 |
My
Banshee E-mail Archive
(Search it for keywords
of interest to you)
Please
note! I made links where I thought they would be useful. Most links
open a new window to the targeted page. I'll try to maintain this by adding
new messages and making corrections/additions when suggestions are made.
Feel free to send photos, illustrations, and links where they will add
value.
ADVICE
FOR USE: This document if well over 100 pages long! From your browser
menus select; Edit > Find... and type a keyword of interest (for instance;
"rudder"). You can then "Find next" repeatedly untill you have searched
the archive.
Thanks
for all the great info! Steve
Current
Content: June 22, 1999 - October 21, 2003
|
|
Steve's
Banshee Page | National
Banshee Class Page | Fleet
One Page
|
Date:
Tue, 22 Jun 1999
From:
Rebecca 'Robbi' Adams - massageworks@therapist.net
To:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: Banshee
Hi
Steve,
No,
I did not find a jib sail. I did not know that you could put a jib sail
on this boat. I have heard from CA that it is a very fast boat with the
sail that is provided for it. I am sailing with my six year old I do not
think it needs to be any faster. I am getting a very clear picture that
I would be overturned very often if I had a jib to bother with. Anyway,
I have never heard of any jib for this one. No one in CA has mentioned
that. A gentleman answered my e-mail from Sacramento about the sails and
the deal was his two oldest sails for $100.00. He had a new one made. You
can get a new one made for $325.00-$525.00.
Sherron
at Hart Sails made them for him. She owns the rights to the racing
sails. You can not race in a one class race with just any sail, you must
use her sails or the one that came with the boat. He said that he races
this boat quite a bit. He did not have anything for me as far a pictures
for rigging, so I have been lost about that until now, so THANK YOU! I
really appreciate that!
Have
you ever taken your boat to Clarks hill reservoir near Augusta? That is
where I learned how to sail my father's Coronado 15 when I was a little
girl. I brought it down here to FL when I left home and sailed every day
until my father felt the need to sell it. It has been ten years since I
have been in a sailboat. I will get to put it together today because the
sails should be here! I cut and sanded my centerboard yesterday. I just
have to finish it with marine polyurethane and we are off! By the way I
have the official
one class racing rule book for the Banshee do you have that? I would
be glad to send that to you. I do not have a flier for the boat though.
Does it have more information about the boat that is not in your pictures?
I would love to know how your center board fits in the trunk? I have to
get cracking on that center board if I want it to be dry and waterproof
by the time I need to get it in the water!
Thank
you again! ~Robbi:-)
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
Rebecca 'Robbi' Adams
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: Banshee
Hi
Robbi,
I'm
not sure that you CAN put a jib on the Banshee. It just seemed to be rigged
for it with the side cleats and deck-nose fixture. I'd like to get some
experience in using more than one sail. I hope in the new couple of years
to move to a "upper twenty-something/lower thirty something" older Catalina
(or similar). I want to try some overnite sailing off the coast. The Banshee
is a joy to sail! In a 10 mile and hour breeze it flies. Beware! My son
(now 15) was scared to death at age 6 when I first started taking him out...
He was terrified of heeling until I spent a couple of hours practicing
intentional capsizes with him in a moderate wind close to shore. He learned
to right the boat by himself (all 60 pounds of him!). After that he was
okay. FYI, here is the process for righting the boat:
1.
release the mainsheet cleat (IMPORTANT!);
2.
swim around to the daggerboard/hull;
3.
climb onto the daggerboard (stay close to the hull);
4.
grasp the edge of the decking;
5.
position your feet as necessary (if you are light more toward the tip of
the daggerboard) and lean away from the boat.
6.
as it rights -- DUCK UNDER THE BOOM! and climb into the boat.
NEW! Capsize
recovery animation 1.5 MB
I've
been to Clarks-Hill a few times. I usually go sailing off Pickney Island
(just this western side of Hilton Head, S.C.). --Sailing with the dolphins!
It is a real kick.
The
Banshee
flier is an 11 x 17 one sheet with pictures and line drawings (same
side and top shots I used). Photo shows a child "surfing" on the foredeck
and another shows the same child righting the boat after a capsize (probably
seconds after the first photo!). There is nothing of substance in the flier--
that's why I had put the rigging material together. I had to figure it
our myself with some suggestions from my father-in-law who used to race
in the J-24 class in San Diego. Tell me more about your daggerboard. What
did you make it with? Mine is pretty sad looking. It's the original cedar(?)
but has several missing chunks and even more plastic-like filled areas
where there USED to be missing chunks! I'm thinking of building a new one
too. You said: >I would love to know how your center board fits in the
trunk? Do you mean in the daggerboard well or the trunk of your car!? During
transport I bungee mine into the boat. It is rather large for a car trunk...
