. They work quite nicely at removing water. I've also
seen boats with a single large suction bailer, placed on one side. Prob.
either system will work for you. You have to have courage, and actually
cut a hole (or two holes) into your hull, but the bailers come with stencils
that tell you exactly how to shape the hole for the bailer, and the screws
used to attach it. If done correctly, the bailer (when closed) is nearly
flush with the outside surface of the hull. You can fill in any irregularities
with aquarium sealer. The bailers are attached by flat-head bolts. Their
heads should be flush with the hull. Use stainless nuts threaded with plastic
on the inside of your hull, and cut the bolts to such a length that they
do not protrude above the nut once attached. Let me know if any of this
is unclear!
Mike
>Hey
Mike,
>I'm
ready to give self bailers a go. I was out in "small craft advisory" conditions
(I didn't know it at the time) a couple of months ago at Jekyll Island,
Georgia. Thankfully I was on the windward side of the island. Waves around
2 feet... After almost an hour of exciting sailing a wave broke over the
starboard side. Almost completely swamped I intentionally capsized. Then
righted her. This continued for the next twenty minutes. Every five minutes
or so a wave would come over the side or over(!) the bow. I was getting
dog-tired!!! A Cessna was circling above me! It was getting harder and
harder to right the boat as I was taking on water (via the mast well I
think). I ended up sailing my almost full-cockpitted Banshee to the nearest
landmass (quarter mile) and beaching it till conditions improved (next
day!)...
>Can
you provide more detail about this process? Do you have pictures or sketches
of your setup?
>Thx,
>Steve
>>3.Bailers.
These are absolutely essential for keeping your boat dry when there are
waves. A Banshee will ship a lot of water when beating through a chop,
or when you lose control, heeling excessively but not capsizing. You can't
continue sailing under those conditions while trying to bail the boat by
hand.
>>I
suggest you install two Elvstrom minibailers 3-4" to either side of the
midline, just under the thwart or a few inches forward.
------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 03 Jul 2001
Steve:
Your
attachment shows the bailers on the floor of the boat, not the sidewalls
of the daggerboard well! In fact, they are in exactly the right place!
When you install the bailers, make sure that the pivot faces toward the
bow, and the opening (where the water gets sucked out) faces aft! Mike
At
01:26 PM 7/3/2001 -0700, you wrote:
>Thanks
Mike! This is quite helpful.
>Excuse
my ignorance about bailers- These things are then installed on the floor
of the cockpit?? I was thinking that were were on the sidewalls of the
daggerboard well.... See illustration attached [cockpit01.jpg]
and let me know if this looks right.
>Thx
again,
>Steve
------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 03 Jul 2001
Steve:
Try
the following suppliers of dinghy parts. They both have web pages. Layline
APS You're looking for "Elvstrom" style bailers, made of solid stainless!
There are others on the market, but I don't know anything about them. If
you elect to go for a double bailer system, you want the Elvstrom "mini"
bailer that's about 3-4 " long. If you go for a single bailer, get the
next size up (around 5" long). Mike
At
03:05 PM 7/3/2001 -0700, you wrote:
>Alright!
Got you Mike.
>Thanks
for the help. I've been searching for a vendor online-- to no avail. Guess
I'll try the local marina--unless you know of a source online?
>Steve
>>Steve:
>>Your
attachment shows the bailers on the floor of the boat, not the sidewalls
of the daggerboard well! In fact, they are in exactly the right place!
>>When
you install the bailers, make sure that the pivot faces toward the bow,
and the opening (where the water gets sucked out) faces aft!
>>Mike
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
Kyle Gross Hey
Kyle, I'm sending you an attachment [bailers.jpg] -- a drawing of what
I THINK I'm supposed to do regarding installation of my bailers. Please
give me some feedback? Particulalrly regarding orientation-- I'm assuming
that the lever side is INSIDE the boat? But which end goes fore/aft? Where
do gaskets go? Why do I have two? Thx much, Steve
>Steve:
>The
bailers do not have instructions.
>I
am happy to answer any questions. Just give me a call.
>Regards,
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
Kyle Gross
Steve:
You may find the Anderson (replacement for the old Elvstrom - the name
is the only dif.) at: http://www.apsltd.com/depts/dept278.asp
Regards,
Kyle APS
-----Original
Message-----
Got'em?
cost for: 3"? 4"? 5"?
Thx,
Steve
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
"BRYAN A. BENTZ"
That's
great. I have it on the site, linked from the main page, in rules.html.
I'm trying to do some other site things too. I didn't change the text formatting
any (yet). Bryan
>Hi
Bryan,
>With
a new scanner and OCR software I was finally able to convert your gif images
of the Banshee rule book to text (and images). I did a little editing where
I found typos and added another large composite image.
>The
page is temporaily on-line for your access at: >Please
save the html file and images and edit as you see fit for public access
on your Banshee site. Let me know when and where I can link to it.
>Happy
sailing,
>Steve
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
"BRYAN A. BENTZ"
I also
put a link on the page to your page, and took the time to look at it more
thoroughly. The stuff on rigging is very well done; I liked the animation
of the bowline - did you do this yourself, or find it?
Bryan
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
"Gary Siegle"
Hi
Steve,
Here
are some pic's of my daggerboard there is enough of it that I will be able
to cut the new one out of it. I also have to pieces of mahogany that
I can make a new one. What would you suggest? I found a piece of
poly prop at the home depot that I used as a seal for the daggerboard I
hope that will work. I need to know the thickness of the banshee's
daggerboard the one the I have is 7/8" thick my daggerboard for my sunfish
is 3/4" thick. What is the detail at the top of the daggerboard?
More pic's are in the making.
Thanks
again Gary
Attachments:
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
"Gary Siegle"
Gary,
Go to: http://www-swiss.ai.mit.edu/~bentz/rules.html
for a drawing of the rudder & daggerboard. It is about a third of the
way down the page. You have quite a bit of material to work with! and it
appears to be in excellent condition! Do you have a good trailing (sharp)
edge on the existing daggerboard? It was hard to tell in your images. Both
edges appear to be fairly blunt. If so you have some major re-shaping to
do. I can take some shots of mine and maybe work up a sketch of thicknesses
if you'd like.
Steve
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
"Gary Siegle"
Hi
Steve,
I went
to that site for the basic outline but it doesn't have thickness or anything
above the control line. There is a leading and a trailing edge both start
about an 1-1/2" on the side and taper to about a 1/4"-3/8" radius on the
edges. This edges extends from control line on one side to the control
line on the other. The daggerboard that I have doesn't involve a lot of
woodworking skills if indeed that is how it is suppose to be. Your pic's
and sketch may be vary helpful if its not to much trouble? Thanks again
Gary
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
"Cheryl Rupkus"
My
daughter has a 23 foot sailboat. and we had to do allot of work on it.
now we are having a program putting the mast up. It is a 30 foot long mast.
My husband try putting up the mast and the bolt that on the plate that
connect the mast to pins pull out of the boat, so now my husband trying
to fix that. But is there an easy way to get the mast up without bending
the mast. I please help if you could give me any idea soon.
Thank
you,
Mrs.
Rupkus
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
"Cheryl Rupkus"
Hi
Cheryl,
I have
an 18' Hobie Catermaran with a 29' mast. It too is a bear to raise unless
you use a winch-- which is what I do.
Try
these websites for options.
------------------------------------------------------------
Date
sent: Fri, 6 Jul 2001
>Sorry--
forgot to tell you where to look. See the TWO AIRFOILS article.
>>Gary
& Bryan,
>>The
website with the airfoil design was at: http://www.hanleyinnovations.com/windsurf.html
>>There
is some interesting stuff there. It appears that moving the thickest portion
of the board/wing back (near the midpoint (50% area)) may provide more
lift.
>>Bryan,
are you up on this issue?
>>Steve
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
"BRYAN A. BENTZ"
I've
gotten tied up working this weekend; I haven't had a chance to really read
email. I have been in touch with Mr. (Dr.) Hanley before about airfoil
design though - I strongly recommend his software. Bryan
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
"BRYAN A. BENTZ"
I've
attached yet another message board service to the Banshee web page; feel
free to give it a try.
Bryan
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
"BRYAN A. BENTZ"
Traditionally,
in wooden vessels, the keelson is the wood above the keel, essentially
part of the structure to bind the keel to the hull. It isn't clear to me
what the term means in a non-keel fiberglass boat.
Bryan
>Hi
Bryan,
>Thanks
for the nice comments. Nope, didn't do the bowline. It was one of the animations
done on the website I pointed to- a scouting site in the UK.
>I
have a question for you-- on the rules page... the diagram re: rudder and
daggerboard dimensions include the term "keelson." I am unfamiliar with
that term. I assume it refers to the line of the bottom of the hull at
the dagerboard well or the transom wall? The measurements shown are areas
BELOW the hull? Right?
>Thx
for clarification.
>Steve
------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 10 Jul 2001
Steve,
Thanks for putting the rigging guide together. I sailed as a youngster
and bought a Banshee a few years ago to sail with my daughters. I learned
a few things from guide.
Brian
F. Larson
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
ScotishJig
would
you happen to know of any Banshees that are for sale or where i could buy
a Banshee? Thanks
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
ScotishJig
Hi
ScotishJig,
Nope--
sorry. I do not-- at this time. There are occassinally auctions on eBay
and I've seen them listed on http://www.boats.com.
I'll keep my eyes peeled. Steve
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
mshadylane
Hi
Steve, Thank you so much for your awesome photo guide on how to rig a Banshee.
I learned to rig and sail a Laser when I was 12 but really haven't sailed
since. Never could have done it without your guide. I did have one question
though. My daggarboard seems to small for its slot. Should it have some
play? It seems like there are 3-4 extra inches in there. I'd have to messier
for sure. I'm also very leery of standing on that thing when trying to
flip the boat back over. I stand on it right next to the hull but it sure
bends like it could break.
Any
thoughts,
Michael
Lane.
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
mshadylane
Hi
Michael, Sorry about the delay in replying- I've been on a sailing vacation
to lake Norman in NC. Glad that the rigging pages were useful to you. Most
daggerboards are smaller than the well. That way you can move &/or
tilt them forward or backward depending on your cockpit load and the wind/water
conditions. When I am in my boat solo I find that most of the time I have
the daggerbrd 2/3 down-- positioned all the way forward- and tilted from
front to back. See my ascii "illustraion" below.
Happy
sailing, Steve
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
mshadylane
Hi
again Steve, I wrote you about my daggerboard concerns. I've since measured
it and found some problems. Its dimensions are 44.5"x10.5". Hope that is
right for my boat. I also noticed a crack in the fiberglass around most
of the dagger. You can see inside a bit too. I guess that needs replaced
or repaired. Any thoughts. I am a furniture maker and could maybe reproduce
one. I also want to replace the small bumper strip around the boat. Any
suggestions you can make would be greatly appreciated. I'll send you a
photo of her after she's all fixed up.
Thanks
again, Michael Lane
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
mshadylane
Hi
Michael,
Just
sent you a reply to the first message. Okay. So-- you do have a fiberglass
(or fiberglass covered) daggerbrd now. Sounds like with your woodworking
skills you could certainly do the second option-- make a new one. See the
specs page I mentioned and the illustration I made for another Banshee
owner. The bumper strip is the "rubrail" in sailing jargon. I need to replace
mine too. The old black brittle one is broken all over the place on my
boat. Thing is-- it is rivetted at about 6" intervals all along the deck/hull
joint-- and I'm leery of removing the rivets. Let me look into this a little
more and I'll get back to you. Look forward to the photos.
BTW,
where are you located/sailing? Steve
------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 15 Jul 2001
This
is a question about the Banshee I am trying to remove the mast step insert
and it doesn't want to pull out all rivits and bolts to deck hardware
have been removed any hints?
thank
you in advance ,doug
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
doug montgomery
Hi
Doug,
It
is possible that a previous owner(?) might have reinforced the mast well
by adding epoxy or fiberglass via the access port. If they covered the
washer/nut or bolt head you may be in for a little work.
Advice:
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
ScotishJig
I have
a few questions about the Banshee, how much does the banshee weigh? how
long is the banshee? Thanks
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
ScotishJig
The
hull weight (does not include mast, boom, sail, sheets) of the Banshee
is 120+ pounds. The overall length is 13'. 6' of this is cockpit (it is
quite roomy). Beam/width is 4'11". See more details at: brochure.html
------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 16 Jul 2001
Thanks
so much for reply. I made a temporary fix to my dagger with a adhesive
called gorilla glue, so I could take the boat on vacation. The glue is
almost like a liquid spray-foam insulation. It seemed to work good.
Based
on your message I think I may build my own new one out of Ironwood. It's
a dense/heavy material mostly used for decking. Would a heavier board be
ok. I thought it might make the craft a bit more stable. I won't be racing
it. My wife is a windsurfer, so I bought this boat so we could go out together.
We mostly sail at a small lake in the Denver area. We live in the mountains
and there several reservoirs within an hour of us. Some are very cold though.
Not exactly sailing Mecca. We get very swirl/gusty and variable winds.
Needless to say my skills are improving rapidly. We are vacationing to
the in-laws lake home this week in NW Wisconsin to sail and hope to hit
Lake Maconihay {sp} on the way back. This fall we will go to south Padre
for some ocean time.
Thanks
again,
Michael
Lane
-------------------------
Date:
Tue, 17 Jul 2001
Steve:
I was
unable to open your attachment [bailers.jpg]
except as a tiny read-only figure, but perhaps the following will help.
To
use the bailer, you left up the handle and push down. If you do this before
you install the bailer, you'll see that the center portion pivots at one
end; that end should face the bow. The opposite end extends downward and
should have a flap over it. That flap will open to release water from inside
your boat. The flap should face toward your stern.
I don't
know why you were given two gaskets as only one is needed. You might contact
your merchant for advise on this. [I did. Mike is right on. Use a thin
or thick gasket or both to make the bottom of the bailer flush with the
outside of the hull.] The gasket should fit between the bailer and the
floor of your Banshee. The hold you cut in the hull needs only to be large
enough for the center portion of the bailer so it can pivot downward. You'll
also be drilling some small holes on each side of this cut for the bolts
that attach the bailer to the hull. Be sure to use a countersink to finish
those holes, so that the flathead bolts are flush with the hull bottom.
Good
luck! Mike
-------------------------
From:
Gary_Siegle
Hi
Steve,
Hope
you had a good week of sailing. I had a chance to go sailing Sunday in
a light wind. I notice that I have to make a new daggerboard for my boat.
It was difficult to turn a tight radius, and I believe that the extra wide
daggerboard has a lot to do with that. When the wind strong it had no problem
turning tight,but if there where anything less it could not do it. I e-mail
Abbott boats and they have one daggerboard left for approx. 119.00 not
worth that much to me I am going to make a new one. I build a solid 3D
model of the daggerboard with the dimensions that I recieved from you.
Looks like the convalutted wing of an aircraft. I have a good idea how
I am going to build it and I will document the progress
Take
care Gary
-------------------------
From:
sbonham
Hi
Gary,
Thanks,
we did have some good days. 5 of the 7 we sailed. Mostly light to moderate
winds. Only able to windsurf one day. :-( BUT the kids had a blast. We
were in a protected cove and on the moderate days they could really get
some good soloing practice. See my new "capsize recovery" animation for
a peek Misc/right.gif.
I just
realized that I forgot to send the photo of my dagger board. Here it is
[dag_x-sect.jpg].
I did not truely realize how FLAT my board is until I took this photo.
It is not airfoil quality! Still, it works like a charm. I can pull some
tight little turns in light winds. Looking forward to hearing and seeing
more about your progress.
Steve
-------------------------
Date:
Sat, 21 Jul 2001
Steve,
From
a earlier corrospondance I questioned about removing the Mast step for
repair. You said possibly a earlier repair was made and the Step and socket.
That was the fact both were glued together making it impossible to remove
one without the other. I ended up completely removing the socket that is
glassed to the bottom of the boat leaving the doubler in place. I was planing
on repairing the step then making a wooden socket and glassing it into
the bottom. Since a repair was made prior to this I am unsure of the original
configuration was the step fixed to the socket with the bolt that aligns
the mast? Any comments?
thanks,
Doug
-------------------------
Date:
Sat, 21 Jul 2001
Doug,
All
I know for sure is what I have in my Banshee. I have a mostly unthreaded
5/8" bolt (the "step pin") held in place in the bottom of the mast well
by large fenderwashers, a lock washer and a nut. I've been told by another
Banshee owner that their step pin was surrounded by a stainless steel jacket.
Sounds like a better design to me as the 5/8" bolt was smaller than the
notch in the mast base. I'm CCing this reply to Skip Stanyan of California
whom was formerly GM for Marine Plastics-- the folks who made the Banshee.
Maybe he can provide more detail on the original mast step design.
[See
illustrations of mast step pin area (top
- side)]
Steve
From:
Skip Staynan
Hello,
Just
returned from some great sailing at Woodward Lake, near Oakdale, CA. Really
great sailing there if you have't tried it yet. They even have a race coarse
set up for Regattas.
Regarding
your problem with the mast step, I will create a drawing showing a cross
section of the mast step and the way it should all go together. I also
just finished rebuilding the transom of Banshee # 1 (I have two of them
now) and as soon as the pictures are back from lab and I scan them etc
I will publish the transom rebuild process on the Banshee website as well
as the mast step drawing I will create.
Hope
everyone in Folsom Fleet One is enjoyiong the summer. I will have both
boats down on the lake soon for some sailing on Folsom. It will be a first
time for me. :)
Best
regards, Skip Stanyan
----------------
Date:
Thu, 19 Jul 2001
Hello
there from sunny Alaska (rainy and windy today). Well we are the proud
new owners of a Banshee we purchased at a garage sale. The bad news of
the purchase is all we got was the hull. We are looking for after market
or used parts or all the running gear. Any help would be appreciated as
we want to join the Big Lake Yahct Club.
Thanks
Mouse and Steve
-----------------------
Hi
Mouse and Steve,
Brrrrr.
*Still* sounds cold! Congratulations on your "new addition." I hope that
you'll be able to find (or fabricate) all the pieces that you need.
Let's
see-- you need:
See
the specs for daggerboard and rudder at: http://www-swiss.ai.mit.edu/~bentz/rules.html
My
Banshee
rigging guide provides line lengths for most of the rigging. If you
decide to build your own mast and boom and can get you some photos and
measurements. Let me know. Let me know how it goes?--
and
good luck with your boat!
