My Banshee E-mail Archive
(Search it for keywords of interest to you)

Please note! I made links where I thought they would be useful. Most links open a new window to the targeted page. I'll try to maintain this by adding new messages and making corrections/additions when suggestions are made. Feel free to send photos, illustrations, and links where they will add value.

ADVICE FOR USE: This document if well over 100 pages long! From your browser menus select; Edit > Find... and type a keyword of interest (for instance; "rudder"). You can then "Find next" repeatedly untill you have searched the archive.

Thanks for all the great info! Steve

Current Content: June 22, 1999 - October 21, 2003

Steve's Banshee Page | National Banshee Class Page | Fleet One Page

 

Date: Tue, 22 Jun 1999
From: Rebecca 'Robbi' Adams - massageworks@therapist.net
To: Steve Bonham
Subject: Re: Banshee

Hi Steve,

No, I did not find a jib sail. I did not know that you could put a jib sail on this boat. I have heard from CA that it is a very fast boat with the sail that is provided for it. I am sailing with my six year old I do not think it needs to be any faster. I am getting a very clear picture that I would be overturned very often if I had a jib to bother with. Anyway, I have never heard of any jib for this one. No one in CA has mentioned that. A gentleman answered my e-mail from Sacramento about the sails and the deal was his two oldest sails for $100.00. He had a new one made. You can get a new one made for $325.00-$525.00.

Sherron at Hart Sails made them for him. She owns the rights to the racing sails. You can not race in a one class race with just any sail, you must use her sails or the one that came with the boat. He said that he races this boat quite a bit. He did not have anything for me as far a pictures for rigging, so I have been lost about that until now, so THANK YOU! I really appreciate that!

Have you ever taken your boat to Clarks hill reservoir near Augusta? That is where I learned how to sail my father's Coronado 15 when I was a little girl. I brought it down here to FL when I left home and sailed every day until my father felt the need to sell it. It has been ten years since I have been in a sailboat. I will get to put it together today because the sails should be here! I cut and sanded my centerboard yesterday. I just have to finish it with marine polyurethane and we are off! By the way I have the official one class racing rule book for the Banshee do you have that? I would be glad to send that to you. I do not have a flier for the boat though. Does it have more information about the boat that is not in your pictures? I would love to know how your center board fits in the trunk? I have to get cracking on that center board if I want it to be dry and waterproof by the time I need to get it in the water!

Thank you again! ~Robbi:-)

------------------------------------------------------------

To: Rebecca 'Robbi' Adams
From: Steve Bonham
Subject: Re: Banshee

Hi Robbi,

I'm not sure that you CAN put a jib on the Banshee. It just seemed to be rigged for it with the side cleats and deck-nose fixture. I'd like to get some experience in using more than one sail. I hope in the new couple of years to move to a "upper twenty-something/lower thirty something" older Catalina (or similar). I want to try some overnite sailing off the coast. The Banshee is a joy to sail! In a 10 mile and hour breeze it flies. Beware! My son (now 15) was scared to death at age 6 when I first started taking him out... He was terrified of heeling until I spent a couple of hours practicing intentional capsizes with him in a moderate wind close to shore. He learned to right the boat by himself (all 60 pounds of him!). After that he was okay. FYI, here is the process for righting the boat:

1. release the mainsheet cleat (IMPORTANT!);
2. swim around to the daggerboard/hull;
3. climb onto the daggerboard (stay close to the hull);
4. grasp the edge of the decking;
5. position your feet as necessary (if you are light more toward the tip of the daggerboard) and lean away from the boat.
6. as it rights -- DUCK UNDER THE BOOM! and climb into the boat.
NEW! Capsize recovery animation 1.5 MB

I've been to Clarks-Hill a few times. I usually go sailing off Pickney Island (just this western side of Hilton Head, S.C.). --Sailing with the dolphins! It is a real kick.

The Banshee flier is an 11 x 17 one sheet with pictures and line drawings (same side and top shots I used). Photo shows a child "surfing" on the foredeck and another shows the same child righting the boat after a capsize (probably seconds after the first photo!). There is nothing of substance in the flier-- that's why I had put the rigging material together. I had to figure it our myself with some suggestions from my father-in-law who used to race in the J-24 class in San Diego. Tell me more about your daggerboard. What did you make it with? Mine is pretty sad looking. It's the original cedar(?) but has several missing chunks and even more plastic-like filled areas where there USED to be missing chunks! I'm thinking of building a new one too. You said: >I would love to know how your center board fits in the trunk? Do you mean in the daggerboard well or the trunk of your car!? During transport I bungee mine into the boat. It is rather large for a car trunk... If you mean in the daggerboard well-- Fit it in however you'd like. In the front, centered, or toward the back; straight down/angle back-- It all depends on the load in your boat and the sailing conditions. I usually have mine positioned in the front of the well pointing straight down. I bungee it in pretty snuggly- or it tends to pop up when the wind dies. I'm in the process now of replacing my rotten transom. Banshees are notorious for this BTW. Keep them OUT of the weather. Mine had been stored outside on the trailer tipped so that it would drain-- but water got under the fiberglass in between the plywood layers and it has rotted significantly. I could pinch the transom walls and there was a LOT of flexibility in several areas --that was a major concern. I tried some of the "solutions" offered via the Banshee list ("GitRot") to no avail. So this weekend I'm doing major surgery. My boat has been out of action since last summer. I'm looking forward to getting it back into service. I'd love to have the "racing rules book" you mentioned. Is it faxable? If so I'm at 912.681.0099. If not, my snail mail is in my sig. I do not anticipate doing any racing-- but who knows... Well- better get back to work. I hope you and your son have a greatly successful first sail!

Enjoy the water! Steve

------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jun 1999
From: Rebecca 'Robbi' Adams
To: Steve Bonham
Subject: Re: Banshee

Hello Steve,

I will send the rule book today via snail mail. It is very simple. I have some questions for you. Do you not use the side cleats at all? What is the transom and the thwart? Do you have a cleat on the deck by the mast? I am having a hard time finding a basic sailing book to read. Everything here is very advanced. Just a beginning book would be nice. If you know of one send the ISBN # and I will order it. I got my sails today and I have checked them out. They are both fitted with a sock on the end so it does not need a halyard. The cunngingham just pulls it down. Evidently the racers in CA all do it this way. I hear that they haven't seen a halyard for this boat in a long time. I guess that is one less thing they have to worry about while sailing. I guess that will do it for now.

Thanks for all the info!
~Robbi:-)

------------------------------------------------------------

To: Rebecca 'Robbi' Adams
From: Steve Bonham
Subject: Re: Banshee

Hi Robbi,

I suppose that is the side cleats are not used for a jib then they must be for tying up to the dock...? Yeah. It's not really a standard "cleat." I have two "friction" cleats on the deck by the mast well. They are V shaped. There is a hole nearest the tip of the V. Feed the line thru the hole and up thru the V. Pressure from the line "pinches" the line between the sides of the V.

The book I love is entitled "Sailing for Dummies" ISBN is 0-7645-5039-X Couldn't be simpler.

You can order it at Amazon.com. I paid about $15 I think.