If you mean in the daggerboard well-- Fit it in however you'd like. In
the front, centered, or toward the back; straight down/angle back-- It
all depends on the load in your boat and the sailing conditions. I usually
have mine positioned in the front of the well pointing straight down. I
bungee it in pretty snuggly- or it tends to pop up when the wind dies.
I'm in the process now of replacing my rotten transom. Banshees are notorious
for this BTW. Keep them OUT of the weather. Mine had been stored outside
on the trailer tipped so that it would drain-- but water got under the
fiberglass in between the plywood layers and it has rotted significantly.
I could pinch the transom walls and there was a LOT of flexibility in several
areas --that was a major concern. I tried some of the "solutions" offered
via the Banshee list ("GitRot") to no avail. So this weekend I'm doing
major surgery. My boat has been out of action since last summer. I'm looking
forward to getting it back into service. I'd love to have the "racing rules
book" you mentioned. Is it faxable? If so I'm at 912.681.0099. If not,
my snail mail is in my sig. I do not anticipate doing any racing-- but
who knows... Well- better get back to work. I hope you and your son have
a greatly successful first sail!
Enjoy
the water! Steve
------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 24 Jun 1999
From:
Rebecca 'Robbi' Adams
To:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: Banshee
Hello
Steve,
I will
send the rule book today via snail mail. It is very simple. I have some
questions for you. Do you not use the side cleats at all? What is the transom
and the thwart? Do you have a cleat on the deck by the mast? I am having
a hard time finding a basic sailing book to read. Everything here is very
advanced. Just a beginning book would be nice. If you know of one send
the ISBN # and I will order it. I got my sails today and I have checked
them out. They are both fitted with a sock on the end so it does not need
a halyard. The cunngingham just pulls it down. Evidently the racers in
CA all do it this way. I hear that they haven't seen a halyard for this
boat in a long time. I guess that is one less thing they have to worry
about while sailing. I guess that will do it for now.
Thanks
for all the info!
~Robbi:-)
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
Rebecca 'Robbi' Adams
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: Banshee
Hi
Robbi,
I suppose
that is the side cleats are not used for a jib then they must be for tying
up to the dock...? Yeah. It's not really a standard "cleat." I have two
"friction" cleats on the deck by the mast well. They are V shaped. There
is a hole nearest the tip of the V. Feed the line thru the hole and up
thru the V. Pressure from the line "pinches" the line between the sides
of the V.
The
book I love is entitled "Sailing for Dummies" ISBN is 0-7645-5039-X Couldn't
be simpler.
You
can order it at Amazon.com. I paid
about $15 I think.
A sock--
huh? That would worry me. I've been caught out in a thunderstorm a couple
of times in my Banshee and I was blown all over EVEN WITH THE SAIL DOWN!
The only defense would be an intentional capsize with a sock in place...
??? You might want to think about that issue carefully.
Steve
------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 24 Jun 1999
From:
Rebecca 'Robbi' Adams
To:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: Banshee
I have
gotten my sails today and the guy who sold them to me races this boat all
of the time. I will send a copy of his diagrams to you. You will then see
what the cleats on the side are for. The light bulb went on when I saw
his diagram. I will have to find out about the windy sailing and he said
that if I wanted to I could take the top of the sock off to have a halyard
if I wanted to but not very many of the racers do that out there. Even
the sail he just had made he had the top of the sleeve put on. I don't
know I am just glad to have a sail for this boat. New ones are terribly
expensive. Well you should get some things in the mail from me soon. Let
me know if you've gotten them. I am ordering that book tonight.
Thank
you! ~Robbi :-)
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
Rebecca 'Robbi' Adams
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: Banshee
Hi
Robbi,
Finally!
I've loacted the Banshee Flier. I had lost in in one of the many piles
in my office [we've been changing offices]. Could you send your fax number
again? I'll get it out today. How's the sailing going? I've cut my old
rotten transom off-- and been glassing, sanding, glassing, sanding, etc.
for a solid week now.... No, not the transom. Everything else! :-( Found
hairline cracks on the hull, on the edges of the daggerboard well, in the
mast well, one major crack on the deck, etc. A major overhaul. But it's
long overdue. Can't wait to get it in the water. Did you see John P's latest
post (You were mentioned there)? The story on the U-31 was a hoot.