Steve
---------------------
From:
Fran Eichler
Dear
Steve,
The
boat was I think a 1976 one, according to the registration...I'll have
to unfurl the sail and see if there are any marks. It's not a new
sail, in fact, it needs a patch on the luff side. In fact the seam
by the tack grommet is a little torn, about 1/2 inch. Should
I patch it? There are no marks on the sail from previous numbers...but
I understand that the numbers are only if I am racing and I don't believe
I will be doing any racing for a while.
The
other things I have discovered are that I have no topmast block.
There is only a clip where the block would go.
Also
I have no clews outhaul shackle on the boom. No, actually, I don't
know where to find that. Is it a separate shackle that I need to
put on the outhaul? I'm still having trouble figuring all this out.
But your explanation is definitely easier to understand than before.
At least I now have my Banshee in the water. Apparently, Lazer
was more aggressive, and took away a lot of business, so many people have
Lazers that would have had Banshees?
So,
can you tell me what I need for the boom...also, I know I need a boom vang
and you mentioned what you got, but I don't know what size to get, there
are a number of shackles, in the catalogue. Mark suggested I get
a Harken clew hook for my outhaul. So I did, also I had no block
on my topmast, so I got a block, but I'm not sure how I will get it on
as it is not one of the side opening ones. Any suggestions.?
I am going to go to the races this Wed. night at Folsom Lake and see how
some of them rig their banshees.
I am
so frustrated...I don't think I will get to sail this summer.
Thanks
for your help.
Fran
Eichler
--------------------
Hi
Fran,
Keep
the faith girl! The guys at Folsom Lake will certainly be able to help.
Take your boat and your new hardware and go early. Maybe you CAN sail it
Wednesday!
On
your questions--
>sail
by tack grommet is torn...
>no
outhaul shackle...
Steve
------------------
From:
"Cliff Billett"
Dear
Steve,
I really
enjoyed your site and the results of all your efforts. Thank you very much
for sharing it and answering so many questions over the years. I didn't
see anyone ask this one: My friend's newly acquired Banshee has received
minor, but deep gouging on the bow from boat trailer flex and bow rubbing
on trailer nose piece. As I scraped a bit in the gouge, I was surprised
to find the material quite dry and flakey. The boat was stored outside
in the East Bay near San Francisco for about 10 years without being used.
1.
Do you know approximate thickness of the hull, particularly at the leading
edge of the bow. Was core material used?
2.
We'll fill and glass it, any thoughts you have would be appreciated. (We'll
be sure to check the transom carefully also)
3.
Another question if I may: I noted that foam broke loose within the cavity
under the gunwale on the ride home. Do you know if original boats had sprayed
in foam? It sounds like many owners have been inserting material and perhaps
a bit of removal of loose material makes sense before doing this. I'm delivering
the Banshee to the Portland, OR area this weekend where it will get some
time on the Columbia River. As an International 110 sailer on the East
Coast way back, I'm looking forward to sailing this one. If others are
finding sail sources a challenge, I'd be happy to check with the sail maker
here who made this boat's sails about sharing his name. The former boat
owner, who knows the sailmaker well, indicated that he would be happy to
make additional sails anytime. Please let me know if you'd like this info
for your site. Thanks again for your discussion page and links.
Cliff
Billett
---------------
To:
"Cliff Billett"
Hi
Cliff (& Skip Stanyan),
Good
questions: my thoughts... Skip Stanyan (former GM for Marine Plastics that
built the Banshee) would probably know about the hull construction/design.
I'm CCing this to him. He may have more info.
I can
only speak from experience with my boat-- My hull seems to have slightly
different thicknessess depending upon the location examined. The central
area in the cockpit floor seems most thin -- I'm estimating 1/8" - 3/16".
The daggerboard and bow ridge area do seem to be little thicker-- 1/4"
to 5/16" I'd say. This makes sense, doesn't it? These are the areas where
greatest stresses are placed when sailing. I'm clueless about the "flaking."
Doesn't sound good tho. Sounds like pretty severe ultraviolet light damage
combined with a lot of flexing.
On
the flotation question; This I do know! Yes, the original boats did have
foam flotation attached to the interior/top wall of each side air cell.
There seems to be a thin Saranwrap-like membrane enclosing it-- and this
membrane is disintegrating (on my boat anyway). My boat is 27 years old
now and I've left this original stuff in but also added several solid "swimming
pool noodles" (3 or 4 per side and 4or 5 more inside the bow)-- a lot can
be placed via the inspection port-- although I stuff 6 or 8 in when I replaced
my transom a while back. This has helped tremendously. She does now stay
"high and dry" when capsized. Before I'd ship 30 gallons or so (a bathtub
full) when righting the boat after a spill. Everytime following a sail
I find fragments of the original flotation foam spilling from the air cells
when I drain the boat on the trailer. I now regret NOT removing the foam
when I replaced my transom.
On
the sail guy-- That would be great Cliff. Have a great sail-- and DO add
those noodles prior to your trip! Sailing a swamped Banshee is nothing
close to fun.
Breezes,
Steve
------------------------------------------------------------------
From:
DIALSF
Hi
all,
I just
repaired Banshee # 2 I bought in Santa Maria a few months ago and it is
normal for material to be somewhat flaky after so many years. When we originally
produced the Banshees we made great effort not to make the lay-up adequate
for strength but not to wet as we were considering the ultimate weight
of the boat. The Lay-up in the bow is always more substantial because of
overlapping of material and the obvious physical punishment it is subjected
to! I sanded the cavity and the area of gelcoat immediately around it and
used reinforcing 11/2oz mat and cloth to build it back up to surface spec
and then sanded it to original contour. I then went over it with bondo
for a final finish layer and wet sanded it to a smooth finish. I then repainted
with gelcoat, wet sanded with 400 grit and then machine compounded it with
McQuires Mirror Glaze machine compound until blended in with hull gelcoat
finish. It came out very nice! I am taking in the pictures today and as
soon as finished and scanned I will send to Banshee web Admin for publishing.
Regarding
floatation. We used to pour the foam onto the side flotation areas, not
spray it. the film over the top of the foam is a naturally occurring film
that manifests after the foam has cured, if that helps you at all.
I just
installed an inexpensive ($15.00 at Target) 12 Volt 600 GPH bilge pump
in my # 1 Banshee. I put a rubberized cigarette lighter outlet in my bulkhead
above the access port and I have a 12 V motorcycle battery connected to
that (secured inside under deck). I then hook up the pump to that (has
a lighter plug connected to pump) and have a switch under the daggerboard
box/top to turn on and off. The 3/4 inch, flexible pump outlet hose, goes
up the top of my hiking strap (use snap ties to fasten) and out through
the transom via a thru-hull fitting. I am only trying out at this time,
but it looks like it will work quite well when needed. I occasionally get
knocked down or take in water when coming about sometimes and this will
help along with using my Elvstrom bailer in the bottom of hull. Getting
older (57) and tired of bailing by hand lol:)))
I will
get back to you with rest of info when available and thanks for your interest
in "fixes for the Banshee".
Enjoy
your sail up north, Skip Stanyan
PS
I recently had to find new battons for my sail and found a company near
Jack London Square in Oakland, named Pinnapple Sails, very helpful.
You might check with them and see if they would make a new sail and at
what price. I am going over there to replace a batton that jumped out of
the sail pocket last weekend and will be happy to check for you as well.
I will take my sail over for them to look at and then forward their response
to you all.
Steve,
Thanks
again for your responses and the forward from Skip.
The
Banshee sailmaker I know of is the same as Skip Stanyan said he found
Pineapple
Sails
Regards,
Cliff
Billett
I just
want to thank you for the very helpful site. I have always been
Thanks
again,
You're
quite welcome-- glad you found it helpful. Now... you just have to figure
out which boat to buy!
Be
careful of the "Hobiecat trap." We are a family of five (wife & 3 kids;
ages 12, 10 and 8). A year ago we bought a BIG Hobie (18'). It absolutely
flys. It is much faster than my Banshee. The trouble is this size cat requires
two to sail her in anything more than light winds... and even then capsizes
can happen in an instant-- and it takes 265 pounds to right her a LOT MORE
if she turtles and they do that FAST too. Look carefully and be sure to
ask for a "sea trial" (test drive).
Best
of luck and happy sailing.
Steve
Dear
Sir, Please sympathize with me. There is a Banshee in my back yard and
it has been there for three years. I really feel uncomfortable on the computer,
I guess I'm what is considered computer illiterate. The reason I am writing
you is that I really need your Three part explanation on rigging the Banshee,
yet I don't have a color printer and on my machine your pages print only
half (down the center) at a time. For three years I've been frustrated
with these hindrances. Is there anyway you could send a copy to me at:
[address ommitted]. I know that this is asking allot, but you seem to be
the best hope I've got to get this boat in the water. No one around me
sails anything but sailboards, and I feel afraid to ask for help. I want
to do this by myself, despite my wife, despite my kids, despite everything.
I did get it registered for the next four years so take your time.
Thanks
for any help. Randy
I'll
work on getting you a copy today.
Good
luck with Banshee.
Steve
Steve,
Thanks
again. This is helpful.
I'm
doing trailer wheel bearings for the 650 mile trip tomorrow. It hadn't
Happy
Sailing,
Cliff
Cliff,
Last
night I began installation of my autobailers and a took a photo of interest
to you. The hull at the daggerboard area is pretty thick slightly over
1/4 inch.
See
attached file [hull_thick.jpg].
Seemed to be three layers of fiberglass mat in this area. Note the bands
of color in the x-section cutout. Normally I understand that when fiberglass
is "laid up" is it usually laid in alternating layers of mat (thick- looks
like fiberboard) & cloth (thin - looks woven). Thought you'd be interested.
Steve
Hi,
It's
good to see there is an active fleet. I was afraid the Banshee had
gone
Nearly
twenty years later, I wonder if I could still step that heavy mast.
I
Thanks
for the neat web page,
Pat
Hi
Steve
Thanks
Not
very loose when you have the right "donut." Don't risk a jeryrig here.
I did too initially (with two thick tube socks wrapped about the mast).
It's not worth all the bother-- not to mention the risk of cracking for
mast well. You can buy a replacement mast well gasket from www.abbottboats.com
for about $10.
Steve
------------------------------------------------------------------
My
wife, decided we should learn to sail and picked up a used boat at a
I kept
asking all the sailboat shops what brand it was based on the red and
I have
a few queries that perhaps you can help with.
1)
There is no serial number on the WOOD (Marine Ply with a mahogany? outer
2)
On the bottom of the boat about four inches aft of the centerboard well,
3)My
sail does not have a window on it. When were those added? or is it a
4)
Any suggestions for what to clean the sails with? There seem to be some
5.
My boat has a traveler on it. Any problems with having one? [traveler
on a Banshee]
6)
the foam flotation has become detached from the hull and could bounce
7)
Know of any banshee organizations in Texas? No other Texans were listed
Thanks
for any guidance you can provide.
Man!
Sounds like you got one of the early Banshees. Circa 1974 or 75, I believe...
and it sounds like this one had quite a skipper at one time (the bailer
and traveler are NOT standard items. Also, sounds like you have paid the
$350 AND A LOT MORE in TLC already. It'll be worth it. You and your wife
will love your Banshee.
I can
provide some answers but I'm CCing this to a few guys (Mike Salmon, Skip
Stanyan, Bryan Bentz) who may have additional (& better!) info.
Re:
Question #1 (no HIN info on transom)
The
url for the HIN site is: http://boatsafe.com/nauticalknowhow/hin.html.
If you can't get there soon let me know and I can fax a copy of the info.
Re:
#2 (rectangular metal thing in cockpit floor next to daggerboard well)
[Animation
showing how to install a auto bailer]
Mike
Salmon is a Banshee bailer advocate see his notes at: http://www-swiss.ai.mit.edu/~bentz/rigging.html
Re:
#3 (sail windowesss)
Re:
#4 (cleaning sails)
Re:
#5 (traveller)
#6...
(loose flotation material)
#7...
Best
of luck,
------------------------------------------------------------------
Steve,
I'm
mostly kayaking in calm waters with my wife, Janet. I also rent canoes
Sadly,
I haven't sailed in several years. I think the only hope is to build
It
looks like you are starting your own little sailors early. Good luck
and
Pat
From:
"Steven M. Kornblau, MD"
Thanks
for replying. I used your rigging instructions to make one final list
We
live on the water near the Johnson Space Center & will be sailing on
Given
the presumed age I would have to guess that the prior owner was likely
I think
someone did a repair job on it at one point as the transom seems to
The
self bailer is unpainted in the cockpit and was unpainted until two
After
reviewing your rigging photos there is still one modification that I
I couldn't
help notice that most of the e-mail addresses are "edu" endings.
Thanks
for your help
Steve
------------------------------------------------------------------
From:
<sbonham>
Steve,
Careful
buddy, maybe that metal thing in your cockpit is a micro solid rocket booster!
;-)
The
bailer opening size-- I can't say for sure. Havn't had a chance to test
mine yet. I just did the install last week. At this point mine doesn't
see to open at all-- even with the lever up. :-( I'm hopeful that the small
slit at the aft end is "engaged" once the lever is up and that I will lose
water. If yours does OPEN wider let me know, okay?
Hmmmm!
The second question about the mysterious line and cleating system from
gunwale to mast to opposite gunwale is quite intriguing! Sounds like it
could be:
I've
never seen anyone use such as system for a downhaul or cunningham-- but
it does sound workable! Certainly easier to adjust the tension from the
cockpit with that set-up. See my sketch [cunning?.jpg] of such in action--
does this look accurate?
Sounds
like a sure way to pull cleats out of the gunwales if it was for the vang.
I've never been able to find any use for the gunwale clam cleats- except
for securing the boat dockside-- but I may try this system for the cunningham!
On
the edu ending-- ".edu" indicates the user is from an educational institution.
Bryan is at MIT, Mike at Florida Atlantic Univ. and I'm at Georgia Southern
Univ.
Checked
on the back of my original Banshee brochure (which I rec'd with my purchase
in 1990). My Banshee orginally came from "Bugs and Bikes" in Lubbock, Texas.
If there was a dealer out there, there must be more Banshees!
Best
of luck with your Tuesday test ride!
Steve
Thanks
for the info. We rigged it in the driveway yesterday (see attached
------------------------------------------------------------------
She
looks great Steve. Looks like you need to make or buy some battens, eh?
But she'll do okay for the time being without them. Yep. That is a bailer.
Looks just like mine. Glad to hear someone else cannot "open" it. I didn't
dare use a hammer on it! ;-)
Look
for your Banshee (and details if you'd like to add some thoughts) on my
redesigned (stayed up late last night!) Banshee website.
Your
rubrail looks great- Is that original stuff? That is my next project. Latching
it down to the trailer has taken it's toll over the years and I've gotten
several missing pieces.
Happy
sailing,
Steve
From:
DIALSF
I think
the sail you have is an early sail that was manufactured prior to windows
being utilized. You can always have a sailmaker install a window in your
sail if it is in good enough condition to warrant that. I have'nt had a
chance to go across to the east bay for my replacement battens at Pinnapple
Sails but I promise I will get price and availability of a replacement
sail from them and let you know. My"guestimation" is it would probably
cost in excess of $ 800.00 though. There battens are certainly cheap though.
I bought 2- 36" Battens for $15.00, about half of what West Marine
charges. I just purchased another Banshee in Southern California as I got
an almost new condition sail out of the deal and $800.00 worth of like
new harkin hardware spars daggerboard, kickup rudder, all like new....
for $500.00 inc trailer and new registration.
I now
have two very nice Banshee's fully rigged and sailing. I have attached
a picture
of them. It also sounds like your complete transom was replaced at
some time in the past. It's unfortunate when people think they have to
remove the entire transom vs taking out the rotted wood down to the glass/gelcoat
substrate and then laminating the new wood against that. The number of
your sail would sure indicate your Banshee was built by Marine Plastics
in San Francisco or by a subcontractor in Marysville, CA. I have my pictures
back from the work I did on my Banshee and will post on web soon.
Best
regards, Skip Stanyan
------------------------------------------------------------------
From:
UserAngel
Hi
My name is Chris Rosenkrans and I have a Banshee that I have been
Now
for the fun part, I get to tell you about my boat. I was living in
A quick
side note: I have built three remote control sailboats and felt it
I brought
the boat home and quickly got to work. All the parts were there
This
is my boat story in a nutshell. Thanks for your time and any
Thanks
again,
Chris
Rosenkrans
------------------------------------------------------------------
Hi
Chris,
Neat
story. Sounds like you've earned a good boat. Interestingly, we have developed
an interest in the radio controled boats after sailing our Banshee. Maybe
we'll build one of those soon and I'll be e-mailing you for advice!
Okay--
your boom question. I'm not sure which "pin" you are speaking off... so
I'm putting a little diagram [goose_detail.jpg]
together that will hopefully be worth a million words. If it doesn't do
the trick feel free to ask for more clarification.
Send
a photo when you get her wet!
Best
of luck,
Steve
------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 4 Aug 2001
Hi
Steve, I'm looking for a lightweight Banshee, the Griffon (about
15 made) . Any leads would be appreciated.
Barnacle Burt
Hi
Burt,
You've
got your work cut out for you. Finding a Griffon may take a while. Sorry.
I don't know if a Griffon has a differnet sail insignia. Since only 15
where made I doubt that they are different.
I don't
believe that you can remove the transom to make it self draining--- not
without a major modification anyway. The boats designed for this have a
cockpit floor that is higher that the waterline. The Banshee and Griffon
cockpits both are below water.
I assume
that you could turn your boat into a self bailer by removing the transom
and bonding a 2" layer of closed cell foam to the floor- and then reglassing
- SUBSTANTIALLY. However, I've know heard of anyone doing this as yet-
Know too that your boat would not meet class rules with this modification.
Good
luck,
Steve
> Hi
Steve, I wrote earlier asking about a Griffon. Can you identify a
Banshee (Griffon variety) by the sail number or would it be listed as a
Griffon? Also, has anyone removed the transom >from a Banshee to
make it self draining like some of the Flying Juniors? Do you know
anyone with a Griffon I could talk to?
Thanks,
Barnacle Burt
------------------------------------------------------------------
Hi
Steve, I think I have located a Gryphon but the owner is asking $2200.
$2200!
Zikes! That does seem high- but what kind of shape is it in?
The
hull weight I understand is appox. 20 pounds lighter? Definitley "car toppable."