A sock-- huh? That would worry me. I've been caught out in a thunderstorm a couple of times in my Banshee and I was blown all over EVEN WITH THE SAIL DOWN! The only defense would be an intentional capsize with a sock in place... ??? You might want to think about that issue carefully.

Steve

------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jun 1999
From: Rebecca 'Robbi' Adams
To: Steve Bonham
Subject: Re: Banshee

I have gotten my sails today and the guy who sold them to me races this boat all of the time. I will send a copy of his diagrams to you. You will then see what the cleats on the side are for. The light bulb went on when I saw his diagram. I will have to find out about the windy sailing and he said that if I wanted to I could take the top of the sock off to have a halyard if I wanted to but not very many of the racers do that out there. Even the sail he just had made he had the top of the sleeve put on. I don't know I am just glad to have a sail for this boat. New ones are terribly expensive. Well you should get some things in the mail from me soon. Let me know if you've gotten them. I am ordering that book tonight.

Thank you! ~Robbi :-)

------------------------------------------------------------

To: Rebecca 'Robbi' Adams
From: Steve Bonham
Subject: Re: Banshee

Hi Robbi,

Finally! I've loacted the Banshee Flier. I had lost in in one of the many piles in my office [we've been changing offices]. Could you send your fax number again? I'll get it out today. How's the sailing going? I've cut my old rotten transom off-- and been glassing, sanding, glassing, sanding, etc. for a solid week now.... No, not the transom. Everything else! :-( Found hairline cracks on the hull, on the edges of the daggerboard well, in the mast well, one major crack on the deck, etc. A major overhaul. But it's long overdue. Can't wait to get it in the water. Did you see John P's latest post (You were mentioned there)? The story on the U-31 was a hoot.

Have a good one, Steve

------------------------------------------------------------

To: banshee
From: Steve Bonham
Subject: Old Banshee Flier Online

Hey Banshee fans,

I've have a number of requests for a copy of my rare Banshee "Operators Manual" (dare I call it that?) since I mentioned it a few years ago. Since the last request I decided it might be a good resource to "webize"-- So, I've done so. It's at brochure.html. Remember it's 1970's(?) vintage. Some of the info (regarding the Banshee association) probably is not current.

Enjoy, Steve

------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Chris Freeman" - c-n-free@worldnet.att.net
To: Steve Bonham
Subject: Banshee info
Date: Thu, 1 Jul 1999

Thanks for sharing the info & the link. I am continually amazed at the enthusiasm of this fleet.

Regards, Chris
Lone Carolina Banshee owner 411

------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Jul 1999
From: Chris Freeman
To: Steve Bonham
Subject: Re: Banshee info

Lake Murray, SC. I primarily crew on a J/24 (foredeck) We do a lot of racing here on our lake & go to regattas in Charleston, Wrightsville Beach NC, Lake Lanier GA, & Augusta GA. The Banshee, I horse traded for with a canoe & a little cash. It has been a fun little boat, but having the only one on the lake it's not easily raced. We also have a Catalina 22, though I still would rather race on a J.

Fair winds, Chris

------------------------------------------------------------

From: Mountnr
Date: Sat, 3 Jul 1999
Subject: Boat questions
To: banshee

I bought a Banshee recently, have a few questions.

1) What is the line that is attached to the head of the sail for?
[Halyard- for raising sail if you do not have a "sock" style sleeve.]
2) Is wrapping the sail around the mast the best way to reef? [not advised-- if blowing that hard go in]
3) Is a halyard a good idea and if so , what is the best way to rig it?
4) My hull says BSD06504M79K. Does that mean I have boat number 6504, which was built in 1979?
[For the answer the the last question see: HIN (Hull Identification Humbers) Info here]

Thanks very much in advance!

Sincerely, Bill Potts Livermore, Ca

------------------------------------------------------------

To: Bryan Bentz
From: Steve Bonham
Subject: Re: Old Banshee Flier Online

Hi Bryan,

You are welcome to link to or clone the pages. However, I'm webmaster here at our Center and don't see any problem with keeping them here for a long time. Steve

>Thats great! I'll stick in a pointer from the Banshee page I've got. If you ever have any difficulty hosting what you have, I'd be proud to maintain copies at the (zero cost) MIT site.

------------------------------------------------------------

To: "John Poimiroo"
From: Steve Bonham
Subject: Re: Old Banshee Flier Online

Thanks John.

Sure do enjoy your fleet reports! The last one re the C-31 was a HOOT! :-) Ever thought about archiving them? If you have photos to add they could be a neat web resource. I look forward to seeing your flier. If you need assistance with layout it out let me know.

Steve

------------------------------------------------------------

To: Brian F Larson - bflarson@cnde.iastate.edu
From: Steve Bonham
Subject: Re: Old Banshee Flier Online

No sweat Brian.

It was a "labor of love" and a trip down memory lane-- and it will reduce time spent locating and faxing the stuff in the future. Many folks sailing Banshees in Iowa? Steve

>Thanks, Steve.

>I found the information interesting and I appreciate your effort to get the material on the Internet.

>Brian F. Larson
> Associate Scientist Center for NDE Iowa State University

------------------------------------------------------------

From: DIALSF@aol.com
Date: Fri, 2 Jul 1999
Subject: Re: Old Banshee Flier Online
To: sbonham

Hi Steve

Iam not an official member of the fleet but love sailing my Banshee up at Scotts Flat Lake in the Sierra's every Summer! I was, years ago in the 60s, General Mgr. of Marine Plastics Inc., the original Mfg. of the Banshee, and my (former) brother in Law Dick Reid, designed the Banshee and we built the first generation up to the time that Dick sold his interest to Barry Brook and production resumed in Santa Cruz, Calif. some years later. We also built the Flying Dutchman, 21 ft. Olympic Class and the trainer for that class, the Flying Dutchman Jr. 16 ft. Sloop. Thank you again for the flier, it was very nastalgic indeed ! Have a wonderful Fourth of July and stay in touch when you have time.

Sincerely, Skip Stanyan

------------------------------------------------------------

To: DIALSF
From: Steve Bonham
Subject: Re: Old Banshee Flier Online

Skip!

Gee, you're a good guy to have in the neighborhood! I'm currently replacing my Banshee transom. Could I ask for some advice? I've cut the old rotten thing off and I'm in the process of patching some small hairline cracks in the hull. Soon I plan to add as many swimming pool noodles as I can wedge into the flotation cells. Last time I had her out she took on a LOT of water... Then I'll put a new transom back on. Here's my plan -- please review & let me know if I'm on the right track... I'm no boatwright-- but do enjoy learning new things. Thanks in advance.

The plan...

1. cut pressure-treated 3/4 plywood from old transom "template" Is this the same as marine plywood? If not, What's the diff? Should I cover this with with a few layers of fiberglass PRIOR to step 2? I noticed that the original (?) transom did not-

2. Use Bondo to join transom to flotation cells and deck. I'm planning to use a come-along or such to secure parts during curing. I'll brace the backside of the transom with a couple of 2x4's to prevent the transom from bending inward toward the come-along.