Have
a good one, Steve
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
banshee
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Old Banshee Flier Online
Hey
Banshee fans,
I've
have a number of requests for a copy of my rare Banshee "Operators Manual"
(dare I call it that?) since I mentioned it a few years ago. Since the
last request I decided it might be a good resource to "webize"-- So, I've
done so. It's at brochure.html.
Remember it's 1970's(?) vintage. Some of the info (regarding the Banshee
association) probably is not current.
Enjoy,
Steve
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
"Chris Freeman" - c-n-free@worldnet.att.net
To:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Banshee info
Date:
Thu, 1 Jul 1999
Thanks
for sharing the info & the link. I am continually amazed at the enthusiasm
of this fleet.
Regards,
Chris
Lone
Carolina Banshee owner 411
------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 01 Jul 1999
From:
Chris Freeman
To:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: Banshee info
Lake
Murray, SC. I primarily crew on a J/24 (foredeck) We do a lot of racing
here on our lake & go to regattas in Charleston, Wrightsville Beach
NC, Lake Lanier GA, & Augusta GA. The Banshee, I horse traded for with
a canoe & a little cash. It has been a fun little boat, but having
the only one on the lake it's not easily raced. We also have a Catalina
22, though I still would rather race on a J.
Fair
winds, Chris
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
Mountnr
Date:
Sat, 3 Jul 1999
Subject:
Boat questions
To:
banshee
I bought
a Banshee recently, have a few questions.
1)
What is the line that is attached to the head of the sail for?
[Halyard-
for raising sail if you do not have a "sock" style sleeve.]
2)
Is wrapping the sail around the mast the best way to reef? [not advised--
if blowing that hard go in]
3)
Is a halyard a good idea and if so , what is the best way to rig it?
4)
My hull says BSD06504M79K. Does that mean I have boat number 6504, which
was built in 1979?
[For
the answer the the last question see: HIN
(Hull Identification Humbers) Info here]
Thanks
very much in advance!
Sincerely,
Bill Potts Livermore, Ca
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
Bryan Bentz
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: Old Banshee Flier Online
Hi
Bryan,
You
are welcome to link to or clone the pages. However, I'm webmaster here
at our Center and don't see any problem with keeping them here for a long
time. Steve
>Thats
great! I'll stick in a pointer from the Banshee page I've got. If you ever
have any difficulty hosting what you have, I'd be proud to maintain copies
at the (zero cost) MIT site.
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
"John Poimiroo"
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: Old Banshee Flier Online
Thanks
John.
Sure
do enjoy your fleet reports! The last one re the C-31 was a HOOT! :-) Ever
thought about archiving them? If you have photos to add they could be a
neat web resource. I look forward to seeing your flier. If you need assistance
with layout it out let me know.
Steve
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
Brian F Larson - bflarson@cnde.iastate.edu
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: Old Banshee Flier Online
No
sweat Brian.
It
was a "labor of love" and a trip down memory lane-- and it will reduce
time spent locating and faxing the stuff in the future. Many folks sailing
Banshees in Iowa? Steve
>Thanks,
Steve.
>I
found the information interesting and I appreciate your effort to get the
material on the Internet.
>Brian
F. Larson
>
Associate Scientist Center for NDE Iowa State University
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
DIALSF@aol.com
Date:
Fri, 2 Jul 1999
Subject:
Re: Old Banshee Flier Online
To:
sbonham
Hi
Steve
Iam
not an official member of the fleet but love sailing my Banshee up at Scotts
Flat Lake in the Sierra's every Summer! I was, years ago in the 60s, General
Mgr. of Marine Plastics Inc., the original Mfg. of the Banshee, and my
(former) brother in Law Dick Reid, designed the Banshee and we built the
first generation up to the time that Dick sold his interest to Barry Brook
and production resumed in Santa Cruz, Calif. some years later. We also
built the Flying Dutchman, 21 ft. Olympic Class and the trainer for that
class, the Flying Dutchman Jr. 16 ft. Sloop. Thank you again for the flier,
it was very nastalgic indeed ! Have a wonderful Fourth of July and stay
in touch when you have time.
Sincerely,
Skip Stanyan
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
DIALSF
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: Old Banshee Flier Online
Skip!
Gee,
you're a good guy to have in the neighborhood! I'm currently replacing
my Banshee transom. Could I ask for some advice? I've cut the old rotten
thing off and I'm in the process of patching some small hairline cracks
in the hull. Soon I plan to add as many swimming pool noodles as I can
wedge into the flotation cells. Last time I had her out she took on a LOT
of water... Then I'll put a new transom back on. Here's my plan -- please
review & let me know if I'm on the right track... I'm no boatwright--
but do enjoy learning new things. Thanks in advance.