I'm
not sure what your hull shape difference question is in regard to-- I'm
not that familiar with the Griffon. I just know it has the composite/kevlar
hull.
Good
luck,
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 09 Aug 2001
Steve,
Exceptional
step-by-step help on rigging the Banshee! Photos, clear
I just
inherited my boat from a friend who moved and wasn't finding time to
I will
try to invest in the boom vang soon. I figured out what a fiddle
Thanks
again for the help!
Linda
Johnson Flowerday
Thanks
for the nice comments- Glad you found the rigging guide useful.
Enjoyed
your Iwo Jima story. I can imagine it! Nothing more fustrating than a wiggly
boat or a donut that wants to swim when stepping the Banshee mast!
If
you get in a fix like that again try this-- BUT NOT, repeat NOT- *NOT!!!*
in deep water (where you may lose your mast base if your boat turns turtle.
1.
Step only the base of the mast
If
you mess up (twisted halyard or such) you can always pull it back over.
The
thimble question... my mistake! It is called a becket. See new vang animatation
for more on using a simple vang. It's at:
Where
are you sailing Linda?
Steve
------------------------------------------------------------------
From:
"Steven M Kornblau, M.D."
Just
got back from our trip to LA. I bought the missing batten (actually had
As
far as I know the rub rails are original. You can't see the other
I emailed
Abbott about the mast gasket & a replacement gooseneck attachment
Found
my stuff on the revised web page too.
We
should be afloat this week, I'll send a water borne picture when
Steve
From:
"Steve Bonham"
ka-ching,
ka-ching. I hear that. Good thing you guys got such a good deal, eh?!
The
Dummies book is a favorite- another great item (and a quick read) if you
can find it is the Sail Magazine's "Best Little Learn to Sail Book Ever"
by Brad Dellenbaugh. He also wrote a Sports Illustrated "Guide to Small
Boat Sailing" that was good but is probably out of print. If you'd like
a photocopy or PDF of the Sail Mag thing let me know.
Sounds
like you did a great job on your daggerboard(?)/daggerboard well trim.
I should do that too. Mine looks like hell. I slap some tung oil on it
once a season...
On
the Abbott boats Q-- that surprises me. Alona is usually great about responding
to any query I've sent. Try to e-mail her directy at:
Breezes,
Steve,
This
is Ken. Somehow I got my wife's name at the bottom of my email. I
I live
in Lincoln, Nebraska. We have several lakes nearby, all big enough,
Thanks
again.
Ken
D. Flowerday
I thought
maybe it would be Lincoln, Neb. I coached a men's college gymnastics team
at the U of Georgia back in the 80s. Made a couple of trips to NCAA championships
in Lincoln- UN was a powerhouse back then- with Jim Hartung, Scott Johnson,
and Phil Cahoy. It WAS always windy there- so you are in a great place
for Banshee owners.
Yeah-
you do have a simple vang- (standard issue with the Banshee) but it is
not real powerful. One block on the boom and one on the mast-- right? The
one on the mast has a small extension that you could attach a line to -
that is the "becket"- the thimble thing was an error- I need to go back
and correct that.
Sounds
like you are in for some fun. I would replace the simple vang with a "double-double"
system as described in my rigging guide-- but you might try using what
you have first. If running downwind results in an wildly flapping boom
you may decide to upgrade.
Good
sailing,
Steve
Steve,
finally found your website. It's great. Got (almost) all the information
I was
The
story of my Banshee ('cause every B. seems te have one) might be interesting:
Unfortunately
he died a 2 years back, but some time before he
Some
specifations:
state
: pretty good, need to change all the wood, i think also the black "bumper".
originality:
it lost a lot of it's originality. As stated it got painted in de tub,
the dagger was
HINnumber
: I haven't found it yet. Do you know wher I should find it?
BTW,
the surrogate sail I have, can be reefed. I'm gonna use a halyard the way
you described,
I have
an extra question: while sailing against the wind, the water roles gently
over the
------------------------------------------------------------------
Hi
Marijn,
Loosdrecht,
Netherlands! ...and what a neat story!
This
IS the first I've heard from an overseas Banshee owner. But I bet there
are one or two others there. I'm wondering-- are you close to Ommen? I
spent five days there when I was in college. What a wonderful country you
live in. Beautiful countryside and such nice people! I still have my souvineer
wooden shoes displayed prominently in my home.
It
is a small world indeed! MY Banshee was originally purchased in Lubbock,
Texas around 1976! I bought it from a man in Athens, Georgia in 1990. The
Banshee brochure with a "Bug and Bike Shop - Lubbock, Texas" stamp on it
was included in my purchase. Maybe our boats sailed together once!? ;-)
Thanks
for your nice comments. I'm glad you found the Banshee information useful.
To respond to your questions/comments:
1.)
As far as I know all Banshees were originally two colors. Red/white, Gold/white,
or Blue/white.
Seriously,
it sounds like when heeling (boat tipping on side) Red Revil is riding
TOO LOW in the water. I'd add as many "swimming pool noodles" (flexible
closed-cell ethafoam flotation tubes or bars) to your boat as possible
- also you are hiking (leaning) out on the windward side to keep the boat
flat on the water, right? . These things are about 10cm in diameter and
about 1.5 meters long. I was able to force 6 or 8 of them into my side
flotation tanks via the inspection port. After looking at your
photos-- Do you ever take her out of the water? I bet that she is holding
some quanity of water. She appears to be sitting LOW in the water.
Take
her out, raise the bow and drain her via the drain plugs. See how much
water you have in there-- and inspect her for cracks in the hull (near
the daggerboard well) and along the deck/hull joint. I discovered serious
leaks in my boat when I tipped her onto her rail (side) [see attached picture
leaktest.jpg]
and fed a running water hose into her interior. If water leaks out she
is going to be taking water in when she heels over too! I do not know too
many Banshee sailors that leave their boats docked in the water when not
in use. You may want to look into dry storage options. If she does leak
I'd find a way to seal her. I poured quanities (1/4 gallon) of fiberglass
resin into the side cells with her tipped as in the second picture [joint_repair.jpg]
so that this liquid would fill the gaps and harden. I bet there is a better
material to use-- but it did the job on Doozie.
Hope
this helps-- and that you have some great times with "Red Devil!"
Steve
------------------------------------------------------------------
To:
sbonham
Hi
Steve,
thanks
for your reply. I think your right about the floating system. I remembered
it
Further
more:
I've
got the same "Bug and Bike"-brochure! I'm gonna check the right date. Maybe
they did
Am
I right to see that the inside of the boat should have the same color as
the deck? I
rubrail
uh. In Dutch it's called "stootrand". It means the same.
"Red
Devil" in Dutch would be "Rode Duivel". But it's gonna be in English of
course. My
To
be sure: transom wall is the rear wall of the boat?
I'll
check the insignia. I think it's an "Olympia Jol". But it is no sail you
want:
Hiking
is the main fun on this boat. Headdipping and all. I think you're right
about
It's
just in the water for my vacation. After a few weeks it's going out again.
You're
suggestions help me a lot. As I told you: lot to talking care of this winter.
Greetings,
Marijn
van Heeswijk
------------------------------------------------------------------
Marijn,
150km,
eh? Yeah, you are correct. I drive 115 miles (over 200 km) to go sailing
on weekends. I know several people that commute well over 70km daily. I
don't. I drive 3 miles to work. I wish I could cycle in but the only route
is along a busy two-lane highway and there are no bike lanes... sigh.
I think
that all new Banshees musy have had a primarily white (speckled with gray
& black textured paint) cockpit interior. See images of cockpit floor
at: 23boom.jpg
and 25boom.jpg
and
yes the transom is the rear wall of your boat.
Sounds
like you are in for some interesting re-fitting work this winter. I look
forward to hearing about it and do send photos (something with a windmill
in the background, perhaps?)!
All
the best,
------------------------------------------------------------------
To:
Steve Bonham
Steve,
Anyway,
your pictures tell me my cockpit wasn't originaly red and later on repainted
Pictures
will come your way! I'll try to fit in some windmills, and maybe I'll even
buy
Greetings,
Marijn
van Heeswijk
------------------------------------------------------------------
Hi
Marijn,
Wow.
10+ gallons! That's about 80 pounds of drag! I bet you are flying! That's
great!
On
the Banshee name- yeah, I knew it was something along those lines. I just
know that sailing mine lifts my spirit! :-) I don't know why the Marine
Plastics folks used a bird! Weird, huh? I guess drawing a spirit is a little
more difficult.
have
a good one,
------------------------------------------------------------------
From:
"Steven M Kornblau, M.D."
Steve,
Well
we finally got Banshee #875 (soon to be named Jisa) into the water this
past weekend. Saturday morning was a shakedown cruise until the wind gave
out. I learned that one of the battens was the wrong size, that the screws
to hold the tiller extension onto the tiller were too long (they scraped
my nice new paint job leaving arcs in their path), that my lines are too
long and where the shallow areas are in the water. Sunday morning, having
bought a new batten and two shorter screws, we took her out for a series
of trips with some friends of our that have sailing experience. We stayed
within half a mile of our house where it is very protected from the tide,
but where you can get a good wind. It was fun and I learned how to turn
around.
This
evening I got a bit braver and went out with my 7 y.o. He got a little
anxious when we heeled over a bit too much and got some water in the cockpit
(about 4 inches). The auto bailer does not seem to be working. If you figure
out yours let me know. I puttered around for about an hour and came in.
Lots of jibing, not as much coming about as I should have done. But it
went well and I was able to get away from the dock and back to the dock
both times I went out. The second return was at ramming speed however!
It's
taking me about 25 minutes to rig. Your manual is a major help. It is quite
nice to live on the water and to be able to just use a lift to drop it
in or out of the water, no trailering required. I'm looking for a boat
cover for it. Do you know anyone making a good one that fits? I'll send
a picture of it out on the water soon.
Steve
------------------------------------------------------------------
Great
Steve!
Sounds
like your "maiden voyage(s)" were a major successes and in challenging
conditions too. I don't think I would have tried salt water the first time
or two. Congratulations! Sounds like you learned a lot... that is where
most good sailors pick it all up. Have you read any of Moitessier's stuff?
I'm currently reading "Sailing to the Reefs"-- quite a character and quite
a story. He's made several single-handed circumnavigations- and was ALWAYS
"learning." After just a few chapters he been attacked by a shark while
spear-fishing, and lost his first ship (that he built) on a reef.
I havn't
been out in a while- 3 or 4 weeks now. Maybe I'll get a chance to try my
bailer this next weekend. I'll let you know. If you are going to take a
7 yr old out you better make sure that you can both recover from a capsize.
Banshees DO turn pretty easily especially in a gybe. I spent a lot of time
in shallow water with my son when he was 7 doing intentional capsizes.
Just sail on a beam reach and lean to leeward-- she'll turn onto her side
easily. The few time or two it is scary but then it is a lot of fun. Are
you sailing in a protected bay or in surf? DON'T do this in surf! LOL!
Enjoyed you comments about ramming speed docking. Been there! Always try
to beat into the wind on your last turn. Course with tides it is easier
said than done. I have seen boat coveres for Banshees advertised in a sailing
magazine. I'll find the contact info for you.
More
on that later.
------------------------------------------------------------------
Steve,
as
promised--
http://www.beanbag.com/SAILOR/mainst.htm
Looks
like a Banshee cover will run about $250.
But
they sound like good products.
------------------------------------------------------------------
From:
"Steven M Kornblau, M.D."
Steve,
Well
I've been out about 10 times on the JISA & I'm learning a lot as I
go. We had one bad episode where we were capsized by the wake of my across
the street neighbors motorboat. I got a fairly good laceration on the top
of the head from the boom clonking me. The jerk just motored off leaving
us in the water.
Today
I as out in a fairly brisk wind & doing well. I have a thinsuit for
scuba diving and it made for warm sailing despite the 60s temp and breeze.
You need to sail NE to get out onto clear lake and the wind was head on
from the NE, so I did a lot of tacking. On the way back, & fortunately
only a 1/2 mile from home, the gooseneck link to the boom broke. The cotter
pin and the link stayed on the mast. The part that connects to the boom
popped off.
I seem
to recall someone with a Banshee showing pictures of a repaired link. I'd
be grateful for any information on how to repair this, or where to get
replacement parts for this.
Best
Steve
------------------------------------------------------------------
Hi
Steve,
Glad
to hear you are still at it. I havn't been sailing in a while. Just back
from a windsurfing trip to Cape Hatteras. Zoom!!! 4 of 7 days we had 20+
mph winds. Ripped my hands to pieces.
That
was my boom! Sounds familiar! See my damaged/repaired
boom. You are not using a boom vang are you?! The same thing happened
to me (on a wild run downwind). The standard boom insert is rivetted into
the boom. After mine popped out, I used self-tapping screws to replace
the rivets and it has worked just fine.
HOWEVER,
I also started using a decent boom vang at that time and THAT has made
***all*** the difference. My website has some info about the vang design
(2 double blocks [one a fiddle with a V-cleat] and some 3/16" line) and
it will only cost you about $30-40-- so don't delay.
See
info at step 39 on this page: rig3.html
Take those "incoming" powerboat waves at a 30 degree angle (bow centerline
to wave line) and it will minimize problems. I once went at a right angle
to a 200' SHIP's 3' wave and it fairly flogged me-- my rudder --which was
bungeed in was whiplashed free. I had quite a bruise on my hip from hiking
way out as I went airborne and returned smartly/suddenly to the post wave
trough.
Happy
sailing- keep in touch.
------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 6 Dec 2001
Hello
i have
just bought my 1st boat a banshee 77 but the last owner has lost the tiller
, rudder and center-plate. can you help me out with some plans or patterns
so i can make these three items
Thank
you , for you help
Crackles
------------------------------------------------------------------
Hi
Crackles,
for
dimensions
of daggerboard (center-plate)
Good
luck, Steve
------------------------------------------------------------------
Craig
(CRACKLES),
Thanks
for the jpgs of your Banshee. She looks to be in remarkably good condition
for her age. Still has a Banshee sticker on the transom! First time I've
seen that.
I'll
check the measurements if the tiller and extension and get them back to
you. I don't know that a rudder without the metal sides will work-- the
metal housing connects directly to the transom wall gudegons (metal bands
on the aft wall). You may want to explore purchasing a new rudder assembly
from Abbott Boats in Canada.
On
your question about the broken plastic "rubrail"-- Man, I wish I had an
answer. My rubrail is fractured all over too. I have double and triple
glassed the top of the transom to prevent water penetration but you must
be diligent in this area. The mast step (interior mast base area) is a
frequent repair site on the Banshee. Keep your mast step pin in place and
keep the mast column free of cracks by reglassing the column via the inspection
port.
Later,
Steve
------------------------------------------------------------------
To:
sbonham
I just
found your web page for the Banshee. It has some good info.
For
your info I attached a
brochure for the Banshee for 1978. I bought my boat in 1978 and still
have it. I live by Murray KY (west end of KY).
If
you would like to get together this summer and do some sailing with our
boats let me know. Maybe we can find a lake about half way between us to
meet. Maybe we could start a yearly gathering for Banshee's for the East
Coast.
Rob
Sorg
------------------------------------------------------------------
Hey
Rob,
Thanks
for the Banshee brochure info. It is an update of the 1976 brochure I have.
I'll add this version to the website too. Interesting that you are in Murray.
My wife and I made a trip up to Kentucky Lake over the Thanksgiving holiday.
We were looking for a lot to build a retirement/summer home on. Loved the
area... but no luck as yet on a place we can afford. How lucky you are
to be so close!
Great
thinking on the Banshee East Coast idea. That would be a lot of fun. You
are pretty centrally located- and there are wonderful camping facilities
in ther LBL- we could do this! What's you summer schedule like? Steve
------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 29 Jan 2002
Steve,?
Thanks
for all the great info last spring.? Really been enjoying the boat.? I
was wondering if you ever replaced the rubber bumper around the boat??
I'd still like to do that.? I was also wondering if you know where to fin
d a new or used sail??
Happy
winds,
------------------------------------------------------------------
To:
sbonham
I did
some checking around Kentucky Lake and found a spot that would be good
for the Banshee's. Its a day use area with a launch ramp for 2, a dock,
playground for kids, 2 pavilions and it looks like the boats can be pulled
up on the shore and not far from the Moors Resort which has a restaurant.
Its
on a large cove for sailing if the main lake gets to rough to sail. I put
together a web page with links containing info on the area and maps. The
web page is at www.wpr.pair.com/banshee
if you want to check it out. If you have any other ideas let me know along
with what weekend would be good for you.
Rob
Sorg
------------------------------------------------------------------
From:
"Ken Eyerman"
Steve,
I just
read your article on how to rig a Banshee, and I am extremely grateful
that you took the time to put together this wonderful set of detailed instructions.
I am a novice sailor, (grew up on the water, but spent most of my time
on power boats, canoes, and kayaks) but was clueless on how to rig this
boat.
Last
year I built a composite wooden sea kayak from Chesapeake Lite Craft plans
and had a great time doing it. Since then I have also built a small 12
foot canoe/kayak for my kids. Well boat building is contageous. I have
been looking for a project boat and came across an ad for a project sail
boat - make unknown, only 15 miles from my house. Well I brought it home
today for the whopping price of ten dollars. After searching the internet
for serial number databases I finally discovered that I was the proud owner
of a Banshee!
Well
the next search took me to your page and sure enough my boat is a Banshee.
She needs a new transom as the wood has rotted between the fg plies. There
are a few small stress lines in the hull which I think (hope) that a new
layer of 6oz fiberglass cloth with cure. I am following your links to the
advice on this project, but would love to hear about your experience. All
the wood on the boat needs to be replaced. I have the tiller, mast, &
boom (which, as you have encountered, needs to be re-attached to its end
cap / mast connector) but no sail. I also noticed from your instructions
that I will need a mast well gasket (donut) and now I also know where to
get one.
I will
be working on this project during the winter. I will be taking before and
after pictures along the way. Thanks for the great site. The links are
more than I could have hoped for. This morning I was strapping an unknown
boat to the roof of my van envisioning the gueswork required to restore
her, and tonight I have a Banshee and detailed guidelines for her restoration!
Thanks
again. - Ken, Herndon Va.
------------------------------------------------------------------
Hey
Ken,
Congratulations
Banshee owner! Thanks for the nice report. I'm glad to hear that you found
my Banshee website useful.
WoW!
$10 for a Banshee! Now that is a d(st)eal! ;-) Sounds like you've got some
work ahead however. But with your experiences I know you will enjoy it.