3. Glass over all junctures... 6-8 layers (mat,cloth,mat,cloth,mat, cloth,mat, cloth).

4. Gelcoat or paint with enamel

------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Blosen, Bill" - bill.blosen@compaq.com
Subject: RE: Banshee hull numbers
Date: Tue, 6 Jul 1999

HI,

After hearing questions about the Banshee hull numbers I thought I would pass this along: check out this website it will answer ALL your questions:http://boatsafe.com/nauticalknowhow/hin.html On the other questions: 1 ) I am not sure. Adjustable attachment to top of mast, instead of a shackle? 2) I think so. 3) I would only have a halyard if I anticipated having to lower the sail while on the water. On the beach, just carefully roll the boat on to its side, walk to the end of the mast in order to detach and lower the sail. 4) PS: banshee hull numbers and sail numbers do not match. I assume it was easier that way at the factory. Regards, Bill Blosen Compaq Computers

------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Gary Siegle" - oscar@one.net
Subject: User Manual
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 1999

I was wondering when these boat where sold if they had a users manual with them would like to know.  And if so if they are still available somewhere. thanks Gary

------------------------------------------------------------

To: "Gary Siegle"
From: Steve Bonham
Subject: Re: User Manual

Check out mainpage on an on-line version.

------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Rilla McColl" - rmccoll@mediaone.net
Subject: Banshee
Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999

We have a 1978 Banshee whose papers claim it is 14 feet, but the web site I got the e-mail address off thinks Banshees are 13. In any case, the thing that holds the mast into the bottom of the boat is broken. (Perhaps it's called a step - perhaps not. Sorry to be so non-nautical.) We would dearly love to fix it and would appreciate any ideas on how to go about it.

Thanks!
Pete and Rilla McColl
Ponte Vedra Beach, FL

------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Jul 1999
Subject: new e-mail address
From: f j goeckner

Hi Guys,

[e-mail address comment deleted] I also have a new sail from Sherron Hart which looks & works pretty nice. Now I have to find a race to test it out.

Fritz Goeckner

------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Jul 1999
From: John Maguire
To: Banshee
Subject: Banshee web site and email letter

Hi. My information is below. I ran into Charlie Hess yesterday at Huntington Lake, California. I've owned a banshee since 1984 and recently got another used one because it was in better shape (didn't leak!) both banshees are 25-30 years old. I want to know the web address for the web page, and also be on any Banshee email list.

Please sign me up!

John Maguire

------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Jul 1999
From: Wendy Pebler
Subject: Banshee for Sale

For Sale 14 foot Banshee Sailboat, Gold with white interior Fully rigged Rainbow Sail Trailer All in great shape Registrations up to date $600.00

------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Bruce Hatch"
Subject: Banshee for sale
Date: Thu, 22 Jul 1999

I have a banshee, built for coastguard training program, for sale. I am located in Ukiah, CA (about 110mi North of S.F.) w/trailer. $500.00.

------------------------------------------------------------

Date sent: Sun, 01 Aug 1999
From: Christopher Wright
Subject: Instructions

I have purchaced a used Banshee and need rigging instructions, if any one can help.

------------------------------------------------------------
 

From: Steve Bonham
Subject: Re: Maintainence Help for my Banshee

DJ,

This seems to be a classic problem with Banshees. I'm in the final stages of completing a transom replacement on my 1976 vintage Banshee. I tried some cheap fixes that worked for a while... First, put some layers of new glass across the top of the transom and reinforced the hull/transom junctures. This just delayed the major repair job-- Not a good fix.

How bad is the rotting? When I bought my Banshee (used in 1990) it had deliminated on the outer edges of the transom. I suspected some rot but it didn't appear to be serious until a couple of years ago. If the damage is minimal and localized you can try "Git-Rot" an expensive (4 oz. bottle is about $30) penetrating resin that will harden the rotten areas (Really HARD - rock hard!). Just drill holes (many small holes are better than fewer larger holes) into the damaged areas. Let it drain. Amazing how much water the transom plywood will hold! My boat was still dripping after a week.... My guess was that it was holding about 5-10 ounces. When your boat has not dripped for a week or so "inject" the Git-Rot. Let it cure (I waited 2 weeks) and fill and relaminate the work areas. Git-rot got me thru 2 summers- but the other untreated areas continued to breakdown. Last time I was out sailing I noticed that the interior transom wall (where the rudder linkage hardware is visible) was "spongy" -- I could pinch it with my fingers and compress it 1/8 of an inch. I decided to overhaul the whole thing.

I cut off the old transom with a circular saw.
[I don't suggest doing this! It was a lot more work than I thought. Do this instead --->GREAT TRANSOM REPAIR ADVICE!!! ]
It was pretty badly rotted-- and flakey except where I treated it with Git-Rot (I had only used one small bottle). If I used three I might have avoided this. :-( Using the old transom as a template (minus 1/4 inch along the bottom edge-- you'll make it up with laminate) I cut a new one from 3/4 inch pressure-treated plywood. I laminated the transom to the extreme... Fiberglas Mat, more mat, cloth, mat, cloth, cloth (Yes, the transom is heavy now). Drilled temporary holes into the transom so I could winch it into place against the hull/aircells for bonding and laminating. I'm putting the final layers of laminate on now. She's almost as good as new. The transom replacment has been interesting but NOT fun. My new nickname at home is "sticky" and I've spent a small fortune on resin, acetone, and fiberglass material at the local Lowes. My advice -- Sand off the entire aft wall of your transom-- thru the gelcoat and glass until you get down to the plywood. Let it dry out. Inject the git-rot GENEROUSLY. Let it cure. Rebuild and shape the original transom wall with bondo or another good shapable filler. Reglass generously. Get Git-Rot... and plenty of it.

Steve

>The rubber strip on top of my transom was loose and water has gotten into the wood which has started to delaminate and rot. Any ideas on how to repair this?

>Thanks,
>djinoregon

------------------------------------------------------------

From: Djinoregon - Djinoregon@aol.com
Date: Wed, 4 Aug 1999
Subject: Re: Maintainence Help for my Banshee
To: sbonham

Thanks for the great ideas on fixing my transom. I was hoping for a quick fix so I could get in some more sailing this year but after reading your message I think I"d rather make this my winter project and do it right. This boat has been with my family for 20 years and holds some sentimental value. DJ

------------------------------------------------------------

From: Mountnr
Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999
Subject: Traveler and mainsheet system
To: banshee

Would like to know what brand and model traveler people are using for their Banshee. Also, what type of mainsheet block and cleat? I am using the stock set-up but want to switch, Thanks alot, Bill Potts

------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Lane, Brian L MVR" - brian.l.lane@usace.army.mil
To: "'banshee"
Subject: new banshee owner
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999

I have just bought a used banshee and would like and info on the proper maintenance and setup.

Thank You
Brian L. Lane
U.S. Army Corps of Engineers,
Rock Island District Engineering Division

------------------------------------------------------------

From: "R.W.Barnes"
To: 
Subject: Where have You Been?
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999

Hi: I bought my Banshee back in the early 1970's when my wife made me sell my big Islander cruiser. I loved it then, although I am getting a little long in the tooth for the acrobatics it requires. About 10 years ago My son hit a rock, flipped and lost the upper lower mast and rudder. We didn't know where to go for replacement parts so we had to get a (shudder) Laser sail, mast and tiller assembly. So now we have a "Blazer". We really cant tell any difference in sailing characteristics and the boat has still the much superior cockpit layout to the Laser. Anyway, in case we lose anything else on the boat, can you tell us were we can get Banshee replacement parts?