The
plan...
1.
cut pressure-treated 3/4 plywood from old transom "template" Is this the
same as marine plywood? If not, What's the diff? Should I cover this with
with a few layers of fiberglass PRIOR to step 2? I noticed that the original
(?) transom did not-
2.
Use Bondo to join transom to flotation cells and deck. I'm planning to
use a come-along or such to secure parts during curing. I'll brace the
backside of the transom with a couple of 2x4's to prevent the transom from
bending inward toward the come-along.
3.
Glass over all junctures... 6-8 layers (mat,cloth,mat,cloth,mat, cloth,mat,
cloth).
4.
Gelcoat or paint with enamel
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
"Blosen, Bill" - bill.blosen@compaq.com
Subject:
RE: Banshee hull numbers
Date:
Tue, 6 Jul 1999
HI,
After
hearing questions about the Banshee hull numbers I thought I would pass
this along: check out this website it will answer ALL your questions:http://boatsafe.com/nauticalknowhow/hin.html
On the other questions: 1 ) I am not sure. Adjustable attachment to top
of mast, instead of a shackle? 2) I think so. 3) I would only have a halyard
if I anticipated having to lower the sail while on the water. On the beach,
just carefully roll the boat on to its side, walk to the end of the mast
in order to detach and lower the sail. 4) PS: banshee hull numbers and
sail numbers do not match. I assume it was easier that way at the factory.
Regards, Bill Blosen Compaq Computers
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
"Gary Siegle" - oscar@one.net
Subject:
User Manual
Date:
Thu, 8 Jul 1999
I was
wondering when these boat where sold if they had a users manual with them
would like to know. And if so if they are still available somewhere.
thanks Gary
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
"Gary Siegle"
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: User Manual
Check
out mainpage
on an on-line version.
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
"Rilla McColl" - rmccoll@mediaone.net
Subject:
Banshee
Date:
Mon, 12 Jul 1999
We
have a 1978 Banshee whose papers claim it is 14 feet, but the web site
I got the e-mail address off thinks Banshees are 13. In any case, the thing
that holds the mast into the bottom of the boat is broken. (Perhaps it's
called a step - perhaps not. Sorry to be so non-nautical.) We would dearly
love to fix it and would appreciate any ideas on how to go about it.
Thanks!
Pete
and Rilla McColl
Ponte
Vedra Beach, FL
------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 19 Jul 1999
Subject:
new e-mail address
From:
f j goeckner
Hi
Guys,
[e-mail
address comment deleted] I also have a new sail from Sherron Hart which
looks & works pretty nice. Now I have to find a race to test it out.
Fritz
Goeckner
------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 20 Jul 1999
From:
John Maguire
To:
Banshee
Subject:
Banshee web site and email letter
Hi.
My information is below. I ran into Charlie Hess yesterday at Huntington
Lake, California. I've owned a banshee since 1984 and recently got another
used one because it was in better shape (didn't leak!) both banshees are
25-30 years old. I want to know the web address for the web page, and also
be on any Banshee email list.
Please
sign me up!
John
Maguire
------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 20 Jul 1999
From:
Wendy Pebler
Subject:
Banshee for Sale
For
Sale 14 foot Banshee Sailboat, Gold with white interior Fully rigged Rainbow
Sail Trailer All in great shape Registrations up to date $600.00
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
"Bruce Hatch"
Subject:
Banshee for sale
Date:
Thu, 22 Jul 1999
I have
a banshee, built for coastguard training program, for sale. I am located
in Ukiah, CA (about 110mi North of S.F.) w/trailer. $500.00.
------------------------------------------------------------
Date
sent: Sun, 01 Aug 1999
From:
Christopher Wright
Subject:
Instructions
I have
purchaced a used Banshee and need rigging instructions, if any one can
help.
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: Maintainence Help for my Banshee
DJ,
This
seems to be a classic problem with Banshees. I'm in the final stages of
completing a transom replacement on my 1976 vintage Banshee. I tried some
cheap fixes that worked for a while... First, put some layers of new glass
across the top of the transom and reinforced the hull/transom junctures.
This just delayed the major repair job-- Not a good fix.
How
bad is the rotting? When I bought my Banshee (used in 1990) it had deliminated
on the outer edges of the transom. I suspected some rot but it didn't appear
to be serious until a couple of years ago. If the damage is minimal and
localized you can try "Git-Rot" an expensive (4 oz. bottle is about $30)
penetrating resin that will harden the rotten areas (Really HARD - rock
hard!). Just drill holes (many small holes are better than fewer larger
holes) into the damaged areas. Let it drain. Amazing how much water the
transom plywood will hold! My boat was still dripping after a week....