Where are you located? and where will you be sailing?
You
are probably correct to suspect the hull stress lines you've discovered.
Are they around the daggerboard well-- or forward of this area (under the
mast well)? The Banshee is pretty sturdy boat but a layer or two or glass
can't hurt.
If
"all your wood" needs replacing you'd better check your air cell flotation
and mast step area too. A dozen "swimming pool noodles" placed into the
side air cells will keep it afloat if the old stuff has disintegrated.
Use a hand held mirror to check it via the inspection port. Old Banshees
often have cracked mast-step columns. It's tough to work in this area but
it can be done as long as you have a lot of patience. It is important to
have strength in this area- as you can imagine a break here could put you
seriously out of business.
I've
had my "bird" about 12 years now. 26 yr. old "Doozie" is showing her age
but still makes me smile on days when we're given a steady breeze. I've
got some suggestions on my website re: transom repairs-- look in the FAQ
area - and search for "transom" -- The rotten plywood is a common occurance
that can be fixed. Two summers ago I cut mine off and built a new one from
scratch- It was not an easy task, and several seasoned Banshee owners have
told me what I did was quite radical-- so do see what others have advised.
Looking
forward to seeing your before, while, and after photos and the progress
reports.
Best
of luck!
------------------------------------------------------------------
Rob,
The
[Banshee
Rendezvous] page looks good.
Let's
do this! Pick a weekend that is good for you and I'll save the dates on my
calendar and promote it on my website. I've no sailing regatta experience
but I've helped with organizing a "Joker's Run" 5k run-walk-- a Bar-B-que
combined with something like that might be fun.
Put
your thinking cap on and let's pull together a schedule.
Steve
............................................................................
Date:
Mon, 4 Feb 2002 23:13:53 -0600 Steve,
How
does July 13 and 14 sound. I also have no experience with running a regatta.
I have been to a few jet ski fest where they had a Bar-B-Que. I will check
out some Bar-B-Que places for pricing and minimum number of persons that is
required for them to cater the event. One activity might be a poker run with
the boats going to 5 marinas on the cove then winning a prize for the best
poker hand. The last one I was on the boaters did not pick up the cards at
the marinas but picked 5 cards from a deck after finishing the run (we had
all day to go to the marinas). We could charge $5 or $10 for the poker run
and the prize could be what ever money was collected for entering the event.
A trip across the lake to the "Rock Quarry" could also be done as a group.
What do you think? Do you have any other ideas for activities.
Rob
............................................................................
Date:
2/4/02 Rob,
I've
got these dates marked. Would we make this a 2 day event then?
Banshee
Rendezvous!
How
about something like this?
Friday,
June 12 Arrivals
Saturday,
June 13 Poker run from Marina A to B to C to D to E
Bar-BQ dinner
Sunday,
June 14 Kids mini Regatta? in age classes?
(I
have 3 Banshee mini sailors [13, 11, 9])
Sailing lessons?
Can
you mark the map to indicate the proposed launching area, the Moors, and the
Marinas?
Let
me search the web for ideas for Poker Run and other sailing events. Sounds
like this could be a lot of fun.
Steve
............................................................................
Date:
Tue, 5 Feb 2002 20:49:22 -0600 Steve,
The
date was in July, I noticed that you wrote June. In June the 13 and 14 is
Wed and Thurs.
The
kids mini regatta sounds good (age classes can be worked out depending how
many kids attend.).
I
don't know about sailing lessons since the people there will have sailboats
and I would think they know how to sail them, unless there is someone to give
a clinic on some type of sailing (racing, sail trim etc.) Since I don't race
I do not know much about racing. If one of your kids needs a boat for the
regatta they can use mine. The poker runs I have been on give you the day
to go the the 5 spots (in any order that you want to go). I had a card punched
to show that I went to the locations. When I had the 5 card punched at the
different locations I turned it in and drew from the card deck for my hand.
Since some of the marinas are hard to sail into without a motor we could trust
the sailors that they sailed to the locations not needing to go into the marinas.
This way we would not need to get people at the locations to punch the card.
The card we had was laminated for the event so it was waterproof. The 5 punches
were different shapes, one for each marina. I thought a two day event would
be good since they can drive after work on Friday. Attend the event on Saturday
and Sunday. Then have time to drive home Sunday evening. That would give them
the choice to sail Saturday and Sunday or just Saturday. I figure Sunday would
be a shorter day so people could drive back home. I can stay as long as anyone
wants to be there on Sunday. I added a area map link under directions with
a map of the resorts/marinas, hotels, and campgrounds. I also added a link
with the Rock Quarry info on it for a possible sail trip. I'm still working
on the dinner part. I used Banshee Rendezvous instead of Regatta to get away
from the idea that it is a race instead of a good time sailing. Any other
ideas on a name. Any other ideas let me know
Rob
............................................................................
Date:
2/5/02 Yep!
Sorry.
I marked the July dates- just misspoke in the msg.
Good
point on the lessons. All sounds good- I too like the Rendezvous naming sounds
"friendlier" ditto on the Poker Run. I'll try to tweak my page in the next
few days and possibly e-mail all the Banshee owners I know about this event.
S
............................................................................
To:
sbonham@gsvms2.cc.gasou.edu Steve,
I
found a place that will provide a Bar.B.Q for $6.00 . This includes BBQ, buns,
sauce,baked beans, potato salad, cole slaw,drinks (soft drinks),and utensils.
They will deliver the items in aluminum pans (disposable) to the launch area.
It is then self serve or we serve it, they will serve it but it cost more
(extra $1.00 per person but at least 25 people are needed). The price is for
25 to 50 people however he did say that he will do it for 15-20 people if
he just deliver the food. I did some driving around and there are launch ramps
by Big Bear Resort, Macolm Creek Dock, King Creek Resort,Barge Island Rec.
Area, and the Rendezvous put in. All the launch ramps are easy to sail to.
For a Poker Run we could put a punch by each of the launch ramps and have
the sailors punch a card to show that they were there during the day. Punches
could be by a sign saying Banshee check point. I have a lot of old life vests
that could be used for the kids regatta course.
If
you have e-mails for owners that would be good. As we add or change things
I can add it to the web page. If you come up with anything else let me know.
Rob
............................................................................
From:
jpinsky@realnetsolutions.com Hello,
Steve,
I
came across your website while researching the Banshee in consideration of
purchasing one.
I
recently acquired Banshee #7042 from a fellow named Kevin Coates, who bought
it new from a dealer in Wisconsin in 1983. The boat is in remarkable condition,
almost new. Most of the wear is in the edge of the daggerboard, which has
a few nicks. The boat came with the rainbow sail, in good condition, and a
small dolly that hooks onto the rudder gudgeons. I paid $1100 for her.
Kevin
sailed the boat on Lake George in Upstate New York for many years. He had
the boat in indoor storage for the last five years because he no longer used
it. That explains why she is in such fantastic shape.
I
live in Long Island, NY, about 60 miles east of Manhattan, in a place called
Coram. Long Island is a great place to own a sailboat like the Banshee, with
the LI Sound to the north and the Great South Bay on the south shore.
I
wanted to get your opinion on installing automatic suction bailers in the
Banshee. Since the cockpit is not self-bailing, it seems like it might be
worth it. Everything I have read on the Banshee indicates that boat will take
on moderate amounts of water when the breeze picks up. Do you use automatic
bailers, and if you do, which ones? What size? Do they work well?
-Jacob
Pinsky
............................................................................
Date:
2/7/02 Hi
Jacob,
Congrats
on your new Banshee. What a nice find! Sounds like a great place to sail too.
On
the bailer question-- I installed bailers on my Banshee near the end of this
past summer. I chose to install one 4" (super mini; about $65) bailer. APS
(Annapolis Performance
Sailing) sells these in 3, 4 and 5 inch models. I've only had it in the
water a few times since-- and I'm sorry to say that I could not tell if the
bailers were doing anything... I only had an inch or so of water in the boat.
Mike Salmon (another Banshee open water racer of Florida) swears by them.
I
too was concerned about how much water the Banshee can ship in a single wave.
I've taken a cockpit full (about 5 inches = 80-100 gallons!) in squalls on
occasion. I can assure you this is no fun to clear this amt of water with
a scoop bailer.
You
can find the Anderson bailers at: http://www.apsltd.com/depts/dept278.asp
best
of luck,
Steve
............................................................................
To:
sbonham@gsvms2.cc.gasou.edu Steve,
For
pricing I was thinking of $7.00 per person that includes the meal and $15.00
for the meal and poker run.
That
was only those in the poker run pay for that event. That will allow money
to buy a trophy for the poker run (I will check on trophies). The remaining
money could be used for any extra expenses that come up with what ever is
left added to the prize for the poker run. I added a registration page to
the web site. If you have any other ideas on pricing or anything else let
me know, I can always change the web page.
Rob
............................................................................
From:
jpinsky@realnetsolutions.com Hi
Steve,
Do
you have an e-mail address for Mike Salmon? I'd like to ask him some questions
about the bailers. Somebody on ebay actually has an Elvstrom bailer, 3" x
51/4" on auction. The Elvstrom bailer looks like an Andersen. However, the
size specified in the auction does not match any of the Andersen sizes on
the APS. Anyway, the starting bid is only $6.99, and they want $6.50 to ship.
You
mentioned you installed one bailer. Where did you position it? What was involved
with the installation?
............................................................................
Date:
2/10/02 Sounds
like a good deal.
Mikes
e-mail is: "Mike Salmon" <salmon@fau.edu>
............................................................................
Date:
2/11/02 Hi
Banshee sailors,
Rob
Sorg <captrob@juno.com> of Murray, Kentucky has a great idea! He's organizing
two days of Banshee sailing and socializing with other Bird Boat owners and
families on wonderful Kentucky
Lake (1.5 - 2 miles wide and 40+ miles long) that is centrally located
to those of us east of the Rockies. The plan is still evolving (We'd love
to hear your ideas) but the focus is on sailing fun and face-to-face Banshee
talk.
The
dates: July 13 & 14, 2002
Events:
A Poker Run "race"
Youth Regattas
Bar-B-Q dinner
Rob
is putting together a website for the event- There are maps, info on accomodations,
etc. at: http://www.wpr.pair.com/banshee/
I've
recently visited Kentucky Lake-- it is awesome-- absolutely huge. A great
place for such an event.
Hope
you can join in,
Steve
............................................................................
Date:
Mon, 11 Feb 2002 18:24:27 -0800 (PST) Hi
Steve-
The
weekend sounds great. Thanks for the message. Many folks out here on the left
coast will probably be at the High Sierra Regatta at Huntington Lake, California,
Including what we hope will be a strong showing of Banshees.
Jim
Moodie, Folsom Lake Yacht Club.
............................................................................
Date:
2/12/02 Jim,
Sounds
like a good time. How far are is Folsom Lake from Bishop, California? My wife
Susan is from there (Inyo County) and we go to visit her Mom every couple
of years. I'd sure enjoy visiting Folsom Lake and meeting Fleet 1.
All
the best,
Steve
............................................................................
Date:
Thu, 14 Feb 2002 16:44:10 -0800 (PST) Dear
Steve,
Folsom
Lake is located near the town of Folsom (Folsom Prison and all that) which
is about 20 minutes east of Sacramento. In the summer time the "Banshee boys"
try to get out on Wednesday nights (about 5:30 or so) for informal racing
and socializing. We would be delighted to meet you and share some water time.
Let me know when you might be down this way.
Jim
............................................................................
From:
"Ken Eyerman" <keyerman@cox.rr.com> Hi
Steve,
Sorry
for the long delay, I had the cable people out to my house twice before I
got my internet service back up!
I
have the entire
transom off now, and can easily check the floatation, believe it or not,
it is still all in tact and even glued to the underside of the deck still!,
My mast step column is fine withone exception, the pin that rests near the
bottom has pulled through one side. I will need to re-glass that area and
re-install the pin.
I
appreciate your help. Here is a link to my make shift AOL free page with my
banshee pics and the other kayaks I have built. Take care, I'll be in touch.
http://hometown.aol.com/customarinecraft/myhomepage/kensbansheeboat.html
[great photos here of Ken doing transom replacement surgery.]
PS
I plan on sailing this in the Southern part of the Chesapeake Bay as well
as Bethany Bay in Delaware where my in-laws have a beach house. I live in
Fairfax County in VA, there are a few small lakes in the area where I am sure
I will do all my testing!
-
Ken
............................................................................
To:
<keyerman@cox.rr.com> Hi
Ken,
Cool-
or I think that is now spelled "kwel!" Thanks for the update. Man-- those
photos bring back some memories of sticky (resin sticky!) hot summer days!
What kind of saw did you use to remove the transom? It/you certainly did a
nice job!
When
you reinstall the pin-- Don't make the mistake I did. I put a full threaded
bolt in there and the mast rocking (fore and aft) action while sailing fairly
chewed a good 1/4 to 1/2 inch deep groove into the mast base. I understand
that the original Banshee "step pin" had a metal sleeve covering the threads.
If you have the sleeve use it-- If you don't have the sleeve buy a new bolt
with threads on the last 1/2" only.
[Mast
step pin assembly from top,
from side]
Keep
me posted on your progress-
All
the best,
Steve
............................................................................
To:
Steve Bonham <sbonham@gsvms2.cc.gasou.edu> Hi,
My
name is Steve Thompson. I have inherited a Banshee from my father, minus
Sincerely,
To:
Steve Thompson <stevedt@attbi.com> Hi
Steve,
I'll
have to measure the mast pieces -- I'll get that info to you tomorrow. I've
heard that a Laser has a similar mast- A fellow Banshee owner wrote a couple
of years ago that his son turned turtle and the mast and boom went to the
bottom of the lake. Lost the rudder too! He bought a Laser mast and boom and
it seemed to match up.
I'll
look for his e-mail address too. He might have more info by now.
Steve
............................................................................
From:
jpinsky@realnetsolutions.com Hi
Steve,
Hope
all is well with you and yours.
I
did a dry rigging run on my Banshee today, in preparation for taking her out,
I hope, this coming Sunday for the first time.
I
noticed after I rigged the boat and hoisted the main that, if I let the boom
out as far as it could go, imitating a run, there was insufficient mainsheet
to have the boom go perpendicular to the boat. I measured my mainsheet, and
it is 25'. I then read in your rigging guide that your mainsheet is 25' long
too. Hasn't this caused you a problem? With my boom out all the way the mainsheet
stop know was jammed up against the swivel cleat. I think a 35' mainsheet
would be better, especially if you are sitting farther aft and need to hold
the sheet.
Also,
do you know offhand the diameter of your Cunningham and vang control lines?
-Jacob
Pinsky
............................................................................
Date:
5/2/02 Hi
Jacob,
Sounds
like a good weekend ahead!
My
mainsheet is 25'- In a run the boom is pretty much perpendicular to the centerline.
You could try a line a bit longer but I would be very careful. It seems to
me that going beyond the 90 degree angle might put undue pressure on the mast-boom
hardware. If the boom is resting against the mast a good blow might have so
much leverage the foremost end-plug will part from the boom. Be careful!
My
C-ham is 1/4 inch (overdone!) and my vang is 3/16" Spectra. Here that runs
about .70/foot. 10' should be plenty for the vang.
Good
Breezes!
Steve
............................................................................
From:
jpinsky@realnetsolutions.com Hi
Steve,
Took
the Banshee out today and learned first hand what the deathroll is on a run.
The
wind was blowing onshore about 10 to 12, with higher gusts. I debated whether
to take her out, but decided to try it.
The
boat is a maniac, very powerful and very touchy. Much different from my old
Snark. I nearly capsized twice, and the second time it happened I was scrambling
up the windward side getting ready to jump onto the centerboard. I need to
develop the feel for the balance of the boat, and learn when to ease the mainsheet!
Needless to say, I shipped a ton of water. Luckily, I was pretty close to
shore so I used the daggerboard to kind of anchor the boat in the mud and
spent about 5 minutes bailing out. Could have sure used those self-bailers!
Anyway,
I think I am in for a fun summer, once I know what I am doing.
-Jacob
Pinsky
............................................................................
Date:
5/2/02 Yowza!
Sounds
like you had a handful. Yeah-- a run in a Banshee can be very pecarious especially
if the wind is swirling and gusty. I've been there more than a few times.
Now I do my best to avoid a direct run and gybe acoss to broad reaches instead.
If you practice making S's going downwind you'll get the hang of it.
You
should go ahead and capsize her too. Righting your Banshee is delightful-
a challenge but FUN too. If you are not sure how to right your boat see
my daughter do it .
Hang
in there!
Steve
............................................................................
From:
"penni gruber" <gruber@intergate.com> Thanks
for the very informative page on rigging your Banshee. I just found am old
Banshee hull and am starting to rebuild it.
Jay
Earlywine ............................................................................
Date:
Tue, 14 May 2002 08:26:30 -0700 Steve,
I
visit your site often to get ideas on how to rig my Banshee. For the first
day out for the season, I tried using the halyard instead of struggling with
installing the mast with the sail fully raised. It was a very windy day, so
it helped with launching, and also when I came in after the sail and I could
drop the sail. Great method especially if there is no one around to help.
Unfortunately toward the end of the sail on a really gusty day, the tiller
started feeling heavy, and the shock cord I use to keep it down wasn't enough
to hold it there anymore and it kept rising half way. I brought it in and
raised the rudder to find that it had split down the center and I now have
something resembling a "V" rudder (fiberglass rudder if you're wondering).
Total failure of the bond between the two rudder halves all the way up to
the aluminum structure. Great way to start the season isn't it?
My
transom is in need of repair also, but it was still working after some temporary
fixes. Since I'm out of commission now with the rudder problem, I might as
well get to work on that too. Hopefully I can get it together before the summer
is over!
Have
you seen any pictures of the transom repairs that other people have done?
What do you think about using just epoxy to re-bond the rudder (original method?)
as opposed to getting some matte into the picture?
After
these repairs are completed, I'm thinking of re-painting the entire boat.
Any paint suggestions?
One
last question. My bumper strip around the boat is cracked, broken, missing,
etc. Any ideas on a replacement product?
Also,
I'm in Foster City CA where the boat was originally built, so if some of the
people that were involved in this are around, I'd love to talk to them if
possible.
Thanks
for the help and the great web site!
Matt
P.S.
I plan on documenting my repairs with some digital pictures and would be happy
to send them to you when they are complete.
............................................................................
Date:
5/14/02 Hey
Matt,
Man!
when it rains... as they say.