Thanks
Dick Barnes
Lake Wylie SC

------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 26 Sep 1999
From: "Cecil Davis Jr."
Subject: Sails

There is a Banshee for sale in my area and I'm thinking of purchasing it, but there is no sail with the boat. I was wondering if you could give me any info as where to buy one. I would appreciate any information that you could e-mail me.
Cecil Davis

------------------------------------------------------------

From: LASERJIMC
Date: Wed, 29 Sep 1999
Subject: Re: Banshee Daggerboard

Last I heard, Kim Desenburg, North Coast Yachts, Oakland, CA had parts and tooling for the Banshee. In case you do'nt find a factory board, dimensions per the 6/1/79 rules book are: span below keelson 32 1/2" chord at keelson 11 1/2" chord at max. span 8 1/2" maximum thickness 1" Shape and dimensions above bottom of hull are unrestricted. The section, while unspecified, approximates an NACA 0006 airfoil. My experience is that shape and finish of board and rudder are critical if you expect the boat to point and perform well.

Jim Christopher

------------------------------------------------------------

From: tom-miller
To: banshee
Subject: My new banshee
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999

I got a banshee at a yard sale the other day. The hull seems to be in OK shape. The standing rigging is all there and the sail is probably useable, at least for a while. But most of the running rigging is gone or in really bad shape. Has anyone got some drawings or pictures that show detail as to where lines should be run and blocks should be installed? The last time I sailed a banshee was at least ten years ago and I just don't remember any more. Maybe there are some banshees in the SF bay area I could visit and see how they are rigged.

------------------------------------------------------------

From: tom-miller
To: Steve Bonham
Subject: Re: My new banshee
Date: Sun, 31 Oct 1999

I looked at the brochure. The drawing that showed the basic rigging is helpful. Thanks.

>Hi Tom,
>I have a handout I made for a sailing class years back. Give me a fax number and I'll send it on.
>Also check out: > Banshee Home

>Steve

------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 Jan 2000
From: Steve C - schai@rust.net
To: "banshee"
Subject: Wanted: used Banshee Sail

I'm looking to buy a used Banshee Sail. There is no racing around here, so maybe one of you racers has an older one in decent conditon. My sail got pilfered so I now have none. I still have to redo the rotted transom and the ice melt before I can go sailing again. Thanks for any leads.

Steve Chaikin
Whitmore Lake, Michigan (734) 449 8889

------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Donald Dahl" - donwecarerose@mindspring.com
To: 
Subject: Banshee?
Date: Thu, 6 Jan 2000

Your web site is a great find!!!! As my wife and I have Recently accuired a 1977 Banshee that seems to be in very good shape but neither of us have a clue on how to rig it nor do either of us have any sailing experiance hopfuly we will be able to hook-up with some of the Banshee owners here in the Sacramento aera as we see there are quite a few. Please add as to your list, we live in Sacramento.

Thanks
Donald and Rochelle Dahl

------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Dean Eppley"

Banshee Racers,   Folsom Lake Yacht Club has passed out the Race Committee assignments for the year and the open centerboard fleet has been given the second race day of each series.  Since when I look around the only non-keelboat racers I see are Banshees, we're it.  If you are interested in doing race committee for a race day, please give me a call 916-985-4236, or send me an e-mail.  No experience is required since we train.  Guests, kids, nice dogs etc. are welcome if arranged in advance.  It is a great way for new racers or the uninitiated to see what it is like.  (Plus the Banshee committees are always a fun time!!!).    Thanks to our own Craig Lee for doing committee last weekend - he did a great job in spite of the less than stellar wind conditions!   Banshee Committees needed for.... · Frostbite #2, Saturday January 22, 2000 (roughly 9 AM - 3 PM, Folsom Lake Marina ) - Dean and Daria will be there - others are welcome.· · Spring #2, Saturday March 25, 2000 (roughly 9 AM -3 PM) - Race chairman and crew needed.· · Summer #2 (Date not yet set) - Race chairman and crew needed.· · Fall #2 (Date not yet set) - Race chairman and crew needed.·

Thanks!   Dean Eppley

------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Dean Eppley"

The Sacramento Banshee Fleet web page is now available with Banshee event dates listed.  The address is http://www.geocities.com/banshee_fleet_one   Thanks,   Dean Eppley

------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000
From: Ken Perine
To: banshee
Subject: My new Banshee Project

I just purchased a Banshee Sailboat the needs some transom work because part of the core has become de-laminated. I was wondering if anyone else had this experience and what they did to fully repair the boat. I also am in need of the proper way to rig the boat for class racing. Are travelers allowed? Are there sail type restrictions? I also am not sure if the centerboard I received with it is the stock type. I need to know the dimensions of the centerboard, including minimum weight. I hope to have this boat fully operational by April and so would appreciate any speedy responses I can get. (Late responses ok to)

Ken Perine

------------------------------------------------------------

From: DIALSF
Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000
Subject: Check out Banshee Page - [GREAT TRANSOM REPAIR ADVICE!!!]
To: kenperin
CC: banshee

Click here: Banshee Page

Ken, Go to this web site for rudder plans, sail plans, daggerboard plans and Official Banshee Class Rules.

As far as the rudder, I would suggest taking a router and carefully routing out the wood laminated to transom until you have a nice clean, flat area that consists of the Plastic laminate of hull, devoid of any material. Be careful not to go thru the Transom Laminate with the router or whatever you decide to use to remove rotting wood!

Cut a new piece of marine grade plywood at least half inch thick, and use the router, or by hand if no router, round the edge of the plywood on the bottom & side that goes against the transom so that it fits the radius of the hull/transom juncture. It should fit nice and snug between gunwhale tanks and transom, but not too tight. Rough up plywood with 30 grit sandpaper on side that laminates to transom and wipe transom and Plywood clean with acetone. Rough up half inch area on side of tanks (only where new transom plywood will come in contact with them) so glass and plywood will bond to tank sides as well as transom itself. (DONT GET MESSY WITH THE RESIN......HUGE MISTAKE)

Mask tanks and just ahead of where plywood will end up on hull floor, so you dont get resin runoff that will leach from transom ply when Ply is clamped to transom during lamination to hull. Use ounce and a half fiberglass mat with resin, not "catalyzed" to hot, and place ply against transom area. Take C-Clamps and place wood 2x4s or similar to use as clamp blocks to spread the pressure of the clamps evenly as possible against ply and suck it in as evenly as possible against hull/transom. you might want to clean any residual resin off boat or elsewhere before it sets up. After glass has cured for a day or so, put one more layer of ounce and a half mat on interior side of transom, let cure, sand and finish with coating of choice. Make sure you seal with resin, the top of the transom, so water does not intrude into plywood and start rotting it all over again. Install rudder hardware, drain plug, (note- you may have to adjust tank drains if plywood overlaps them) install plastic or aluminum trim cap ,1/2 inch wide, over entire transom top and bond with strong adhesive. I would avoid using screws to fasten trim cap as it tends to split the plys and allows water to intrude again.

You be the judge and dont feel you have to do it "MY" way. OK! Use your own best judgment. I was a part of Marine Plastics, and built the first generation of Banshees and Flying Juniors so I have had some experience, but I think common sense and thinking it out carefully, goes a long way. I have to replace my rotten transom as well for this season so I will be getting my hands dirty as well. Best of luck on your new Banshee and hope to meet you all at Folsom Lake this year.