My guess was that it was holding about 5-10 ounces. When your boat has
not dripped for a week or so "inject" the Git-Rot. Let it cure (I waited
2 weeks) and fill and relaminate the work areas. Git-rot got me thru 2
summers- but the other untreated areas continued to breakdown. Last time
I was out sailing I noticed that the interior transom wall (where the rudder
linkage hardware is visible) was "spongy" -- I could pinch it with my fingers
and compress it 1/8 of an inch. I decided to overhaul the whole thing.
I cut
off the old transom with a circular saw.
[I
don't suggest doing this! It was a lot more work than I thought. Do this
instead --->GREAT TRANSOM REPAIR ADVICE!!!
]
It
was pretty badly rotted-- and flakey except where I treated it with Git-Rot
(I had only used one small bottle). If I used three I might have avoided
this. :-( Using the old transom as a template (minus 1/4 inch along the
bottom edge-- you'll make it up with laminate) I cut a new one from 3/4
inch pressure-treated plywood. I laminated the transom to the extreme...
Fiberglas Mat, more mat, cloth, mat, cloth, cloth (Yes, the transom is
heavy now). Drilled temporary holes into the transom so I could winch it
into place against the hull/aircells for bonding and laminating. I'm putting
the final layers of laminate on now. She's almost as good as new. The transom
replacment has been interesting but NOT fun. My new nickname at home is
"sticky" and I've spent a small fortune on resin, acetone, and fiberglass
material at the local Lowes. My advice -- Sand off the entire aft wall
of your transom-- thru the gelcoat and glass until you get down to the
plywood. Let it dry out. Inject the git-rot GENEROUSLY. Let it cure. Rebuild
and shape the original transom wall with bondo or another good shapable
filler. Reglass generously. Get Git-Rot... and plenty of it.
Steve
>The
rubber strip on top of my transom was loose and water has gotten into the
wood which has started to delaminate and rot. Any ideas on how to repair
this?
>Thanks,
>djinoregon
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
Djinoregon - Djinoregon@aol.com
Date:
Wed, 4 Aug 1999
Subject:
Re: Maintainence Help for my Banshee
To:
sbonham
Thanks
for the great ideas on fixing my transom. I was hoping for a quick fix
so I could get in some more sailing this year but after reading your message
I think I"d rather make this my winter project and do it right. This boat
has been with my family for 20 years and holds some sentimental value.
DJ
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
Mountnr
Date:
Wed, 25 Aug 1999
Subject:
Traveler and mainsheet system
To:
banshee
Would
like to know what brand and model traveler people are using for their Banshee.
Also, what type of mainsheet block and cleat? I am using the stock set-up
but want to switch, Thanks alot, Bill Potts
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
"Lane, Brian L MVR" - brian.l.lane@usace.army.mil
To:
"'banshee"
Subject:
new banshee owner
Date:
Tue, 14 Sep 1999
I have
just bought a used banshee and would like and info on the proper maintenance
and setup.
Thank
You
Brian
L. Lane
U.S.
Army Corps of Engineers,
Rock
Island District Engineering Division
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
"R.W.Barnes"
To:
Subject:
Where have You Been?
Date:
Tue, 14 Sep 1999
Hi:
I bought my Banshee back in the early 1970's when my wife made me sell
my big Islander cruiser. I loved it then, although I am getting a little
long in the tooth for the acrobatics it requires. About 10 years ago My
son hit a rock, flipped and lost the upper lower mast and rudder. We didn't
know where to go for replacement parts so we had to get a (shudder) Laser
sail, mast and tiller assembly. So now we have a "Blazer". We really cant
tell any difference in sailing characteristics and the boat has still the
much superior cockpit layout to the Laser. Anyway, in case we lose anything
else on the boat, can you tell us were we can get Banshee replacement parts?
Thanks
Dick
Barnes
Lake
Wylie SC
------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 26 Sep 1999
From:
"Cecil Davis Jr."
Subject:
Sails
There
is a Banshee for sale in my area and I'm thinking of purchasing it, but
there is no sail with the boat. I was wondering if you could give me any
info as where to buy one. I would appreciate any information that you could
e-mail me.
Cecil
Davis
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
LASERJIMC
Date:
Wed, 29 Sep 1999
Subject:
Re: Banshee Daggerboard
Last
I heard, Kim Desenburg, North Coast Yachts, Oakland, CA had parts and tooling
for the Banshee. In case you do'nt find a factory board, dimensions per
the 6/1/79 rules book are: span below keelson 32 1/2" chord at keelson
11 1/2" chord at max. span 8 1/2" maximum thickness 1" Shape and dimensions
above bottom of hull are unrestricted. The section, while unspecified,
approximates an NACA 0006 airfoil. My experience is that shape and finish
of board and rudder are critical if you expect the boat to point and perform
well.