Glad
you liked the rigging stuff. Sorry to hear about the rudder and transom woes.
Wow, I have not heard of this happening to a glass rudder. I've had a few
adventures with my wooden one tho! Yeah. I'd go for the easy fix first. Roughen
up the mating edges of the pieces and bondo (or epoxy) those things. Sand
smooth. Wax it to a smooth finish! That *ought* to hold it for a good while.
I
have never seen photos of other repaired transoms... or the process. I wish
I had documented mine. How bad is yours? Is it dry or wet rot? and how extensive?
You can pinch the area between fingertips and pretty much determine the extent
if it is wet. It will feel like firm sponge between the hard glass layers.
I'd estimate that my transom was about 20% wet-rotted when I discovered it
[see rot.jpg image for location]. Pretty bad! I had stored it over the winter
upside down with the transom sitting on sawhorses. The nose was on a sqaure
of plywood on the ground. A dumb move as it turns out. The water seemed to
have entered via a drain hole crack.
Paint?
I used some white ValSpar on the hull. Same stuff they use to paint Corvette
bodies after a repair. Sand it with 400 - 600 emerycloth until it is excellent.
I only did mine until it was pretty good-- and it's too late to go back. Then
prime it first- battleship grey. It was expensive ($50 for a gallon) for the
white ValSpar but has it has held up well. The stuff is HARD. See your auto
parts guy for advice.
Bumper
(rubrail)? I need a new one too. Havn't been able to find a replacement that
can be riveted like the original. Check with Annapolis
Perfomance Sailing. The rail is 5/8" inch if I remember right. I suspect
that it will need to be riveted back on to maintain deck/hull bond.
On
California Banshee sailing community- check out the Fleet 1 gang (Folsom Lake,
California) they have always been helpful to me. They (and an e-mail link)
are at: http://www.geocities.com/banshee_fleet_one/
Try Skip Stanyan if you can find him.
Breezes,
(and yes do send pictures and notes of the fix-ups. Others will appreciate
it.)
Steve
............................................................................
From:
"Franklin Propst" <prop809@bellsouth.net> Hi,
I
note that you have at least one note about a source for the rubrail on a Banshee.
If you were successful in finding a source, would you share it with me?
Thanks,
Frank
Propst
............................................................................
Date:
5/28/02 Hi
Frank,
Sad
to say- not really...
There
are places
that sell rubrails (West Marine and APS) links to both on my Banshee webpage
that might fit but getting them on is another matter.
Let
me know if you find a solution.
Good
luck,
Steve
............................................................................
From:
jpinsky@realnetsolutions.com Hi
Steve,
Well,
I finally capsized my Banshee yesterday, out in wind conditions that I probably
should not have taken on, and lost my rudder because I neglected to lash it
to the boat as I usually do (I did have the daggerboard bungeed in, which
saved it). I also discovered that that my boat leaks. Although she initially
stayed vertical in the water, she eventually starting listing over and nearly
turned turtle. I was unable to right the boat because of the weight of the
water in it and had to get assistance.
So,
now I have two problems. One is to locate the leaks into the flotation compartments,
the other is to get a new rudder.
Any
ideas on the latter? Unfortunately, I lost it in 30-50ft of water, so there
is little chance of recovering it. I will probably have to have a new one
made up. Any ideas as to who I could turn to for a new one? Thanks.
-Jacob
Pinsky
............................................................................
From:
"Jacob Pinsky" <jpinsky@realnetsolutions.com> Hi
Steve,
I
have written to Abbot about the rudder, just to get a price estimate. I am
also going to see if I can talk to local divers about trying to do a recovery.
It might also be possible to drag the bottom in the area I went down to see
if I can recover it. However, I am not exactly sure where I actually went
over, so it could be some job to try and recover it.
I
am wondering if the water got in either, as you say, via the top of the mast,
or perhaps through the mast step as I went through the gymnastics of trying
to right the boat. When I was driving the boat home, every time I put the
brakes on, water poured out around the white square section in the foredeck
that houses the mast step. I am going to investigate all the possibilities.
My
question is, how do you get up on the daggerboard? As I was floating in the
water, I was reviewing everything I read on your site about recovering from
a capsize. Try as I might, I could not get up onto the daggerboard from the
bottom side. At that point, I tried to do it from the cockpit side. Perhaps
my weight, about 195lbs, is what pulled the mast step down to the level of
the water and filled the compartment, because that is when the boat started
to list over.
-Jacob
............................................................................
Date:
6/4/02 Jacob,
See
an animated gif of the righting process (via daggerboard) at <http://www2.gasou.edu/cet/Banshee/Misc/right.gif>
At
195 you will most likely be able to right the boat from the water- without
attempting to climb onto the daggerboard. You may well sink her by doing that.
Just do a chin up on the end of the daggerbrd and hold on for 20 seconds or
so-- that should bring it over. I can often right the boat this way if conditions
are calm- and I only weight 135.
Another
idea-- if the boat is still difficult to right from in the water. You can
create a "cheatsheet." It worked great for my son. When he was not quite 75
pounds he could right the boat using this set-up. It was a 1/4" line with
a 6" handle (brookstick piece). The total length of the line was approx. 12'.
It was tied in a loop around the daggerboard well. When he would capsize he'd
just release the mainsheet, and toss the "cheatsheet" over the toprail of
the boat towards the daggerboard. Swim around and climb on the daggerbrd,
back up to the tip and lean way back and wait.
See
these two files:
Misc/cheatsheet.jpg
to
see the "cheatsheet" in use.
You
will NOT be able to right the boat from the cockpit side. No way! You are
correct about that. Trying to climb in there will only force the mast deeper
into the water- and risk turtling. That is probably how your Banshee took
on so much water so quickly.
Sounds
like you might want to investigate three areas:
1.
the mast step-pin area of your mast well. You may have openings there that
have allowed water to gain entry rapidly. The bottom of my mast well has the
step pin and maybe slight openings at each end of the pin- but nothing that
would allow water to dramatically enter the hull.
2.
the mastwell-deck joint. Where the white square meets the yellow (mine is
yellow) deck. Inside the hull these pieces are reinforced with some thin sheets
of marine plywood. It is possible that these have dry rotted or that the bonds
between these pieces have deteoriated.
3.
the deck/hull joint (along the rub-rail)- This is where my boat was taking
on water.
[here
is a way to test
the hull/deck area for leaks]
Hope
this helps-- best of luck,
Steve
............................................................................
From:
jpinsky@realnetsolutions.com Hi
Steve,
Thanks
for the info, again. I actually have been thinking of a "cheatsheet" just
as you described for climbing up. Your capsize recover animation is very useful.
Of course, considering the wind condtions on the day I capsized, without a
rudder, even if I had righted her, I am not sure I could have gotten her to
shore. I have never practiced trying to steer a sailboat just using balance
alone.
By
the way, I lost my two lower battens on Memorial day - they just slipped out
of the pockets unoticed while sailing. I ordered two new ones from Annapolis
Performance which came today. Now I discovered that during the capsize I lost
the remaining two battens, so I have to order the upper two. I am going to
have my wife sew velcro strips on the ends of the batten pockets to keep them
closed. Those little flaps that are supposed to secure the battens just do
not cut it.
I
am going to have to call Abbott, as they have not responded to two e- mails
in as many days. Sure hope they can build me a new rudder!
-Jacob
Pinsky
............................................................................
Date:
Wed, 05 Jun 2002 00:47:24 -0700 Steve
-
I
just wanted to thank you for the heads up on the big Banshee outing.
It's
a bit far for me, but I appreciate your efforts anyway. Rob's website put
me in touch with the Folsom YC website, which I have perused. I Hope to get
a little closer to it soon.
Principally
because of your help, I got a lot of use out of my Banshee last summer, up
in Washington State, where I have a friend who lives on Wildcat Lake. I will
be back up that way again this year and hope to repeat, if not to exceed,
that experience. Who knows, I may even stay upright this year?
Thanks
again,
Bud
Kremer
............................................................................
From:
jpinsky@realnetsolutions.com Hi
Steve,
I
picked up a slightly used Laser rudder today, which is somewhat smaller than
the original Banshee rudder. I will have to move the gudgeons to properly
attach the rudder and have enough room for the tiller handle to properly clear
the transom. The whole deal, with tiller, extension, and jam cleat came to
about $300. I also bought an eyestrap to attach to the tiller arm so I have
a convenient place to lash the tiller to.
I
was wondering if you could tell me how much rudder you actually have in the
the water, the length of your tiller and the length of your tiller extension.
I purchased a wooded tiller. but I am afraid it's too long, and I think the
extension might be too long also. Thanks very much if you can help me out.
-Jacob
Pinsky
............................................................................
To:
sbonham@gsvms2.cc.gasou.edu Steve,
Just
to update you on the Banshee Rendezvous, July 13 and 14. We have one guy and
his 10 year old son with a banshee and a friend of his ( with a Chrysler 14
ft. boat), also with a 10 year old son coming. They both will be camping.
The plan so far is to have registration starting at 9 am on Saturday and the
Poker Run during the day. The BBQ will be at 4:30 pm afterwards the poker
hands will be determined and a plaque along with the winnings will be given
out. Sunday we can have a race for the kids which we can discuss on Saturday
(time course etc.). After the race trophys for 1st and 2nd place will be given
out. Looking forward to seeing you.
Rob
Sorg
............................................................................
To:
sbonham@gsvms2.cc.gasou.edu, KentLowry@yahoo.com, From:
captrob@juno.com
I
received this e-mail if anyone knows someone interested.
Rob
Sorg
-I
am up in Illinois and have a nice little Banshee ............................................................................
To:
sbonham@gsvms2.cc.gasou.edu Steve,
In
case you have not found a place to stay the others will be camping at
Big Bear. They also have rooms. In case you are interested. http://www.bigbearkentuckylake.com/
............................................................................
From:
jpinsky@realnetsolutions.com Hi
Steve,
Is
there anyway I could get a set of rudder plans for your wood Banshee rudder,
rudder head, and tiller? At least this way I would have a rudder sized for
the boat. I would compensate you for your time and effort. Thanks.
-Jacob
Pinsky
............................................................................
Date:
6/20/2002 From:
captrob@juno.com
Just
to let you know I added a link to http://www.wpr.pair.com
that takes you some pictures that were taken at the 2002 Banshee Rendezvous
Rob
............................................................................
Date:
Sun, 23 Jun 2002 20:06:31 -0700 So
Mr. Steve,
I
have two Banshees and they are also about 30 years old. My father and
I have sailed them, and had many adventures with them, he is now dead,
and I am now the captain, so to speak. My father was, for a few years,
the local dealer for the Banshee. He purchased several boats directly
from Mr. Reid, who made them in the San Francisco area. As an
aside there is still a healthy club in the Folsum lake region. I have spoken
with them and received their race results. It seems like Sacremento,
Cal., is now the center for the Banshee.
Your
photos and ideas are great. However, we sail in the Gulf of California
or the Sea of Cortez, about 3 hours from Tucson, and our main problem
is getting the boat to the water. The wind is regular, (at times strong).
and the upper reaches of the Gulf are warm and fun to sail on. The
most difficult problem is the high tides, at times 30 feet or
more. However, one of the reasons the Banshee is great is its lightness
and ease of launching. I love the boat and am keeping two old
Banshees alive and sailing. This is not a small task.
Keep
up the good work and the good "stuff" on the net.
Thank
so much for your enthusiasm about the "old" boat, sailing and rigging
it well.
Oh,
for your information, my father and I have designed a beach trailer to launch
the boat. This is a light trailer which goes into the main trailer,
and is light enough to pull to the beach, or have pulled by a
ATV. It make it much easier to launch the Banshee. It is light
enough to drag over the sand. However, we find it much easier
to have a light trailer to roll it to the water line. There is no need
to try to drive my Jeep deep into the soft sand and it is much
easier to get the Banshee near to the Ocean, or the tide line.
Yes,
it is a lovely boat and I have had many hours of great fun sailing up and
down the coast of Northern Mexico. We have a house in Mexico,
and the name of the port or town is Rocky Point or Puerto Penasco, Sonora,
Mexico. The Banshee is a great day sailor and a fun boat to sail in
a light to medium wind.
Thanks,
Tomas
Thomas
G Hippert ............................................................................
Subject:
Sail For Sale Hi
Steve
I'm
selling my Banshee sail. I purchased a laer sail for my boat. The Banshee
sail is in good condition.
The
reason I'm selling it is I lost it in Long Island sound (long story). After
I lost it I boufgt the Laser sail. I was pretty lucky I went back and found
it. The Banshee sail was in the water for 2 weeks. I've cleaned it
and
am asking $175.00 for it. If you Know of anyone interested please let them
Know. Sail # 2072
............................................................................
Date:
6/27/02 Hey
Jacob,
Sorry
about the delay. Got'em!
Go
to:
Misc/rudder_assem01.jpg
Hope
this helps. If anything seems unclear let me know.
Steve
............................................................................
From:
"Jacob Pinsky" <jpinsky@realnetsolutions.com> Hi
Steve,
Thanks
very much! You are terrific, and this is very helpful to me.
If
you could put up with a few more questions...
What
is the spacing/position of the gudgeons on your transom? I wonder if they
match a boat like mine that had a fiberglass rudder. If the tiller is straight
and level, how high above the top of the transom is the bottom of the tiller?
Is
there any way to get a profile of the rudder, i.e. the cross sectional shape,
at the bottom, midpoint and top? If I am going to make a new one, I need to
know how to taper it. If only you could make a mold...I wonder if there is
much of a market besides me for replacement Banshee rudders? :-)
Also,
exactly what is the construction of the rudder blade? Is it a single piece
of hardwood, marine plywood, etc.?
Somebody
contacted me from my post on trailersailor.com and told me to contact Sharron
Hart of Hart Sails in California. It turns out that she sails with a person,
Charlie Hess, who owns the Banshee molds. I am still waiting to hear from
her or Mr. Hess
-Jacob
............................................................................
From:
"Jim Mitchell" <jimmitchell@columbus.rr.com> Do
you have, or know where to get the rigging diagram for a Penguin. My friend
just bought an old one, with no fittings on it.
Jim
Mitchell
............................................................................
From:
Steve Bonham [mailto:sbonham@gsvms2.cc.gasou.edu] Hi
Jim,
No--
nothing specific on an Penguin-- I'm sorry to say. But most dinghies are similar
in some ways. Keep looking at a variety of designs (Banshee, Laser, Lightning,
etc.) and I'm sure you'll figure it out... or maybe find someone who can better
assist.
You
might want to check out the book _Sailing for Dummies_ (one of my favorite
sailing resources I must admit) by JJ Isler, ISBN 0-76450-5039-X. It does
a really good job or contrasting basic designs and rigging/sailing basics.
Good
luck!
Steve
............................................................................
Date:
6/27/02 Hi
Jacob,
My
comments are embedded below.
>What
is the spacing/position of the gudgeons on your transom?
That I'll have to check... look for an answer tomorrow.
I
wonder if
>they
match a boat like mine that had a fiberglass rudder. If the tiller is straight
and level, how high above the top of the transom is the bottom of the tiller?
I'm estimating: 1/2 inch (I'll look at this too) See images at:
http://www2.gasou.edu/cet/Banshee/rig3.html
>Is
there any way to get a profile of the rudder, i.e. the cross sectional shape,
at the bottom, midpoint and top? If I am going to make a new one, I need to
know how to taper it. If only you could make a mold...I wonder if there is
much of a market besides me for replacement Banshee rudders? :-)
market? not likely... but who knows
See the profile of my daggerboard (rudder profile is very similar): Misc/dag_x-sect.jpg
and Misc/dag_info.jpg.
The blunt (leading edge) is gently contoured-- the trailing edge is more pronounced
but overall the thing is basically "flat." Banshee control surfaces are definitely
NOT state-of-the-art hydrofoils .
top:
rectangular 1" x 8" >Also,
exactly what is the construction of the rudder blade? Is it a single piece
of hardwood, marine plywood, etc.?
All
THREE!!! wooden pieces of my rudder assembly are from solid wood planks. I'm
guessing that they are mahogany. NOTE that there are 3 wood pieces (not including
the tiller extension)! I've
color coded the pieces and added a "cross section." The rudders "blade" is
actually two pieces mated within the aluminum rudderhead so that the bottom
piece can "kick-up" if it strikes the bottom.
THAT, I wager, will be the toughest part of building your rudder.
Steve
............................................................................
Date:
6/27/02 Hi
Jim,
No--
nothing specific on an Penguin-- I'm sorry to say. But most dinghies are similar
in some ways. Keep looking at a variety of designs (Banshee, laser, lightning,
etc.) and I'm sure you'll figure it out... or maybe find someone who can better
assist.
You
might want to check out the book _Sailing for Dummies_ (one of my favorite
sailing resources I must admit) by JJ Isler, ISBN 0-76450-5039-X. It does
a really good job or contrasting basic designs and rigging/sailing basics.
Good
luck!
Steve
............................................................................
From:
jpinsky@realnetsolutions.com Hi
Steve,
Thanks
again for all the help. The construction does look like quite a project. The
revised diagram is very good. I think there is enough information there to
build a workable rudder.
While
I am building that, I figured out a way to fit the Laser rudder onto the transom
without changing any of the existing hardware. Basically, I am going to mount
a wooden bracket for the Laser rudder onto the existing gudgeons, and put
the Laser gudgeons on the bracket. The Laser rudder is quite a bit smaller
than the Banshee, so it will be interesting to see what it does to control
performance.
I
will keep you update on my progress. Thanks again for everything.
............................................................................
Date:
6/28/02 Morning
Jacob,
Check
out the following 3 new photos which may help.
Misc/rudder_assemb_photo.jpg
Also
a few measurements of interest (see updated Misc/rudder_assem01.jpg
for measurements in illustrations):
distance
from top of rudderhead (aluminum) to top of pintel strap: 3/4" distance from
top of upper pintel strap to top of lower pintel strap: 6&1/8" distance
from top of rudderhead to pivot point in lower rudderpiece: 5" distance from
leading edge of rudderhead to pivot point in lower rudderpiece: 5"
Have
a good one,
S
............................................................................
From:
"Jacob Pinsky" <jpinsky@realnetsolutions.com> Steve,
You
have gone above and beyond the call of Banshee duty! Very appreciative of
your help and information.
When
I get the Laser rudder mounted, I will let you know and send some pics of
how I did it. It's supposed to be nice this weekend, so I am hoping to get
some time to work on it between other activities.