Best regards, Skip Stanyan, SF

PS I'm still looking for a kick up rudder in any workable condition.

------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Feb 2000
To: banshee
From: Jonathan Davis
Subject: For sale

Hey everyone,

I am selling my Banshee for $500.00. If you know some one that would like a Banshee please contact me. The boat is in good condition with all the rigging, sail, and trailer. The hull is white with a blue deck. I hate to sell it but I don't have the time to sail. Well pass the word to others.

Thanks,
Jonathan Davis
Rome, GA

------------------------------------------------------------

From: Pedro Mendonça
To: 
Subject: Banshee Building Plans
Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2000

Dear Sirs,

I would like to now if it is possible to order from you or from any other organization a complete set of building plans of the above mentioned sailing boat.   If it is, please send me details.

Regards
Pedro Mendonça

------------------------------------------------------------

From: Skiracer883
Date: Wed, 8 Mar 2000
Subject: Banshee rigging
To: sbonham

Hello,

I just took ownership of my father's Banshee, which I spent much of my youth enjoying, and I could really benefit from a good copy of the information needed to get me back on the water. I tried printing on a HP 612c and just could not bring it in. If you can E-mail me, or the one listed on this E-mail, and let me know if you could help me out, I would be very thankfull.

Thank in advance
Lyle Cohen

------------------------------------------------------------

To: Skiracer883
From: Steve Bonham
Subject: Re: Banshee rigging

Hi Lyle,

I'd be glad to help. Let me make sure I understand... You tried to print some materials that I've put online? Are you trying to print the owners manual or the powerpoint "Rigging Your Banshee" slideshow? I'd be glad to mail a photocopy of the 4 page manual-- I'm affraid the powerpoint stuff is "history." All I have is a scan of a printout. I lost the original presentation.
Steve

------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Dean Eppley"

I am please to welcome new Banshee owners to the fleet!!!! · Don and Rochelle Dahl purchased a 1977 banshee and ...· · Ken Cardwell purchased Banshee #6500· Welcome to Fleet One Sacramento Don, Rochelle and Ken!!!      I plan to update the Fleet One web Site this weekend (www.geocities.com/banshee_fleet_one/) with a page listing Fleet One Banshee owners' names, sail numbers, and boat names. I will not include e-mail addresses or phone numbers

other than mine so you won't get spammed.  If you don't want your name listed, please send me an e-mail, otherwise, I'll assume it is OK.  The list I have >from Keith does not have boat names, so if you want me to include your boat's name, please send me an e-mail too.    Now is the time to start getting those Banshees ship shape - Spring is on its way.  For you brave soles, the spring series starts 10 AM March 18 at Folsom Lake Marina.  Wednesday night fun races start May 3rd at 6PM Folsom Lake Marina.  I look forward to seeing you all!! 

Dean Eppley (Fleet Captain KSHP*) (*Keith Steele's Humble Protege) 

------------------------------------------------------------

To: BansheeGuys
From: Steve Bonham
Subject: Reefing Banshee Mainsail?

Dean and friends,

I have a couple of questions about my Banshee...

1. when sailing downwind in moderate to strong winds my mainsail and boom behave wildly. Is there a way to effectively reef a Banshee mainsail? My mainsail is raised with a halyard so I can lower it but the boom lowers too! What do you folks do in strong winds? I'm guessing that you disconnect the outhaul and wrap the mainsail about the mast-- then reconnect the outhaul????

2. Also-- I have no boomyang on my rig. Can anyone give me some advice on building one from scratch?

Thx, Steve

------------------------------------------------------------

To: Buesing Mark-QMB001 - Mark_Buesing-QMB001@email.mot.com
From: Steve Bonham
Subject: RE: Reefing Banshee Mainsail?

Great Mark. Fax # is 912.681.0099 Thx, Steve

>You must have a vang.
>Give me your fax number and I'll sketch one out for you.
>If you have to reef, you should not be out!

>Mark

------------------------------------------------------------

To:
From: Steve Bonham
Subject: RE: Reefing Banshee Mainsail?

Mack,

Thanks! Got it and will visit West Marine in Augusta, GA to get the gear tomorrow. Steve

>Steve,
>you definitely need a vang; it will obviate the need to reef. You need at least a 2 to 1 purchase from eyering on boom to eyering on base of mast.

>My banshee has a complete vang that I bought from the sail shop with blocks, a jamcleat and swiveliing shackles. Buy it, (pricey) and clip it on. Most of the other guys have fancy setups.
>Mack -- Fleet one

------------------------------------------------------------

From: Buesing Mark-QMB001
To: "'Steve Bonham'"
Subject: RE: Reefing Banshee Mainsail?
Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2000

You must have a vang. Give me your fax number and I'll sketch one out for you. If you have to reef, you should not be out!

Mark

------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Mack Bishop"
To: "'Steve Bonham'"
Subject: RE: Reefing Banshee Mainsail?
Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2000

Steve, you definitely need a vang; it will obviate the need to reef. You need at least a 2 to 1 purchase from eyering on boom to eyering on base of mast. My banshee has a complete vang that I bought from the sail shop with blocks, a jamcleat and swiveliing shackles. Buy it, (pricey) and clip it on. Most of the other guys have fancy setups.

Mack -- Fleet one --

------------------------------------------------------------

To: Karafiath Gabor CRBE
From: Steve Bonham
Subject: RE: Reefing Banshee Mainsail?
Attachments: :Steve's Mac:381:halyard.jpg:

Thx Gabor,

You said:
>Steve > I am very curious about how the mainsail is raised with a halyard. can you describe this to me?

>Rigging a boom vang will probably solve your downwind sailing in heavy air and you will enjoy the boat a lot- lot - lot more!!! The boom vang is attached to a metal U shaped strap ( Called a "bail" ). This strap is fixed to the mast at a position just above the deckline. The closer to the deck the better. The other end of the vang is attached to a similar strap attached to the boom a short distance back from the gooseneck. The mast, boom and goosneck form a right triangle. The distance from the goosneck to the boom bail is a little ( maybe 8 inches) more than the distance from the goosneck to the deck. For starters you can make the boom vang with a 4 to 1 purchase pulley system and a cleat. The cleat can be on the pulleys or on the deck. It is better on the pulleys. In heavy air, have the vang tight. This is easy to do while you are sailing upwind since you have the mainsheet purchase to snug down the boom. As you let out the sheet the vang will keep the end of the boom from rising and there will be a lot more power in the sail and a lot less rudder control is needed. Keep your weight well aft and you can get some thrilling rides.

>Gabor Karafiath
> Silver Spring MD
> PS Do you know of anyone who has a mainsail to sell?

I' m attaching a jpg illustrating my mainsail-halyard setup. [halyard.jpg] You shopuld be able to view it with your web browser. My mainsail has a sleeve not a "sock" luff edge. The head of the sail is open.

To rig my Banshee I:

1. slip the mainsail onto the mast base (lower piece).
2. Insert the topmast into the base.
3. attach the halyard to the eyelet at the head.
4. thread the halyard thru the pulley at the top of the topmast
5. Insert the mast base into the mast well in the deck.
6. attach boom, connect outhaul, & mainsheet
7. attach rudder
8. shove off and raise mainsail.