Jim
Christopher
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
tom-miller
To:
banshee
Subject:
My new banshee
Date:
Mon, 25 Oct 1999
I got
a banshee at a yard sale the other day. The hull seems to be in OK shape.
The standing rigging is all there and the sail is probably useable, at
least for a while. But most of the running rigging is gone or in really
bad shape. Has anyone got some drawings or pictures that show detail as
to where lines should be run and blocks should be installed? The last time
I sailed a banshee was at least ten years ago and I just don't remember
any more. Maybe there are some banshees in the SF bay area I could visit
and see how they are rigged.
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
tom-miller
To:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: My new banshee
Date:
Sun, 31 Oct 1999
I looked
at the brochure. The drawing that showed the basic rigging is helpful.
Thanks.
>Hi
Tom,
>I
have a handout I made for a sailing class years back. Give me a fax number
and I'll send it on.
>Also
check out: > Banshee Home
>Steve
------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 05 Jan 2000
From:
Steve C - schai@rust.net
To:
"banshee"
Subject:
Wanted: used Banshee Sail
I'm
looking to buy a used Banshee Sail. There is no racing around here, so
maybe one of you racers has an older one in decent conditon. My sail got
pilfered so I now have none. I still have to redo the rotted transom and
the ice melt before I can go sailing again. Thanks for any leads.
Steve
Chaikin
Whitmore
Lake, Michigan (734) 449 8889
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
"Donald Dahl" - donwecarerose@mindspring.com
To:
Subject:
Banshee?
Date:
Thu, 6 Jan 2000
Your
web site is a great find!!!! As my wife and I have Recently accuired a
1977 Banshee that seems to be in very good shape but neither of us have
a clue on how to rig it nor do either of us have any sailing experiance
hopfuly we will be able to hook-up with some of the Banshee owners here
in the Sacramento aera as we see there are quite a few. Please add as to
your list, we live in Sacramento.
Thanks
Donald
and Rochelle Dahl
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
"Dean Eppley"
Banshee
Racers, Folsom Lake Yacht Club has passed out the Race Committee
assignments for the year and the open centerboard fleet has been given
the second race day of each series. Since when I look around the
only non-keelboat racers I see are Banshees, we're it. If you are
interested in doing race committee for a race day, please give me a call
916-985-4236, or send me an e-mail. No experience is required since
we train. Guests, kids, nice dogs etc. are welcome if arranged in
advance. It is a great way for new racers or the uninitiated to see
what it is like. (Plus the Banshee committees are always a fun time!!!).
Thanks to our own Craig Lee for doing committee last weekend - he did a
great job in spite of the less than stellar wind conditions!
Banshee Committees needed for.... · Frostbite #2, Saturday January
22, 2000 (roughly 9 AM - 3 PM, Folsom Lake Marina ) - Dean and Daria will
be there - others are welcome.· · Spring #2, Saturday March
25, 2000 (roughly 9 AM -3 PM) - Race chairman and crew needed.·
· Summer #2 (Date not yet set) - Race chairman and crew needed.·
· Fall #2 (Date not yet set) - Race chairman and crew needed.·
Thanks!
Dean Eppley
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
"Dean Eppley"
The
Sacramento Banshee Fleet web page is now available with Banshee event dates
listed. The address is http://www.geocities.com/banshee_fleet_one
Thanks, Dean Eppley
------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 17 Jan 2000
From:
Ken Perine
To:
banshee
Subject:
My new Banshee Project
I just
purchased a Banshee Sailboat the needs some transom work because part of
the core has become de-laminated. I was wondering if anyone else had this
experience and what they did to fully repair the boat. I also am in need
of the proper way to rig the boat for class racing. Are travelers allowed?
Are there sail type restrictions? I also am not sure if the centerboard
I received with it is the stock type. I need to know the dimensions of
the centerboard, including minimum weight. I hope to have this boat fully
operational by April and so would appreciate any speedy responses I can
get. (Late responses ok to)
Ken
Perine
------------------------------------------------------------
From: DIALSF
Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000
Subject: Check out Banshee Page - [GREAT TRANSOM REPAIR
ADVICE!!!]
To: kenperin
CC: banshee
Click
here: Banshee Page
Ken,
Go to this web site for rudder plans, sail plans, daggerboard plans and
Official Banshee Class Rules.