My
biggest concern with the Laser rudder is it not having enough control surface
in the water to effectively steer the boat. So, other idea is to make a rudder
close in size to the Banshee rudder and retrofit it into the Laser rudder
head., avoiding the need to create a new rudder head.
Anyway,
it all depends on how the Laser rudder works out for the boat.
Take
care.
-Jacob
............................................................................
Date:
Sun, 07 Jul 2002 21:48:03 -0700 Hi
Steve,
Wow..We
got an old Banshee and it is all kinds of fun and my daughter and her boyfriend
are learning. Your page is OUTSTANDING...thanks so much.
I
am wondering if you have ever heard of a way to reef the main....to help them
practice and for high winds?
Just
a wondering.
Thanks
Gary
Stebbins
............................................................................
Date:
7/15/02 Hi
Gary,
Thanks
for your comments. I asked this same question myself about 5 years ago. In
a word the answer is no. The main is not designed to be reefed. However at
least one person has wrapped the main sheet about the mast to reduce sail.
The problem with this is that the mainsail CANNOT be lowered then- and it
would be tough to do "furl" the mainsail like this in high winds anyway. Beginners
should sheet out and not cleat the mainsheet.
I'd
suggest that they find a protected cove and on a day when the winds (light-moderate)
are blowing INTO the cove practic
To:
Subject:
Where have You Been?
Date:
Tue, 14 Sep 1999
Dick
Barnes
Lake
Wylie SC
From:
"Cecil Davis Jr."
Subject:
Sails
Cecil
Davis
Date:
Wed, 29 Sep 1999
Subject:
Re: Banshee Daggerboard
To:
banshee
Subject:
My new banshee
Date:
Mon, 25 Oct 1999
To:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: My new banshee
Date:
Sun, 31 Oct 1999
>I
have a handout I made for a sailing class years back. Give me a fax number
and I'll send it on.
>Also
check out: > Banshee Home
From:
Steve C - schai@rust.net
To:
"banshee"
Subject:
Wanted: used Banshee Sail
Whitmore
Lake, Michigan (734) 449 8889
To:
Subject:
Banshee?
Date:
Thu, 6 Jan 2000
Donald
and Rochelle Dahl
From:
Ken Perine
To:
banshee
Subject:
My new Banshee Project
Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000
Subject: Check out Banshee Page - [GREAT TRANSOM REPAIR
ADVICE!!!]
To: kenperin
CC: banshee
To:
banshee
From:
Jonathan Davis
Subject:
For sale
Jonathan
Davis
Rome,
GA
To:
Subject:
Banshee Building Plans
Date:
Sun, 5 Mar 2000
Pedro
Mendonça
Date:
Wed, 8 Mar 2000
Subject:
Banshee rigging
To:
sbonham
Lyle
Cohen
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: Banshee rigging
Steve
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Reefing Banshee Mainsail?
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
RE: Reefing Banshee Mainsail?
>Give
me your fax number and I'll
sketch one out for you.
>If
you have to reef, you should not be out!
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
RE: Reefing Banshee Mainsail?
>you
definitely need a vang; it will obviate the need to reef. You need at least
a 2 to 1 purchase from eyering on boom to eyering on base of mast.
>Mack
-- Fleet one
To:
"'Steve Bonham'"
Subject:
RE: Reefing Banshee Mainsail?
Date:
Tue, 14 Mar 2000
To:
"'Steve Bonham'"
Subject:
RE: Reefing Banshee Mainsail?
Date:
Tue, 14 Mar 2000
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
RE: Reefing Banshee Mainsail?
Attachments:
:Steve's Mac:381:halyard.jpg:
>Steve
> I am very curious about how the mainsail is raised with a halyard. can
you describe this to me?
>
Silver Spring MD
>
PS Do you know of anyone who has a mainsail to sell?
I'
m attaching a jpg illustrating my mainsail-halyard setup. [halyard.jpg]
You shopuld be able to view it with your web browser. My mainsail has a
sleeve not a "sock" luff edge. The head of the sail is open.
2.
Insert the topmast into the base.
3.
attach the halyard to the eyelet at the head.
4.
thread the halyard thru the pulley at the top of the topmast
5.
Insert the mast base into the mast well in the deck.
6.
attach boom, connect outhaul, & mainsheet
7.
attach rudder
8.
shove off and raise mainsail.
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: Reefing Banshee Mainsail?
>Mark
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: Reefing Banshee Mainsail?
>The
national site http://www-swiss.ai.mit.edu/~bentz/haile.html
has a good article on sailing the Banshee in heavy wind. Without a boom
vang you're hosed in heavy conditions, because the boom will rise and lead
to instant instability "death rolls". The boom vang should be set very
tight in heavy winds - set it upwind so it is snug when strapped in on
a beat. Then don't let the sail out too far. In heavy air, one "rule of
thumb" is not to let the end of the boom to go forward of a line even with
the traveler/thwart. If you have a traveler, it should be out all the way
(although most Folsom Lake Banshee sailors don't think adding a traveler
is worth it). If you are pleasure sailing, don't do deep runs - power reaches
are much more fun. Pretend you are a catamaran and do the "wild thing"
(reaches rather than runs).
>Good
luck and have fun!!
>Dean
To:
"'sbonham
Subject:
banshee parts
Date:
Wed, 15 Mar 2000
To:
"Steve Bonham"
Subject:
Re: Reefing Banshee Mainsail?
Date:
Thu, 16 Mar 2000
Subject:
Re: Reefing Banshee Mainsail?
To:
Steve Bonham
Date:
Sat, 18 Mar 2000
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: Reefing Banshee Mainsail?
Steve
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: Reefing Banshee Mainsail?
>one
has reef cringles sewn into the sail but the others do not would be interested
in info about reefing we sail on Heron Lake in New Mexico
>thanks
To:
Steve Bonham
From:
Mike Salmon
Subject:
Re: JC strap???
>Steve
To:
banshee
From:
brian hughes
Subject:
sail for sale ???
To:
Subject:
sail
Date:
Tue, 25 Apr 2000
To:
Subject:
Banshee Class
Date:
Sun, 7 May 2000
From:
Bob Esperanza
Subject:
Banshee site
To:
Steve Bonham
Date:
Fri, 26 May 2000
Subject:
banshee
To:
sbonham
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: banshee
a
pdf version of the same info
Hope it
helps, Steve
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Rigging Your Banshee Updated
Date:
Sat, 3 Jun 2000
Subject:
Banshee
To:
sbonham
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: Banshee
Date:
Mon, 5 Jun 2000
Subject:
Re: Banshee
To:
sbonham
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: Rigging your Banshee
To:
Steve Bonham
Date:
Fri, 9 Jun 2000
Subject:
Re: Rigging Your Banshee Updated
Date:
Tue, 20 Jun 2000
Subject:
new banshee owner
To:
sbonham
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: new banshee owner
To:
sbonham
Subject:
rigging direction
Date:
Tue, 27 Jun 2000
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: rigging direction
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: Thank you for the Rigging Instructions....
Date:
Thu, 6 Jul 2000
Subject:
Re: Thank you for the Rigging Instructions....
To:
sbonham
Date:
Sat, 30 Sep 2000
Subject:
Re: Thank you...
To:
sbonham
Subject:
Banshee rigging
Date:
Fri, 21 Jul 2000
Magnus
Emilsson Wallingford, CT
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: Banshee rigging
Date:
Sat, 22 Jul 2000
Subject:
New Banshee
To:
sbonham
Jay
Lichter Old Lyme, CT.
To:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
sail stays
Date:
Tue, 1 Aug 2000
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: sail stays
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: OK then, battens
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: OK then, battens
>in
my collar they are stays, of course in sails they are battens. thanks for
your patience, things are coming together nicely.
>mike
mairs
>-----
To:
"Steve Bonham"
Subject:
Re: OK then, battens
Date:
Tue, 8 Aug 2000
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: (no subject)
>Randy
Date:
Wed, 23 Aug 2000
Subject:
Ho
To:
sbonham
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: Ho
>R.
Augur
Date:
Thu, 24 Aug 2000
Subject:
Banshee vs Sunfish
To:
sbonham
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: Banshee vs Sunfish
Sunfish
(Vanguard)
Banshee
Length
13'9"
13'
Beam
49"
60"
Draft
36"
(centerboard)
46"
(daggerboard)
Weight
(hull)
140
lbs
130
lbs
Transport
Note:
it takes TWO to get either cartopped!cartop,trailer
cartop,trailer
#
passengers
singlehander
I've sailed a Sunfish
with a couple of small kids on the foredeck in light winds. Successful
with one small adult there too.singlehander
(but can hold 3+)
can hold three adults
(in cockpit) and I've put as many as 5 (<10 years old) kids on it with
me.
mainsail
area (sq ft)
76'
86'
Set-up
time
10 min
20 min
Sailing
ease*
10
9
Ideal
wind speed
5-10
mph
5-15
mph
ease
to right capsize*
10
8; easy
- can't remember capsizing my 70 lb son can right it
Sailing
joy*
6; fast,
easy
9; FASTER,
more on board, easy (on ideal days)
Maintence/Parts
still
making them, parts are easy to get
out
of biz in early 80's, parts hard to find
Date:
Sat, 26 Aug 2000
Subject:
Banshee Info
To:
sbonham
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: Banshee Info
To:
Subject:
RE : Banshee
Date:
Thu, 31 Aug 2000
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
RE : Banshee
X-Attachments:
:Steve's Mac:18422:rudder.jpg:
Rudder-tiller--
I have a bungee connected to the rudder that keeps it down/up. I'm attaching
a sketch [rudder.jpg] of the jury-rig.
To:
"Steve Bonham"
Subject:
Re: Banshee
Date:
Sat, 2 Sep 2000
Andrew
Nye - Banshee sailor ;)
Date:
Wed, 6 Sep 2000 19:20:30 EDT
Subject:
beach launch
To:
sbonham
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: beach launch
Cc:
eppley
Date:
Sun, 10 Sep 2000
Subject:
I went sailing last month in the Sf Bay delta.
To:
sbonham
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: I went sailing last month in the Sf Bay delta.
To:
Subject:
Banshee Derigging
Date:
Sat, 16 Sep 2000
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: Banshee Derigging
If
done *properly* the downhaul should not result in great wear upon the mainsail.
However, as I've described doing this (cleating to the deck on one side
of the mastwell in my rigging guide) there may well be a problem. I've
heard this concern by other Banshee sailors beside you. It seems after
looking at other rigging systems that it would be best to cleat the downhaul
line to a point directly in line with the mast and that that point should
pivot with the boom/mast. My suggestion would be to mount an additional
pulley/cleat combo to the shackle on the mast near the mastwell. I've got
my boomvang there as of now.
Date:
Fri, 29 Sep 2000
Subject:
Thank you...
To:
sbonham
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: boom and mast
X-Attachments:
trailer.jpg
I
use two or three rubber bungees to attach the two mast pieces and the boom
to the top surface of my "Dilly" trailer-- just beneath the hull of the
Banshee. I've placed them inside the boat on a few occasions, but they
do bang around (depending on the road conditions) and will chip up the
glasswork in no time. When "bungeing" (word?/sp?) the pieces to the trailer
it is important to bind them well so that one will not slip out easily.
I use lengths of bungee about 36-46" in length so that I can snake them
around *AND* between each piece. Then I test each by trying to pull it
out from the rear of the trailer. I'm attaching a diagram [trailer.jpg]
of what I try to do to insure non-slip positioning.
Happy
sailing, Steve
>When
you are towing your boat do you just lay the boom and mast inside the boat,
do you attach them to the trailer, or what?
>
Chuck
From:
Kent Lowry
Subject:
Banshee rigging
To:
sbonham
Kent
Lowry Normal, Illinois
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: Banshee rigging
To:
sbonham
Subject:
Removing mainsheet when you are back at the dock
Date:
Wed, 31 Jan 2001
To:
"Steve Bonham"
Subject:
Re: Removing mainsheet when you are back at the dock
Date:
Thu, 1 Feb 2001
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: Removing mainsheet when you are back at the dock
X-Attachments:
:Steve's Mac:18422:boomlift.jpg:
Oh!
Folsom Lake! You lucky guy! The folks there are doing some nifty things.
Steve
Date:
Sat, 17 Mar 2001
Subject:
Banshee
To:
sbonham
Davis
W. CapeCod
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: Banshee
To:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Masthead sheave
Date:
Mon, 2 Apr 2001
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: Masthead sheave
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: Masthead sheave
>The
pulley at the top of the mast that is a little over two inches in diameter.
>Chuck
Okay- got'cha! Check with Layline-
The PDF catalog is at: http://www.layline.com/store/printcatalog/llpg12.pdf
They carry all the Harken blocks at reasonable prices. For this job I'd
suggest either: HARKEN H224 Single block (max. load 200 pounds). $5.91
+ shipping HARKEN H225 Single block with becket (max. load 200 pounds).
$6.84 + shipping I'd get the one with the becket (H225) because I use a
boomlift line on my boat. Do you have a open topped sleeve on your sail?
If so, you might consider using this too. See illustration at: boomlift.jpg
Hope this is what you are after.
To:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
i have never
Date:
Mon, 7 May 2001
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: i have never
To:
Subject:
Date: Sun, 13 May 2001
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: Hi Rick,
To:
Sbonham
Subject:
Banshee value
Date:
Sun, 13 May 2001
Kevin
Coats
Queensbury,
NY
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: Banshee value
To:
"Steve Bonham"
Subject:
Re: Date: Mon, 14 May 2001
To:
"Steve Bonham"
Subject:
Re: Banshee value
Date:
Sat, 19 May 2001
p.s.
Have a terrific sailing season!
To:
"Steve Bonham"
Subject:
Mast
Date:
Wed, 23 May 2001
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: Mast
I
just have a stainless steel bolt (unthreaded -except on the nut end) in
the bottom of my mast well. I don't know that you MUST have a solid "mating"
of the mast notches and the bolt. The mainsheet will keep the boom from
swinging too far starboard or port-- as long as you have a figure 8 knot
in the end. It is essential to have something in the bottom tho... otherwise
the mast may "eat away" the interior of your hull. The bolt preventing
the mast from bottoming out should be UNTHREADED. I had a threaded bolt
in there originally and the bolt seriously chewed into those mast notches
you mentioned as the mast moved fore and aft! Now the sleeve makes perfect
sense! Would I try to replace the bolt and sleeve? NOT unless you feel
that the mast well column is damaged/deteoriating. AND YOU SHOULD CHECK
THIS CAREFULLY! (-- use a flashlight inside the mast well (from outside)
while looking inside the hull via the inspection port). Look for cracks
or thin areas. If there is damage already you'll be faced with adding fiberglass
around the mastwell INSIDE the hull. NOT a fun job.
To:
"Steve Bonham"
Subject:
Re: Mast
Date:
Fri, 25 May 2001
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: Mast
Date:
Sat, 9 Jun 2001
Subject:
new banshee owner
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: new banshee owner
To:
sbonham
From:
"Thomas G. Hippert, P.C."
Subject:
Banshee ideas thanks
Tucson,
Arizona
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: Banshee ideas
From:
William Kremer
To:
sbonham
Subject:
Many Thanks
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: Many Thanks
Date:
Wed, 20 Jun 2001
Subject:
(no subject)
To:
sbonham
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: (no subject)
>Knock/gouge/drill
out the really loose/gooey pieces, dry the remaining wood and treat with
CPES penetrating epoxy, then fill in the holes with our Fill-It epoxy putty.
You may need to make a temporary backing plate when you fill with the Fill-It.
Wrap the backing material with polyethylene plastic and you will be able
to remove the backing plate when the epoxy cures. Grind everything fair
and paint as you normally would.
Let me
know how the repair goes and how she handles!
>http://www.rotdoc.com/index.html#1
>P.O.
Box 30612
>Seattle,
WA 98103
>Tel
(206) 364-2155 or Fax (206) 364-4744 E-Mail: drrot@rotdoctor.com
From:
William Kremer
To:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: Many Thanks
To:
Subject:
rigging guide
Date:
Fri, 22 Jun 2001
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: rigging guide
Date:
Mon, 25 Jun 2001
Subject:
Transom Repair
To:
sbonham
From:
Steve Bonham
Date:
Mon, 25 Jun 2001
Subject:
Re: Transom Repair
[They
do: Sherron Hart Sail Design | 328 3rd Street | West Sacramento Ca. 95605
| 916-371-9067)]
Possibly
Abbott Boats (http://www.abbottboats.com)
can help. Here are addresses for three very active Fleet One members: George
Koch, Dean Eppley, John Poimiroo. Ask them about new sails options. And
let me know what they say? I have found a great sail repair guy tho and
he can certainly fix your batten tear. He fixed a batten tear for me just
a couple of months ago. He does excellent and fairly priced work. He charged
me $50 for the batten repair and made several small unexpected/uncharged
patches as well. His contact info is below. Be forewarned tho that it took
a month. He is a busy guy. Peter LeWando Phone: 252.995.4819 E-mail: windgear@msn.com
He works out of a wind surf/kite board shop on Cape Hatteras, NC RIDE HATTERAS
http://www.ridehatteras.com/ PO Box 309 Avon, NC 27915 (Ride Hatteras owner
is Charlie, his brother is Jim) 252-995-6755 I would like to see the photos.
They could be useful to other Banshee owners.
To:
Subject:
Banshee
Date:
Wed, 27 Jun 2001
To:
"Gary Siegle"
Subject:
Banshee
Date:
Wed, 27 Jun 2001
From:
Larry Combs
Subject:
Banshee
To:
sbonham
Date:
Sat, 30 Jun 2001
Subject:
Bansheeing Again
To:
sbonham
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: Bansheeing Again
To:
Steve Bonham
From:
Sherron Hart
Subject:
Re: sherron?
Sail
Design
328
3rd Street
916-371-9067
Date:
Sun, 1 Jul 2001
Subject:
Rigging
To:
sbonham
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: Rigging
1.)
If the sail has been replaced it may not have had numbers on it. Does the
sail appear to be new?
Where
are you sailing Fran? California?
2.)
If the previous owner sailed in salt water and did not rinse the sail throughly
the adhesive may have lost its grip on the sail material. This is what
happened on my sail. However, in my case you can still see the adhesive
"tracks" and make out what the number was. Look at your sail carefully
and see if this is the case.