Hope this answers your question re; using a halyard. It's a bit of a hassle in a wind as the boom sits inside the boat- until the mainsail is almost all the way up. Generally it takes TWO to ensure no mishaps.
 

Nope- on the "mainsail to sell" question... Check with; Banshee Central 328 3rd Street W. Sacramento, CA 95605 hartsails@jps.net banshee411@aol.com OR Abbott Boats Sarnia, Ontario (519) 542-2771 abbott@ebtech.net http://www.abbottboats.com

Happy sailing, Steve

------------------------------------------------------------

To: "Mark Dawson" - markdawson@jps.net
From: Steve Bonham
Subject: Re: Reefing Banshee Mainsail?

Thanks Mark,

I've got an illustration of the 8:1 double cascade in my trusty "Sailing for Dummies" book. I'll take it to West Marine tomorrow and get this "pulled" together for my next excursion. Happy sailing, Steve

>Steve

>Check out "Sailing the Banshee in Big Air" on the Banshee web site. You need a vang and cunningham (downhaul) in order to control the sail in heavy wind. The vang will keep the boom from lifting when the sheet is let out.

>I use a double cascade 8:1 vang with the controls led to both sides of the boat. Look at the Harken and Ronstan web sites for illustrations of vang and cunningham systems. They are not tough to make, just line, blocks and cleats.

>Nobody reefs the banshee sail, and the outhaul is basically two positions, the distance from your thumb tip to the tip of your index finger with the two at right angle to one another (6") and the distance from tip of thumb to tip of smallest finger stretched as far apart as possible (8") measured at the point of the sails deepest draft. The more wind the less draft, the more waves the more draft.

>Consider loosing the halyard all together and sewing a piece of nylon webbing across the top of the sail sleeve. this will allow the sail to twist off more and open the leach in strong winds. The mast gives the top of the sail a huge lever to heel the boat and spilling some wind up there is good in a blow.

>If you cant figure the vang thing let me know I can take a picture of mine and send to you.

>D.B.A.
>Mark

------------------------------------------------------------

To: "Dean Eppley"
From: Steve Bonham
Subject: Re: Reefing Banshee Mainsail?

Excellent advice Dean!

Thanks for the great info. I'll place an order today for the hardware. Yes. my mast and boom have the connectors in place for the vang. Just didn't know what to do with it... Happy sailing, Steve

>Steve,
>The national site http://www-swiss.ai.mit.edu/~bentz/haile.html has a good article on sailing the Banshee in heavy wind. Without a boom vang you're hosed in heavy conditions, because the boom will rise and lead to instant instability "death rolls". The boom vang should be set very tight in heavy winds - set it upwind so it is snug when strapped in on a beat. Then don't let the sail out too far. In heavy air, one "rule of thumb" is not to let the end of the boom to go forward of a line even with the traveler/thwart. If you have a traveler, it should be out all the way (although most Folsom Lake Banshee sailors don't think adding a traveler is worth it). If you are pleasure sailing, don't do deep runs - power reaches are much more fun. Pretend you are a catamaran and do the "wild thing" (reaches rather than runs).

>Regarding reefing, we never reef our Banshee sails - if it is that heavy, we go in. I have reefed Laser sails in our juniors program by wrapping the main once or twice around the mast. Mast reefing would work on a Banshee too, although you would need to tie down the clew (with a loop around the boom) since it would no longer reach the boom track.. If you do this be sure to remove the top batten. I don't know of any safe way to reef on the water, so decide before you go out.

>The stock banshee boom vang is a 2 to 1 which isn't enough. I'd recommend at least a 4 to 1. If you do a lot of heavy air you could even go higher. Does you boom and mast already have eyes on them to accept blocks for the vang or do you need the measurements? For a 4 -1 get a small double block with a becket (like a Harken 227 Micro Block or Harken 085 Bullet Block) for the mast and a plain double block (like a Harken 226 Micro Block or 084 Bullet Block) for the boom. Place a cam cleat in a convenient location (on the thwart if you don't have a traveler, or on the bulkhead behind the mast. If you do this, leave enough line that you can reach it from your normal sailing position (which in heavy air down wind is hiked out and back).
>Good luck and have fun!!
>Dean

------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Abbott Boats Inc."
To: "'sbonham
Subject: banshee parts
Date: Wed, 15 Mar 2000

Dear Mr. Bonham; Thank you for your inquiry. We have Banshee mast collars for $6.50 Cnd. plus shipping and handling. You can pay by mastercard - fax to the number below the credit card number, expiry date and authorized card holder name. If you have any questions, please contact this office.

Thank you, Alona

------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Dean Eppley"
To: "Steve Bonham"
Subject: Re: Reefing Banshee Mainsail?
Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2000

Steve,

Glad I could help. If you find the 4 to 1 isn't enough, you can double it to 8-1 with a cascade. Just add one more single block to the boom and another eye to the mast. My poor attempt at a drawing is attached. Be sure to use stainless steel rivets to connect the eye to the mast.

Have fun! Dean

Attachment converted: Steve's Mac:vang.bmp (BMPf/ogle) (0004F209)

------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Tom Goodwin" - tgoodwin@macnexus.org
Subject: Re: Reefing Banshee Mainsail?
To: Steve Bonham
Date: Sat, 18 Mar 2000

Steve.

i'll try to tackle the questions. Mebbe someone has already done it ?

Q#1...no we don't wrap the sail around the mast. our sails are cut to be used w/o reefing. we do a little out-haul and a little cunningham...that's it. anyway the battens really won't let you do too much. We sometimes wrap for the kids around the docks when the kids are 100 pounds. not for regular sailing. When it blows too much we either go-for-it or go home. There is an alternative sail that works fair/middling that has the battens running vertically, that way it can be 'reefed' to the smallest size. (you'd need a looonnng out-haul/reef line) We don't have a sail like that here in our fleet of thirty boats however.

q#2 about the vang? well you'd better look at any other small boat to get a visual idea. i use a 'waterfall' type and it doesn't help one bit. You're probably best to just use a double block assembly and forget some tricky other way.

signed tom , fleet #1 measurer.

------------------------------------------------------------

To: "Dean Eppley"
From: Steve Bonham
Subject: Re: Reefing Banshee Mainsail?

Dean (and friends),

Poor attempt my butt! Your illustration was great. My 4:1 Vang kit should arrive today or tomorrow. I did order an extra double and single block so I very well may step up to an 8:1. The responses to my question have been outstanding. I've gotten about ten very detailed and quite helpful replies regarding using/designing a vang, alternatives, and reefing the Banshee mainsail. What a wealth of knowledge we have here. The Banshee community is alive and well. I'm quite jealous of the group you Folsom Lake folks have cultivated. Must be a lot of fun! I plan to take a few photos next time out. I'll post the url when they are on-line.

Thanks again (and MANY thanks to you other responders!),
Steve

------------------------------------------------------------

To: Geo2geo
From: Steve Bonham
Subject: Re: Reefing Banshee Mainsail?