As
far as the rudder, I would suggest taking a router and carefully routing
out the wood laminated to transom until you have a nice clean, flat area
that consists of the Plastic laminate of hull, devoid of any material.
Be careful not to go thru the Transom Laminate with the router or whatever
you decide to use to remove rotting wood!
Cut
a new piece of marine grade plywood at least half inch thick, and use the
router, or by hand if no router, round the edge of the plywood on the bottom
& side that goes against the transom so that it fits the radius of
the hull/transom juncture. It should fit nice and snug between gunwhale
tanks and transom, but not too tight. Rough up plywood with 30 grit sandpaper
on side that laminates to transom and wipe transom and Plywood clean with
acetone. Rough up half inch area on side of tanks (only where new transom
plywood will come in contact with them) so glass and plywood will bond
to tank sides as well as transom itself. (DONT GET MESSY WITH THE RESIN......HUGE
MISTAKE)
Mask
tanks and just ahead of where plywood will end up on hull floor, so you
dont get resin runoff that will leach from transom ply when Ply is clamped
to transom during lamination to hull. Use ounce and a half fiberglass mat
with resin, not "catalyzed" to hot, and place ply against transom area.
Take C-Clamps and place wood 2x4s or similar to use as clamp blocks to
spread the pressure of the clamps evenly as possible against ply and suck
it in as evenly as possible against hull/transom. you might want to clean
any residual resin off boat or elsewhere before it sets up. After glass
has cured for a day or so, put one more layer of ounce and a half mat on
interior side of transom, let cure, sand and finish with coating of choice.
Make sure you seal with resin, the top of the transom, so water does not
intrude into plywood and start rotting it all over again. Install rudder
hardware, drain plug, (note- you may have to adjust tank drains if plywood
overlaps them) install plastic or aluminum trim cap ,1/2 inch wide, over
entire transom top and bond with strong adhesive. I would avoid using screws
to fasten trim cap as it tends to split the plys and allows water to intrude
again.
You
be the judge and dont feel you have to do it "MY" way. OK! Use your own
best judgment. I was a part of Marine Plastics, and built the first generation
of Banshees and Flying Juniors so I have had some experience, but I think
common sense and thinking it out carefully, goes a long way. I have to
replace my rotten transom as well for this season so I will be getting
my hands dirty as well. Best of luck on your new Banshee and hope to meet
you all at Folsom Lake this year.
Best
regards, Skip Stanyan, SF
PS
I'm still looking for a kick up rudder in any workable condition.
------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 19 Feb 2000
To:
banshee
From:
Jonathan Davis
Subject:
For sale
Hey
everyone,
I am
selling my Banshee for $500.00. If you know some one that would like a
Banshee please contact me. The boat is in good condition with all the rigging,
sail, and trailer. The hull is white with a blue deck. I hate to sell it
but I don't have the time to sail. Well pass the word to others.
Thanks,
Jonathan
Davis
Rome,
GA
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
Pedro Mendonça
To:
Subject:
Banshee Building Plans
Date:
Sun, 5 Mar 2000
Dear
Sirs,
I would
like to now if it is possible to order from you or from any other organization
a complete set of building plans of the above mentioned sailing boat.
If it is, please send me details.
Regards
Pedro
Mendonça
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
Skiracer883
Date:
Wed, 8 Mar 2000
Subject:
Banshee rigging
To:
sbonham
Hello,
I just
took ownership of my father's Banshee, which I spent much of my youth enjoying,
and I could really benefit from a good copy of the information needed to
get me back on the water. I tried printing on a HP 612c and just could
not bring it in. If you can E-mail me, or the one listed on this E-mail,
and let me know if you could help me out, I would be very thankfull.
Thank
in advance
Lyle
Cohen
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
Skiracer883
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: Banshee rigging
Hi
Lyle,
I'd
be glad to help. Let me make sure I understand... You tried to print some
materials that I've put online? Are you trying to print the owners
manual or the powerpoint "Rigging Your Banshee" slideshow? I'd be glad
to mail a photocopy of the 4 page manual-- I'm affraid the powerpoint stuff
is "history." All I have is a scan of a printout. I lost the original presentation.