To:
sbonham
Date:
Mon, 2 Jul 2001
Subject:
Banshee
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: Banshee
To:
Steve Bonham
Date:
Tue, 3 Jul 2001
Subject:
Re: Banshee
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: Banshee
To:
Steve Bonham
From:
Mike Salmon
Subject:
Re: Banshee bailers
To:
Steve Bonham
From:
Mike Salmon
Subject:
Re: Banshee bailers
To:
Steve Bonham
From:
Mike Salmon
Subject:
Re: Banshee bailers
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
RE: Cc: Bcc: X-Attachments: :Steve's Mac:16:bailers.jpg:
>Kyle
Gross
>APS
>800-729-9767
To:
sbonham
Subject:
RE: elvstrom mini bailers?
Date:
Thu, 5 Jul 2001
From:
Steve Bonham
Sent:
Tuesday, July 03, 2001
To:
mail@apsltd.com
Subject:
elvstrom mini bailers?
To:
Steve Bonham
Date:
Thu, 5 Jul 2001
Subject:
Re: Banshee Rules
To:
Steve Bonham
Date:
Thu, 5 Jul 2001
Subject:
Re: Banshee Rules
To:
Subject:
banshee daggerboard
Date:
Thu, 5 Jul 2001
P7050005.JPG
P7050006.JPG
P7050007.JPG
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: banshee daggerboard
To:
"Steve Bonham"
Subject:
Re: banshee daggerboard
Date:
Fri, 6 Jul 2001
To:
Subject:
sailboat
Date:
Fri, 6 Jul 2001
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: sailboat
http://ucan.foad.org/~elp/mastraising/
Good luck,
Steve
http://www.mv.com/ipusers/whale/q1mastup.html
http://www.trailersailor.com/widget/santana/Mastrais.htm
http://dcwi.com/~nybarra/mast.html
To:
"Gary Siegle"
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: banshee daggerboard
Copies
to: bentz
Date:
Sat, 7 Jul 2001
Subject:
Re: banshee daggerboard
To:
Steve Bonham
Date:
Mon, 9 Jul 2001
Subject:
Message board
To:
Steve Bonham
Date:
Mon, 9 Jul 2001
Subject:
Re: Banshee Rules
To:
sbonham
From:
Brian F Larson
Subject:
Rigging Guide
Date:
Wed, 11 Jul 2001
Subject:
Banshee
To:
sbonham
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: Banshee
Date:
Thu, 12 Jul 2001
To:
sbonham
Subject:
my new banshee
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: my new banshee
---
/ ----_____
/ /
_______________________
| |
| |
| |
| |
---------------------------------------------------------------------
/ /
/ /
/ /
/- /
----_____/
My daggerboard
flexes a little (about 1.5 inches) when I stand on the tip end of it when
righting the boat- but then I am a lightweight at 140 pounds. In most conditions
I find that I can right the boat from the water. Just climbing half-way
onto the board brings it up if I am patient and wait a few seconds for
the water to run off the mainsail. Remember to make sure that your mainsheet
is loose and untangled(!!!!) before doing this! :-) If you are still worried
about the board-- a few options:
1.
Replace it (but a new one at Abbot Boats http://www.abbottboats.com/ I
think a new one is priced about $200
Let me
know what you decide?
2.
Build your own: Design specs at: http://www-swiss.ai.mit.edu/~bentz/rules.html
some addition (visual) suggestions at: dag_info.jpg
3.
Radical option-- Fiberglass over the whole thing (or a new piece of mahogany
or cedar) to make it stiffer. You'll have to grind it down so that it will
fit into the daggerboard well.
Date:
Thu, 12 Jul 2001
To:
sbonham
Subject:
daggerboard
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: daggerboard
From:
doug montgomery
To:
sbonham
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: Banshee mast step pin
1.
Use a flashlight and a handheld mirror to investigate.
Good luck,
Stev
2.
If there is material holding the step pin in place you can probably get
at it by using a sanding drum tip on an electric drill (carefully) to grind
down to metal. Go slow and tap the pin often to check your progress.
Date:
Mon, 16 Jul 2001
Subject:
banshee
To:
sbonham
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: banshee
From:
"michael lane"
To:
"Steve Bonham"
Subject:
Re: daggerboard
To:
Steve Bonham
From:
Mike Salmon
Subject:
RE: bailers
To:
sbonham
Date:
Wed, 18 Jul 2001
Subject:
Daggerboard
To:
Gary_Siegle
Date:
Wed, 18 Jul 2001
Subject:
Daggerboard
From:
doug montgomery
Subject:
mast step
To:
sbonham
To:
doug montgomery
From:
sbonham
Subject:
RE: mast step
----------------
Date:
Mon, 23 Jul 2001
Subject:
Re: mast step
To:
sbonham
CC:
doug montgomery
From:
Lynda Payne
To:
sbonham
Subject:
BANSHEE
Big
Lake Alaska
Sail
This is
going to be a job! I'd start with Abbott
Boats. They have new Banshee parts. Maybe they have access to used
stuff too. New sails can be purchased from HartSails. Sherron Harts' e-mail
is: hartsail@jps.net. Sorry, I don't
have any leads on used sails. Your best bet may be to "build your own Banshee."
Mast
Boom
Daggerboard
Rudder
&
all
the hardware & lines...
Date:
Sun, 22 Jul 2001
Subject:
Re: Rigging
To:
sbonham
To:
Fran Eichler
Date:
Sun, 22 Jul 2001
Subject:
Re: Rigging
>no
mast block....
Best of
luck,
Maybe
you don't need it. Is the mainsail mast sleeve head sewn closed? If so
you have a "sock" design. In that case you don't use a halyard or a block.
Just put your assembled mast (top and bottom pieces) into the mast well;
tip your boat onto it's side (by grabbing the mast and leaning back)..
and then slip the open end of the mainsail sock onto the top end of the
mast. Get help-- putting this thing on might be a challenge. If you do
have a "sleeve" style you simply need a single microblock and a small shackle
to attach it to the "clip eyelet."
sounds
like this might be a problem. I would have it repaired... Or maybe just
put a new grommet in a couple inches above the old one? You can buy grommets
at a Walmart (camping supply area)-- But you may want to try and locate
a stainless steel one via http://www.westmarine.com.
The
shackle attaches the sail to the "slider" that slips onto ther boom outhaul
track. It is not mandatory to have this as I understand it. You could just
use an outhaul line.
[you
can find an abundance of shackles in the APS (Annapolis Performance Sailing)
printed catalog. Ask for one via the APSwebsite.
Good shackles are simply curved bands of stainless steel that close with
a pin. I favor the "captive pin" types-- because I am forever dropping
a pieve of the other variety. Be prepared-- they call this stuff "Boat
Jewelry" for good reason.]
>boomvang...
you
need: about 11' of 1/4 or 3/16" line a fiddle block (over and under double
block design) with a built in jam cleat a double block (side by side) 2
shackles (one to connect each to the mast or boom) See the attached image
[answers.jpg] for more
To:
sbonham
Subject:
Thanks for documenting all your advice - a new question
Date:
Tue, 24 Jul 2001
San
Leandro, CA
From:
sbonham
Subject:
Re: Thanks for documenting all your advice - a new question
Date:
Tue, 24 Jul 2001
Date:
Tue, 24 Jul 2001
Subject:
Re: Thanks for documenting all your advice - a new question
To:
sbonham & Cliff Billett
------------------------------------------------------------------
From:
"Cliff Billett"
To:
"Steve Bonham"
Subject:
Banshee Sailmaker Contact
Date:
Tue, 24 Jul 2001
very
helpful on the phone recently. My friends have sailed with and known
Kame
Richards, who runs Pineapple, for years. He has an original Banshee
pattern
and would be happy to assist Banshee owners with sails. Kame made
the
racing sail for the Banshee I've been working on for a friend. Contact
information
is as follows:
(510)
444-4321
Kame
Richards, Owner (his name is prounounced like Cammy)
Oakland,
California
their
website is: http://www.pineapplesails.com
Contact
them at Info@pineapplesails.com
------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 24 Jul 2001
From:
dennis widman
To:
sbonham
Subject:
Just beginning
interested
in sailing, but never had the time until now. I am looking to
buy
a 13' to 16' sailboat and get started for next season. Your site has
been
very helpful by showing what needs to be done when rigging a
sailboat.
Dennis
Widman
------------------------------------------------------------------
Hi
Dennis,
------------------------------------------------------------------
From:
"Randy"
To:
<sbonham>
Subject:
web page
Date:
Wed, 25 Jul 2001
------------------------------------------------------------------
Okay
Randy,
Find
a Acrobat PDF version of rigging guide at: RigBanshee.pdf
You'll
love it.
------------------------------------------------------------------
From:
"Cliff Billett"
To:
"Steve Bonham"
Subject:
thanks again
Date:
Thu, 26 Jul 2001
been
moved in years.
------------------------------------------------------------------
To:"Cliff
Billett"
From:
"Steve Bonham"
Subject:
Re: thanks again
Date:
Thu, 26 Jul 2001
------------------------------------------------------------------
From:
Lugger
Date:
Fri, 27 Jul 2001 21:08:08 EDT
Subject:
Banshee Page
To:
sbonham
the
way of the dodo. I had one for a few years starting in the early
80's.
My
family grew, and I had to get a bigger boat, but I certainly didn't love
it
as much.
suppose
strength comes back with practice.
Mountlake
Terrace, WA
------------------------------------------------------------------
From:
Sw357
Date:
Sat, 28 Jul 2001
Subject:
Mast Socket
To:
sbonham
Tom
again. Quick question. How loose is the mast in the mast socket? I have
a
piece of neoprene tubing for a ring but things seem to be very sloppy.
Tom
Peloquin
------------------------------------------------------------------
Hi
Tom,
From:
"Steven M Kornblau, M.D."
To:
<sbonham>
Subject:
Banshee #875
Date:
Sat, 28 Jul 2001
church
sale for $100 (they wanted $350 with the trailer but as we live on
the
water we don't need one). It was every bit a $100 boat! $700 later &
I've
nearly finished a major overhaul: repaired two rough patches of prior
hull
damage, patched all dings, primed and painted the deck and hull, sanded
the
wood transom, centerboard, rudder, tiller, side rails, to the base wood
then
epoxy resin coated them, then polyurethane varnish all the pieces, Had
new
teak thwack and centerboard holder pieces made, Got all new Harken
hardware,
replaced all the access hatches, new lines etc, etc, etc.
blue
bird logo but no one knew. Finally today I found a book with sail logos
and
learned it was a Banshee. I found your website and your section on
rigging
is a godsend.
layer)
transom. From reading some of you old e-mails I get the feeling that
perhaps
the transom is not OEM. Any other way to tell what year it is? The
number
on the sail is 875. All attempts to access the hull id pages from
your
site come up blank for some reason.
on
the port side, there is a stainless steel item about 3x6 inches. It goes
through
the hull. There is some sort of wire lever on the top side. It
sounds
like this may be a self bailer? IF so how do these work. If so I have
a
feeling I need to remove the paint from the hull side of it!
replacement
sail?
orange
stains, rust? mold? on them.
around.
Any suggestions? Should it be glued down? If so with what? Should I
just
jam a noodle into the spaces?
on
the web site.
Steve
------------------------------------------------------------------
Hi
Steve,
Your
transom has been replaced or the HIN info has been covered by additional
fiberglass layers. My sail number was 2577 and it was made in October,
1976. The sail numbers do correspond to the manufacture sequence.
You
have a self bailer installed. Probably an Elvstrom mini bailer. I've just
installed one (Anderson bailer) on my boat. As I understand it you simply
flip the lever while underway (you may need to press downward on yours
too) and the water inside the cockpit is sucked out by the vacumm generated
by forward progress. Of course it sounds like you may have to grind a bit
to get thru to it to test it. Careful-- If it has been GLASSED over I'll
bet it was leaking... and you may decide not to bother replacing the gasket.
Not
a replacement-- I don't think, not with the Banshee logo-- Skip Stanyan
may know this one.
I
use some stuff called StarBrite that I bought at a West Marine store. It
removed most of the rust stains I had on mine. Got ride of all the dirt.
It's a good product. You can get most of their stuff online at http://www.westmarine.com.
No
problems with a traveller- It will complicate learning sailing a little
tho. Just lock it down in a centered position initially. I've not used
one so I personally can't speak more about how to best take advantage of
it. I'm assuming that running, broad reaching, and beating will be easier
to do...
Yeah.
I'd wedge several noodles into your side cells to hold the existing stuff
in place. Careful on gluing it- Fiberglass resin might well melt it for
instance.
Nope.
I don't know of any Banshee owners in Texas. But I bet they are out there.
You might make some calls to the local sailing organizations and inquire
about their sub 15' classes. Which of the lakes are you going to sail on
in Texas?
Steve
From:
Lugger
Date:
Sun, 29 Jul 2001
Subject:
Re: Banshee Page
To:
sbonham
and
rowing boats several times a year. It's all fun. We see bald
eagles
(yep,
right here in the big city), herons, various coots, ducks, geese,
diving
birds, swallows, and jumping fish. Haven't seen any turtles yet this
year,
but I think we will before we're done. There are also beaver houses
and
other signs of their work, but you almost never see one. We have
otters
locally,
too. I've seen several but never from the kayak.
a
little 12 to 14 footer one of these summers. I am a little bit daunted
by
the
task and may never actually get it done. I really do love to sail,
though,
so may get back into it one way or another. My wife and son both
perfer
to paddle.
Have
Fun!
------------------------------------------------------------------
To:
"Steve Bonham"
Subject:
More on Banshee #875
Date:
Mon, 30 Jul 2001
of
necessary parts which I hope to pick up today. Then maybe we will launch
on
Tuesday evening. I'm trying to squeeze it in before I go on a trip.
Clear
Lake or Galveston Bay.
someone
associated with the early space program. Could have been an
engineer,
which would explain the extra hardware (traveler, self bailer,
etc).
I suppose the kids grew up and the boat fell into disuse.
have
been replaced. Based on what colors I saw while preparing it for
painting
it seems that the top had also been painted a teal green over the
original
sky blue. Some of the access hatches were original (front of
cockpit
and one on each side, that means that the plastic was so old that it
crumbled
when you touched it. Other access hatches (top in front of the mast
&
two small 4 inch side hatches) were new, and from the photos in the
original
sales brochure appear to have been added later.
weeks
ago on the hull side. It should be pretty simple to remove that and
see
if it functions. How large is the opening when it's in the open
position?
cannot
figure out. At the base of the mast there are two small blocks, one
on
each side (where you show your halyard block & the cleat opposite it
in
picture
15). When I got the boat there was a line running from a cleat (just
like
the cleat in picture 15) positioned on the side (about where you have
two
clam cleats on doozie (pics 1 &15 & 18) to the block at the base
of the
mast
up to another pair of blocks, each attached to one end of an inverted U
shaped
piece of metal (about 3-4 inches long & 1.5-2 inches wide) and then
down
to the block on the other side of the mast and finally on to another
cleat
opposite the first. This line was about 14 ft long. I did not get a
halyard
or Cunningham line with the boat. I've wondered if the inverted U
shaped
piece could have gone through one of the metal holes in the base of
the
sail to serve as the downhaul? Of if maybe the halyard and Cunningham
were
cleated down along the side of the boat, instead of being at the base
of
the mast? I cant see what the advantage of that would be. Any ideas what
this
was for? What do you use the side cleats for on the doozie?
Is
that a prerequisite for owning a banshee, or just a strange coincidence?
I'm
a hematologist oncologist specializing in Leukemia and marrow
transplantation.
What is the academic affiliation of the other edu people?
I'll
send you a picture when we are finished.
To:
"Steven M Kornblau, M.D."
Subject:
Re: Banshee Page
Date:
Sat, 28 Jul 2001
1.
an ingenious
cunningham system (cool idea)
2.
a J-C strap (see Mike Salmons rigging info
<http://www-swiss.ai.mit.edu/~bentz/rigging.html>
for
his description of this thing).
Or
3.
maybe the previous owner did something I've been thinking
about--
found a way to attach control lines for jib sail???
------------------------------------------------------------------
From:
"Steven M. Kornblau, MD"
To:
"Steve Bonham"
Subject:
RE: Banshee #875
Date:
Tue, 31 Jul 2001
pictures).
If I can cut out early enough & convince my boss, who is an avid
sailor
to join me & teach me what to do, I might get it in the water today.
I've
also attached an out of focus shot of the auto bailer. Like yours, I
could
not get it to open manually. I'll LYK how it goes.
Steve
Wow!
------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 31 Jul 2001
Subject:
Re: Banshee #875
To:
sbonham
Date:
Tue, 31 Jul 2001
Subject:
Boom to Mast connection.
To:
sbonham
fixing
up off and on for the last year. One of my last tasks is to fix how
the
gooseneck fitting fits into the boom. On your instructions on how to rig
the
Banshee Part II (4th PIC from the top) Their is a great view of the boom
end
that attaches to the mast. Could you give me a quick run down on what
you
did to make that stainless steel pin stay in the boom? Any insight that
you
could give would be very helpful.
Colorado
Springs from 1998 - 2000. My buddy was looking in the paper and saw
a
sailboat for sale. I went to check it out. The boat was in rough shape
it
had
not been registered since 91. The boat was sitting up against the house
and
covered in dirt. There were two large fiber patches on the hull (A very
poor
job was done), and someone just splattered fiber glass resin all over
the
hull. But at $150 with a trailer I felt I could bring this tired ship
back
to life.
was
time to build a people size boat.
and
the sail seemed like it was in OK shape. I put the boat in the garage and
started
sanding on the hull to get that nasty fiber resin off the boat and
see
if there were any holes that I would have to patch. A month later I was
done
sanding and the hull looked great. All I did was put o few coats of a
resin
called "glove-it" to seal any holes and scratches and to provide
strenght
and then I painted the hull a nice bright red.
Next
I worked on the deck and painted it white using the same process that
I
used on the hull. I finished the boat a week before I moved to Phoenix
for
school.
On the way down my trailer lost a tire and the hull sustained a
little
damage, but nothing I can't fix. Needless to say it is still in
Colorado
at my in-laws house. I plan on bringing it down to Phoenix in the
near
future, doing the neccessary repairs and then sailing it on the water
for
the first time.
information
that you could provide. My e-mail address is
[deleted]
. Feel free to contact me at any time.
From:
"Burton Revell"
To:
sbonham
Subject:
Banshee Griffon
------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 6 Aug 2001
From:
"Burt"
To:
"Steve Bonham"
Subject:
Re: Banshee, Griffon
Do
you think it worth the price difference when another guy is asking $550
for
his Banshee. Both with trailers. Do you think think the Gryphon could
be
cartopped easily? Would the hull shape difference be good or bad?