Geo,

I got quite a few replies to my question. Most said you don't reef a Banshee mainsail. Just use the vang 4:1, 8:1, or 16:1... and When it get too rough go in. A couple said they have reefed their mainsail by wrapping the mainsail about the mast. Requires doing so prior to sailing and requires removal of the uppermost batten. I suspect that it would be possible to lower a portion of the mainsail and fold it atop the boom (true reefing) IF one used a boom hoist running from the end of the boom to the top of ther mast and down to a cleat.

Good luck and happy sailing, Steve

>i have three banshees
>one has reef cringles sewn into the sail but the others do not would be interested in info about reefing we sail on Heron Lake in New Mexico
>thanks

------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2000
To: Steve Bonham
From: Mike Salmon
Subject: Re: JC strap???

Steve: You're more than welcome! I got the impression you intend to use the jc strap as a substitute for a vang. This is to let you know the two have entirely different functions and one will not substitute for the other! If I've misunderstood, don't bother reading any farther. A vang keeps your boom positioned horizontally when you ease the sail (i.e., when reaching and running). You will need at least 4:1 purchase and 8:1 is even better, given the size of the Banshee mainsail. It should also be double-ended you can adjust the vang while hiking from either side of the boat. Incidentally, it's easy to make a 4:1 system into an 8:1 system. If you want another sketch, let me know. The jc strap, on the other hand, is used only in light air, and functions to keep the boom to leeward even when you heel the boat to windward (which you should do going downwind in very light air). The jc strap is unnecessary and shouldn't be used unless you're sailing in very light air (or believe you'll encounter light air at some time during a race).

[Mike has a page entitled "Rigging Your Banshee" on the Nat'l page site. It has some great tips on using a vang, J-C Strap, bailers, daggerboard gasket, hiking straps, and a tiller "preventer."]

At 09:14 AM 3/20/00 -0400, you wrote:

>Mike,

>Thanks so much for taking the time to explain and illustrate the JC-Strap. I got your drawings this weekend and TRUELY a picture is worth a thousand words... On-line friends who go to such lengths are worth a lot more!

>I've ordered a 4:1 Vang and will give it a shot first -- if that is as useless as a few folks have told me I'll try the JC-Strap. I may even try to rig up a combo Vang/JC-Strap contraption. I really like the idea of the boom "hoist" [also called a top lift of boom lift] and will implement that on my next sail.

>Thanks again,
>Steve

------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2000
To: banshee
From: brian hughes
Subject: sail for sale ???

can anyone direct me to someone that has a new or used sail for sale

Brian Hughes

------------------------------------------------------------

From: "J. Bob Crotts"
To: 
Subject: sail
Date: Tue, 25 Apr 2000

I am looking for a sail as my sail was stolen. Could someone point me in the right direction to replace my sail , I do recreational sailng

Thanks Bob

------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Bill Wright"
To: 
Subject: Banshee Class
Date: Sun, 7 May 2000

Is there an active Banshee racing class.  I have a boat that's been in storage for years, and might race it if there was a fleet within a reasonable distance of southeast Michigan.

------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 07 May 2000
From: Bob Esperanza
Subject: Banshee site
To: Steve Bonham

Found your rigging site today, and saw a lot of informative stuff. I was wondering if you had anything in the way of templates for the daggerboard or rudder? I'm without a set and could really use some ideas for making one. Thanks.

[Daggerboard design]

------------------------------------------------------------

From: TRUDYCONNERS
Date: Fri, 26 May 2000
Subject: banshee
To: sbonham

I am sorry to ask you this, but I have just acquired a banshee sailboat and need to know how to rig it correctly. Since I have obviously visited your web site, for some reason I can't seem to print your documents off the Internet. Could you please email me the documents so that I can print them. I am also in need of some replacement parts if you know of any information about where I might get them from could you please forward that information also. New sailor.

------------------------------------------------------------

To: TRUDYCONNERS
From: Steve Bonham
Subject: Re: banshee

Hi Trudy,

Try this Rigging Your Banshee spot-- (my online html document) or

a pdf version of the same info
Hope it helps, Steve

------------------------------------------------------------

To: BansheeGuys
From: Steve Bonham
Subject: Rigging Your Banshee Updated

Hey Banshee Sailors,

Just finished uploading my new and revised "Rigging Your Banshee" pages. Comments, suggestions welcome.

Steve

------------------------------------------------------------

From: TRUDYCONNERS
Date: Sat, 3 Jun 2000
Subject: Banshee
To: sbonham

Steve,

Thank you for helping me get to your sight so that I could print out all the rigging information for my Sailboat. The person that I purchased it from did not know how to rig it right and I would like to learn to appropriate way. I just picked up by boat today and am excited to get the information and get out in the yard to practice rigging it.

Thanks again. Trudy

------------------------------------------------------------

To: TRUDYCONNERS
From: Steve Bonham
Subject: Re: Banshee

Trudy,

You are welcome. Glad I could help. Where are you going to go sailing with your new (to you) Banshee? If you have any trouble with the instructions let me know-- Steve

------------------------------------------------------------

From: TRUDYCONNERS
Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2000
Subject: Re: Banshee
To: sbonham

I didn't have any problems rigging the boat. I plan to sail the boat on the lake 6 minutes from my home, Lake Thunderbird in Oklahoma.

Thanks again, Trudy

------------------------------------------------------------

To: "Mike Sullivan"
From: Steve Bonham
Subject: Re: Rigging your Banshee

Hi Mike,

In my "Rigging Your Banshee" pages I mention the weight and lenghts and on my main Banshee page there are links to places to purchase this stuff on-line. Good luck, Steve

>Thanks for the reply! The info is great. I am still in the process of getting her ready to sail. I had to replace the teak, Wow that stuff is expensive! Everything seems functional. I am a little worried about the hull taking so much sun over the years. Hopefully this summer I will get her on the water.

>I do have one question: What type of rope should I use for the lines. I will figure out the sizes but I don't know what material to use or where to get it.

>Again thanks for the info, you will really help me a bunch when the time comes to put it all back together.

>--Mike

------------------------------------------------------------

From: "BRYAN A. BENTZ"
To: Steve Bonham
Date: Fri, 9 Jun 2000
Subject: Re: Rigging Your Banshee Updated

I put a pointer to the rigging page(s) on the main Banshee page. Bryan

------------------------------------------------------------

From: RUSSGROVE
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000
Subject: new banshee owner
To: sbonham

Hi, I just found your web site after some searching. I recently found a Banshee and am excited but no nothing about sailing. Your information is great since I have had to do lots of repair and the rigging was not clear. Thanks for providing this essential information.

Russ Grove

------------------------------------------------------------

To: RUSSGROVE
From: Steve Bonham
Subject: Re: new banshee owner

Glad the banshee stuff was useful Russ, Where do you sail? BTW, there is a great book for beginning sailors that you may find useful-- _Sailing for Dummies_. It covers dingies to crewed boats. Well worth the $20. I've been sailed for 7 years now and read several boks--- it's the best one out there.

Best of luck with your Banshee, Steve

------------------------------------------------------------

From: Tyler Colt
To: sbonham
Subject: rigging direction
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000

Steve,

Just went through your direction on rigging banshees. Want to thank you for a great job and welcome resource. My experience was been with BeetleCats (old wooden gaff rigged dinghy's of Cape Cod) and Coronado's mostly. Recently got my hands on Banshee and now can double check a few things I've been doing against your directions. Great job! - Thanks. Tyler

S. Tyler Colt

------------------------------------------------------------

To: Tyler Colt
From: Steve Bonham
Subject: Re: rigging direction

Hey Tyler,

Thanks for your comments. Sorry to reply so late-- been sailing on Roanoake Sound on the outer banks of NC. A wonderful place to sail the banshee if you can get there.