Thanks,
Burt
------------------------------------------------------------------
Burt,
I
paid $500 for my Banshee (and trailer) 10 years ago. It needed work: cracks
in hull; weak spots in transom. Lines needed replacing and such. A like-new
Griffon might be worth 2200! If I could buy a NEW Banshee-- I'd pay 2k!
Steve
From:
k flowerday
Subject:
banshee tips
To:
sbonham
instructions,
very professional. What a service to the uninitiated.
use
it. I set it up once by the seat of my pants in the front yard on the
trailer
and did pretty well, but your tips and details will help immensely.
The
greatest confusion was from a halyard only about 18' long. I had to
step
the mast with the sail hoisted. It was a solo Iwo Jima effort: scary
and
difficult. At water level, this should be much easier.
block
is from the illustration, but I have a couple of questions: 1) does
it
matter where I put the double block on the boom? and, 2) what is a
"thimble"?
Lincoln
High School
------------------------------------------------------------------
Hi
Linda,
2.
Grab your mast and tip your boat on it's side- it will stay there once
the mast touches ground.
3.
Slip your mainsail onto the mast base
4.
mate top mast with mast base (make sure that top mast block is aft)
5.
run halyard from sail head to topmast block
6.
hang onto the (to be cleated) end of your halyard while you push your mast
verticle again to right the boat-- the sail will be hoisted if you still
have that short line.
Lincoln,
Neb?
To:
"Steve Bonham"
Subject:
RE: Banshee #875
Date:
Sun, 12 Aug 2001
3
of the 4) today (along with some chain to lock it to our dock, wax, rubber
plugs,
gloves,...ka ching, ka ching, ka ching goes the cash register) & I've
been
reading sailing for dummies. I need to set a date to take it out ASAP
with
one of my friends with sailing experience that is willing to teach me
how
to go out and more importantly how to get back home!
"gorgeous"
wood in the picture I sent. I sanded down all of the wood till
all
of the old finish was removed then applied ~3 coats of epoxy resin
followed
by 2-3 coats of UV protecting polyurethane (Interlux goldspar). It
was
a ton of work & I made some mistakes with the epoxy that required
resanding
and recoating, but I think it was worth it in the end.
(mine
is useable but tweaked) but have not heard back from them. Any
suggestions.
available.
------------------------------------------------------------------
To:
"Steven M Kornblau, M.D."
Subject:
RE: Banshee #875
Date:
Mon, 13 Aug 2001
<abbott@ebtech.net>
Phone
numbers are below:
Abbott
Boats Inc.
1458
London Road
Sarnia,
Ontario
N7S
1P7
Canada
Pho:
(519) 542 - 2771
Fax:
(519) 542 - 2324
Steve
------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 14 Aug 2001
From:
Ken Flowerday
Subject:
Re: banshee tips
To:
Steve Bonham
got
my Banshee out yesterday--almost no wind--perfect for a maiden voyage.
All
went well. I discovered I have a simple vang already! I still don't
know
what a thimble or a becket is. [see a becket.jpg
here] The friend that I got the boat from
stopped
by and told me everytime he used the boat, he simply clipped the
top
of the sail to the top of the mail and "hoisted" the sail as he stepped
the
mast. I used a halyard...much preferred this approach.
but
pretty muddy in this part of the state. Plenty of wind. Yesterday was
an
anomoly. Out west we have some nice sand-bottom lakes. We'll see.
Lincoln
East High English Dept.
Lincoln
East High Gifted Facilitator
Lincoln,
NE
------------------------------------------------------------------
Hi
Ken,
------------------------------------------------------------------
To:
sbonham
From:
Marijn -Priv
Subject:
Europe's only Banshee?
Date:
Wed, 22 Aug 2001
looking
for. I think my Banshee will be needing a a lott of fixing this winter.
Ofcourse,
all
the known problems, as mentioned on this site, so I've printed all your
comments
and
made me a projectplan, with a shopping list included. Thanks for all that.
my
sailing area are the lakes of Loosdrecht. Never heard of them?
That's
not strange: you can find them in The Netherlands, Europe. I just might
be
the
only Banshee-owner in Europe! (or does anyone know better?). My Banshee
was
bought by my uncle, Chris van Heeswijk, in Lubbock Texas, I think in the
late
70's
or the early '80. He lived there for about a decade, because of his job
at Texas
Instruments.
Later he moved back to Europe (Munich, Germany) and decided to take
the
boat with him. I guess he was a Banshee freak, like many of you guys...(or
had to
fill
up his container).
got
real sick, we stayed over at his place and he gave us the Banshee. He never
sailed
it
anymore but wanted to keep it in the family. So you understand I'll never
sell it, and
I
want to restore it in its old glory.
color
: white outside / red on top / white inside (originally red) Are all Banshee
bi-colored?
self
made (broke it on the shore), the sail is from a pretty simular boat (lost
it in very heavy wheather...).
name
: no name. I'd like to restore the full red color and name it "Red Devil".
Especially
because my uncle allways told me "We RedHeadeds got to stick together,
sun".
so
I can use the reefs. But I must say, a Banshee just sails best with a bit
too much wind.
lower
side of the boat. But at the rear end of the boat it hits the back wall,
what makes
it
go in the boat. This way my Banshee get full everytime. Have you heard
about it? Is this
a
bug or a feature? Thanks for your website and enthousiasm. Now I know I'll
NEVER sell it.
Greatings
from Utrecht, The Netherlands. Marijn van Heeswijk ps: sorry for my small
knowledge
of
english sailing words.
2.)
Black Bumper (we call this a rubrail). I need to relace mine too.
3.)
Red Devil! I like the name - what would that be in Dutch? I think your
uncle would be quite pleased.
4.)
HINnumber - It should be on the left (or maybe right) rear side of the
transom wall. If it is not there it may well have been covered by additional
layers of fiberglass and red paint.
5.)
Reefed mainsail! What kind od sail do you have? Does it have an insignia
(symbol) on it? Others may be interested in possible replacement sails.
I agree too that the Banshee is meant to fly! I wish my sail was BIGGER!
6.)
Hmmmm- water rolls gently over the lower side of the boat. Marijn, either
you've been eating too many "Pomme fritts" ;-) or your flotation system
needs some attention. Sounds like a bug to me!
From:
Marijn -Priv
Subject:
RE: Red Devil
Date:
Thu, 23 Aug 2001
higher
in the water en thought it strange with that water rolling in. Thanks for
those
remarks
and suggestion. I'll let you know whether it worked or not.
Ommen
is in the East of The Netherlands, Utrecht/ Loosdrecht are in the center.
It's about
150km
apart; according to Dutch standards that's not close. According to American
it's
around
the corner... BTW: I don't own any wooden shoes! ;-)
sail
together. Then it is a small world afterall! Very weird.
want
to redo it as orginal as possible.
uncle
wouldn't mind a bit... ;-)
it's
not cut right and it doesn't go around the mast. You need tot tie it to
the mast.
That
way you loose a lot of power. But at the time we had no alternative. Now
I'got the
official
measurements. Maybe I'll have me a new one...
BTW
reefing is only fun if it means you're going to be the onlyone daring to
be on the
water...
lying
too low. I'm gonna check it. thanks.
Thanks
again. I'll keep you posted and get you some more pictures of her sailing.
Steve
From:
Marijn -Priv
Subject:
RE: Red Devil
Date:
Fri, 24 Aug 2001
I
am a ProjectManager for IT Migration Projects so I work all around The
Netherlands, and
drive
an average of 70 miles per working day. I was born in the south near Eindhoven,
went
to
college "way" up north in Groningen, had my first Job in the west at The
Hague and have
lived
for a few years now in the center city of Utrecht. So in Holland I've been
around.
But
lots of other people, inlcuding my family, think 30 miles driving to work
is a lot.
badly:
it's supposed to be speckled and textured. It's not a bug, it's a feature!
Sorry
for
the artist that came up with that idea...
some
wooden shoes! Wouldn't want to disappoint you...
Steve
Subject:
#875 shakedown cruise
Date:
Thu, 23 Aug 2001
Steve
>I
have seen boat coveres for Banshees advertised in a
>sailing
magazine. I'll find the contact info for you.
>More
on that later.
S
Subject:
Jisa sails on, but....
Date:
Sun, 28 Oct 2001
Steve
From:
Crackles no
Subject:
banshee rudder, cntr plate plans
for
design
of rudder & tiller
Date:
Sun, 20 Jan 2002
From:
captrob
From:
michael lane
Subject:
banshee
Michael
Lane
Date:
Thu, 31 Jan 2002
Subject:
Banshee Rendezvous
From:
captrob
To:
sbonham
Subject:
My new Banshee
Date:
Sat, 2 Feb 2002
Steve
To: captrob@juno.com
From: Steve
Bonham <sbonham@gsvms2.cc.gasou.edu>
Subject:
Re: Banshee Rendezvous
Subject:
Re: Banshee Rendezvous
From: captrob@juno.com
To: captrob@juno.com
From: Steve
Bonham <sbonham@gsvms2.cc.gasou.edu>
Subject:
Re: Banshee Rendezvous
Subject:
Re: Banshee Rendezvous
From: captrob@juno.com
To: captrob@juno.com
From: Steve
Bonham <sbonham@gsvms2.cc.gasou.edu>
Subject:
Re: Banshee Rendezvous
Date: Wed,
6 Feb 2002 18:51:58 -0600
Subject:
Re: Banshee Rendezvous
From: captrob@juno.com
To: sbonham@gasou.edu
Date: Thu,
7 Feb 2002 22:20:50 -0500
Subject:
Banshee #7042
To: jpinsky@realnetsolutions.com
From: Steve
Bonham <sbonham@gsvms2.cc.gasou.edu>
Subject:
Re: Banshee #7042
Date: Sat,
9 Feb 2002 11:21:20 -0600
Subject:
Banshee Rendezvous
From: captrob@juno.com
To: Steve
Bonham <sbonham@gsvms2.cc.gasou.edu>
Date: Sat,
9 Feb 2002 21:45:43 -0500
Subject:
Re: Banshee #7042
To: jpinsky@realnetsolutions.com
From: Steve
Bonham <sbonham@gsvms2.cc.gasou.edu>
Subject:
Re: Banshee #7042
To: [List
Suppressed]
From: Steve
Bonham <sbonham@gsvms2.cc.gasou.edu>
Subject:
Banshee Sailboat Rendezvous - July 2002
From: james
moodie <ducer52@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Banshee Sailboat Rendezvous - July 2002
To: Steve
Bonham <sbonham@gsvms2.cc.gasou.edu>
To: James
Moodie
From: Steve
Bonham <sbonham@gsvms2.cc.gasou.edu>
Subject:
Re: Banshee Sailboat Rendezvous - July 2002 Cc:
From: james
moodie <ducer52@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Banshee Sailboat Rendezvous - July 2002
To: Steve
Bonham <sbonham@gsvms2.cc.gasou.edu>
To: "Steve
Bonham" <sbonham@gsvms2.cc.gasou.edu>
Subject:
RE: My new Banshee
Date: Fri,
22 Feb 2002 20:43:18 -0500
From: Steve
Bonham <sbonham@gsvms2.cc.gasou.edu>
Subject:
RE: My new Banshee
Date: 2/26/2002
From: Steve
Thompson <stevedt@attbi.com>
Subject:
Help with finding a Banshee mast
Date: 3/26/2002
a mast. I
have the rest of the boat intact. Do you have any suggestions on
where I might
have the best luck of finding a mast to purchase or where I
might get
specifications to have one manufactured? Thanks for any
suggestions
you may have.
Steve Thompson
Seattle,
WA
............................................................................
From: Steve
Bonham <sbonham@gsvms2.cc.gasou.edu>
Subject:
Re: Help with finding a Banshee mast
Date: 3/26/2002
To: sbonham@gsvms2.cc.gasou.edu
Date: Wed,
1 May 2002 22:40:46 -0400
Subject:
Banshee mainsheet length
To: jpinsky@realnetsolutions.com
From: Steve
Bonham <sbonham@gsvms2.cc.gasou.edu>
Subject:
Re: Banshee mainsheet length
To: Steve
Bonham <sbonham@gsvms2.cc.gasou.edu>
Date: Sun,
5 May 2002 20:08:30 -0400
Subject:
Maiden Banshee Voyage
To: jpinsky@realnetsolutions.com
From: Steve
Bonham <sbonham@gsvms2.cc.gasou.edu>
Subject:
Re: Maiden Banshee Voyage
To: <sbonham@gasou.edu>
Subject:
Thank you
Date: Sun,
12 May 2002 11:28:18 -0700
phoenix,
az.
gruber@intergate.com
From: "Boroughf,
Matthew S" <matthew.s.boroughf@lmco.com>
Subject:
Banshee repairs &
To: "'sbonham@gasou.edu'"
To: "Boroughf,
Matthew S" <matthew.s.boroughf@lmco.com>
From: Steve
Bonham <sbonham@gsvms2.cc.gasou.edu>
Subject:
Re: Banshee repairs &
X-Attachments:
:Steve's Mac:16:rot.jpg:
To: <sbonham@gasou.edu>
Subject:
RE: Rubrail
Date: Mon,
27 May 2002 12:25:16 -0500
To: "Franklin
Propst" <prop809@bellsouth.net>
From: Steve
Bonham <sbonham@gsvms2.cc.gasou.edu>
Subject:
RE: Rubrail
To: Steve
Bonham <sbonham@gsvms2.cc.gasou.edu>
Date: Mon,
3 Jun 2002 08:50:20 -0400
Subject:
Capsize/Rudder Loss
To: "Steve
Bonham" <sbonham@gsvms2.cc.gasou.edu>
Subject:
Re: Capsize/Rudder Loss
Date: Mon,
3 Jun 2002 14:45:32 -0400
To: "Jacob
Pinsky" <jpinsky@realnetsolutions.com>
From: Steve
Bonham <sbonham@gsvms2.cc.gasou.edu>
Subject:
Re: Capsize/Rudder Loss
Misc/capsize_cheat2.mov
(This file is a movie that requires Quicktime player - Download
Quicktime)
To: Steve
Bonham <sbonham@gsvms2.cc.gasou.edu>
Date: Tue,
4 Jun 2002 22:42:28 -0400
Subject:
Re: Capsize/Rudder Loss
From: Bud
Kremer <bkremer@neteze.com>
To: Steve
Bonham <sbonham@gsvms2.cc.gasou.edu>
Subject:
Re: Banshee Sailboat Rendezvous - July 2002
To: Steve
Bonham <sbonham@gsvms2.cc.gasou.edu>
Date: Tue,
11 Jun 2002 19:22:21 -0400
Subject:
Re: Capsize/Rudder Loss
Date: Wed,
12 Jun 2002 16:21:32 -0500
Subject:
Banshee Rendezvous update
From: captrob@juno.com
Vince.Bobrosky@verizon.net
Date: Thu,
13 Jun 2002 10:51:27 -0500
Subject:
Banshee for sale
-available
for the rendezvous if anybody needs one.
-It's in
good condition. Been garage kept. It has a
-trailer
and cover. What is a fair price?
-
-Please drop
me a note if you know of anyone interested.
-
-Thanks.
JK
-email: jkaye@rr1.net
Ph. # 217-849-2933
Date: Thu,
13 Jun 2002 23:46:11 -0500
Subject:
Banshee Rendezvous
From: captrob@juno.com
To: steve
Bonham <sbonham@gsvms2.cc.gasou.edu>
Date: Sat,
22 Jun 2002 23:05:03 -0400
Subject:
Rudder plans
To: sbonham@gsvms2.cc.gasou.edu,KentLowry@yahoo.com,
vince.bobrosky@verizon.net
Date: Tue,
27 Aug 2002 18:05:36 -0500
Subject:
Banshee Rendezvous
To: sbonham@gasou.edu
From: "Thomas
G. Hippert, P.C." <tomaship@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Thanks for the rigging ideas
110
S. Church St. #4290
Tucson, Arizona
85701
[ph-520-6220-926]
To: "sbonham@gasou.edu"
<sbonham@gasou.edu>
From: Tom_Peloquin@averydennison.com
Date: Wed,
26 Jun 2002 09:17:28 -0400
To: jpinsky@realnetsolutions.com
From: Steve
Bonham <sbonham@gsvms2.cc.gasou.edu>
Subject:
Re: Rudder plans
Misc/rudder_assem02.jpg
To: "Steve
Bonham" <sbonham@gsvms2.cc.gasou.edu>
Subject:
Re: Rudder plans
Date: Thu,
27 Jun 2002 11:37:59 -0400
To: <sbonham@gasou.edu>
Subject:
Rigging a Penguin
Date: Thu,
27 Jun 2002 13:04:05 -0500
Sent: Thursday,
June 27, 2002 3:40 PM
To: Jim Mitchell
Subject:
Re: Rigging a Penguin
To: "Jacob
Pinsky" <jpinsky@realnetsolutions.com>
From: Steve
Bonham <sbonham@gsvms2.cc.gasou.edu>
Subject:
Re: Rudder plans
mid: contoured-
trailing edge about 2.5-3"
bottom:
contoured- slightly less than midpoint; 2"
Look at:
Misc/rudder_assem01.jpg
To: "Jim
Mitchell" <jimmitchell@columbus.rr.com>
From: Steve
Bonham <sbonham@gsvms2.cc.gasou.edu>
Subject:
Re: Rigging a Penguin
To: Steve
Bonham <sbonham@gsvms2.cc.gasou.edu>
Date: Thu,
27 Jun 2002 21:31:10 -0400
Subject:
Re: Rudder plans
To: jpinsky@realnetsolutions.com
From: Steve
Bonham <sbonham@gsvms2.cc.gasou.edu>
Subject:
Re: Rudder plans
Misc/rudderhead01.jpg
Misc/x_sect_rudder.jpg
To: "Steve
Bonham" <sbonham@gsvms2.cc.gasou.edu>
Subject:
Re: Rudder plans
Date: Fri,
28 Jun 2002 12:54:32 -0400
From: Gary
Stebbins <stebbins@ihwy.com>
To: sbonham@gasou.edu
Subject:
Reefing a Banshee
To: gstebbins@moreland.k12.ca.us
From: Steve
Bonham <sbonham@gsvms2.cc.gasou.edu>
Subject:
Re: Reefing a Banshee