Best of luck with your bird. Steve

------------------------------------------------------------

To: Byeager1945
From: Steve Bonham
Subject: Re: Thank you for the Rigging Instructions....

Hey Bill,

Glad that you found the pages useful. Where do you sail? And are you aware of the other Banshee websites- Brian's and the Folsom lake group? Steve

------------------------------------------------------------

From: Byeager1945
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000
Subject: Re: Thank you for the Rigging Instructions....
To: sbonham

Hi Steve,

Yes, I am aware of the other Banshee Websites. They were the first sites I found when I first bought the boat. It is great to read about the adventures of others. I sail mostly on state park lakes here in central Pa. and also on Seneca Lake in New York State. I'm not into racing, I just like to put up the sail, lay back, and go where the wind takes me. It is very relaxing for me. Thanks for you interest.

------------------------------------------------------------

From: Byeager1945
Date: Sat, 30 Sep 2000
Subject: Re: Thank you...
To: sbonham

Steve, It was only about 2.5 miles across - round trip of 5 miles. For me, it was a great experience. I gained some confidence. Next year, I hope to sail "down" the lake towards Watkins Glen and back. Maybe double my distance.

Thanks for your interest. Bill

------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Magnus Emilsson"
Subject: Banshee rigging
Date: Fri, 21 Jul 2000

Dear Steve,

Thank you for your well done rigging guide for the Banshee. It has been a big help. A few weeks ago I picked-up a Banshee with two sails (original white and rainbow color) and trailer for a reasonable price. It needs a little work, but is mostly serviceable. I made a new centerboard gasket out of and old motorcycle innertube, like you mentioned. My transom is a little weak, but will probably last at least a few more seasons. My boom had been repaired by a previous owner reasonably well, but I made it a little better by adding a washer to the pin that goes into the center of the boom, to handle the thrust load. I will definitely add a "boom lift line" as you have shown. To keep the rudder from falling out, I drilled a hole in the bottom rudder gudgeon pin for a hair-pin-clip, and put a lanyard on it. Right now all I need to sail are some plugs

Thanks again.
Magnus Emilsson Wallingford, CT

------------------------------------------------------------

To: "Magnus Emilsson"
From: Steve Bonham
Subject: Re: Banshee rigging

Hi Magnus,

You are quite welcome-- glad it was helpful. That's a good idea on the rudder. I'll check that possibily on my set-up.

Happy sailing, Steve

------------------------------------------------------------

From: JayL271
Date: Sat, 22 Jul 2000
Subject: New Banshee
To: sbonham

Steve: Thanks for the tips. I just bought a 10 year-old yellow banshee. Much to my surprise, there was no halyard, just a small clip at the top of the mast for the grommet. Thanks to your page, it looks like an easy fix for this novice sailer.

Happy Sailing,
Jay Lichter Old Lyme, CT.

------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Michael Mairs"
To: Steve Bonham
Subject: sail stays
Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000

I just bought a Banshee. 2 sails. how many stays, how long? per sail

thanks, mike mairs

------------------------------------------------------------

To: "Michael Mairs"
From: Steve Bonham
Subject: Re: sail stays

Mike,

To my knowledge no one is staying their mast-- I've been curious myself as to if anyone is using a jib or genoa on a Banshee. So far, I have not found anyone that is. Did you try contacting the guys at Lake Folsom, California? or Brian Bentz at MIT? Steve

------------------------------------------------------------

To: "Michael Mairs"
From: Steve Bonham
Subject: Re: OK then, battens

Mike,

Try this webpage: Banshee Sailplan. It has an illustration of sail with 4 batten pockets. Lengths are 36", 36", 30" and 18" I'm not sure what you mean by "taper"-- but hopefully this page and the other associated pages in the Banshee Racing rulebook will help.

Steve

------------------------------------------------------------

To: "mike"
From: Steve Bonham
Subject: Re: OK then, battens

Mike,

You're welcome. I didn't know that those things were called stays-- Learn some everyday, eh? Best of luck with your Banshee. Steve

>Thanks so much.
>in my collar they are stays, of course in sails they are battens. thanks for your patience, things are coming together nicely.
>mike mairs
>-----

------------------------------------------------------------

From: "mike"
To: "Steve Bonham"
Subject: Re: OK then, battens
Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2000

Thanks so much. in my collar they are stays, of course in sails they are battens. thanks for your patience, things are coming together nicely.

mike mairs

------------------------------------------------------------

To: Smocinlizard
From: Steve Bonham
Subject: Re: (no subject)

Hey Randy,

Glad you found the pages useful. Where are you going to sail your Banshee? Breezy days, Steve

>Steve, I really appreciate your great rigging instructions for the Banshee. I've had mine I bought mine from a guy that raced them about ten years ago. I only sailed it a few times then stored it for all these years. Well this weekend I'm going to give it another shot. Your rigging instructions were great. Thanks.
>Randy

------------------------------------------------------------

From: RAugur
Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000
Subject: Ho
To: sbonham

I am trying to gather information as to what the worth is of a Banshee in good operating condition is, including a trailer.

Thank you for your help, R. Augur

------------------------------------------------------------

To: RAugur
From: Steve Bonham
Subject: Re: Ho

R,

I paid $500 for boat and trailer (includeds sails, daggerboard, etc.) when mine was already 15 years old back around 1992. It has been well worth the hours of fun it has provided. Steve

>I am trying to gather information as to what the worth is of a Banshee in good operating condition is, including a trailer. Thank you for your help,
>R. Augur

------------------------------------------------------------

From: CHNix
Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2000
Subject: Banshee vs Sunfish
To: sbonham

Steve: About thee years ago I took a sailing class and really enjoyed sailing. I am now looking at buying a boat. In the class, I sailed a Butterfly. I have been looking at Sunfish but have come across a Banshee that is in good shape. Since I am a novice can you tell me which boat may be more appropriate for me. I live in north Georgia (Rome) and will be sailing on local lakes and along the Gulf. Since you also live in Georgia, can you tell me which months we usually have adequate wind to enjoy the sport? Any comparrisons that you can give between the two boats is apprciated.

Chuck

------------------------------------------------------------

To: CHNix
From: Steve Bonham
Subject: Re: Banshee vs Sunfish

Hi Chuck,

Memories... I learned to sail in a Sunfish. Good little boat. Not as fast as a Banshee. Can't take many folks with you. But it is a sturdy boat- and the company )Vanguard) still exists and will be there for parts, etc.

My Comparison: Some of these are specs some are my personal ratings (personal ratings [on a 10 point scale- with 10 ideal] marked with *).
  Sunfish (Vanguard) Banshee
Length 13'9" 13'
Beam 49" 60"
Draft 36" (centerboard) 46" (daggerboard)
Weight (hull) 140 lbs 130 lbs
Transport
Note: it takes TWO to get either cartopped!
cartop,trailer cartop,trailer
# passengers singlehander