Steve
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
"Dean Eppley"
I
am please to welcome new Banshee owners to the fleet!!!! · Don and
Rochelle Dahl purchased a 1977 banshee and ...· · Ken Cardwell
purchased Banshee #6500· Welcome to Fleet One Sacramento Don, Rochelle
and Ken!!! I plan to update the Fleet One
web Site this weekend (www.geocities.com/banshee_fleet_one/) with a page
listing Fleet One Banshee owners' names, sail numbers, and boat names. I
will not include e-mail addresses or phone numbers
other
than mine so you won't get spammed. If you don't want your name listed,
please send me an e-mail, otherwise, I'll assume it is OK. The list
I have >from Keith does not have boat names, so if you want me to include
your boat's name, please send me an e-mail too. Now is
the time to start getting those Banshees ship shape - Spring is on its
way. For you brave soles, the spring series starts 10 AM March 18
at Folsom Lake Marina. Wednesday night fun races start May 3rd at
6PM Folsom Lake Marina. I look forward to seeing you all!!
Dean
Eppley (Fleet Captain KSHP*) (*Keith Steele's Humble Protege)
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
BansheeGuys
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Reefing Banshee Mainsail?
Dean
and friends,
I have
a couple of questions about my Banshee...
1.
when sailing downwind in moderate to strong winds my mainsail and boom
behave wildly. Is there a way to effectively reef a Banshee mainsail? My
mainsail is raised with a halyard so I can lower it but the boom lowers
too! What do you folks do in strong winds? I'm guessing that you disconnect
the outhaul and wrap the mainsail about the mast-- then reconnect the outhaul????
2.
Also-- I have no boomyang on my rig. Can anyone give me some advice on
building one from scratch?
Thx,
Steve
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
Buesing Mark-QMB001 - Mark_Buesing-QMB001@email.mot.com
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
RE: Reefing Banshee Mainsail?
Great
Mark. Fax # is 912.681.0099 Thx, Steve
>You
must have a vang.
>Give
me your fax number and I'll
sketch one out for you.
>If
you have to reef, you should not be out!
>Mark
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
RE: Reefing Banshee Mainsail?
Mack,
Thanks!
Got it and will visit West Marine in Augusta, GA to get the gear tomorrow.
Steve
>Steve,
>you
definitely need a vang; it will obviate the need to reef. You need at least
a 2 to 1 purchase from eyering on boom to eyering on base of mast.
>My
banshee has a complete vang that I bought from the sail shop with blocks,
a jamcleat and swiveliing shackles. Buy it, (pricey) and clip it on. Most
of the other guys have fancy setups.
>Mack
-- Fleet one
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
Buesing Mark-QMB001
To:
"'Steve Bonham'"
Subject:
RE: Reefing Banshee Mainsail?
Date:
Tue, 14 Mar 2000
You
must have a vang. Give me your fax number and I'll sketch one out for you.
If you have to reef, you should not be out!
Mark
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
"Mack Bishop"
To:
"'Steve Bonham'"
Subject:
RE: Reefing Banshee Mainsail?
Date:
Tue, 14 Mar 2000
Steve,
you definitely need a vang; it will obviate the need to reef. You need
at least a 2 to 1 purchase from eyering on boom to eyering on base of mast.
My banshee has a complete vang that I bought from the sail shop with blocks,
a jamcleat and swiveliing shackles. Buy it, (pricey) and clip it on. Most
of the other guys have fancy setups.
Mack
-- Fleet one --
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
Karafiath Gabor CRBE
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
RE: Reefing Banshee Mainsail?
Attachments:
:Steve's Mac:381:halyard.jpg:
Thx
Gabor,
You
said:
>Steve
> I am very curious about how the mainsail is raised with a halyard. can
you describe this to me?
>Rigging
a boom vang will probably solve your downwind sailing in heavy air and
you will enjoy the boat a lot- lot - lot more!!! The boom vang is attached
to a metal U shaped strap ( Called a "bail" ). This strap is fixed to the
mast at a position just above the deckline. The closer to the deck the
better. The other end of the vang is attached to a similar strap attached
to the boom a short distance back from the gooseneck. The mast, boom and
goosneck form a right triangle. The distance from the goosneck to the boom
bail is a little ( maybe 8 inches) more than the distance from the goosneck
to the deck. For starters you can make the boom vang with a 4 to 1 purchase
pulley system and a cleat. The cleat can be on the pulleys or on the deck.
It is better on the pulleys. In heavy air, have the vang tight. This is
easy to do while you are sailing upwind since you have the mainsheet purchase
to snug down the boom. As you let out the sheet the vang will keep the
end of the boom from rising and there will be a lot more power in the sail
and a lot less rudder control is needed. Keep your weight well aft and
you can get some thrilling rides.
>Gabor
Karafiath
>
Silver Spring MD
>
PS Do you know of anyone who has a mainsail to sell?
I'
m attaching a jpg illustrating my mainsail-halyard setup. [halyard.jpg]
You shopuld be able to view it with your web browser. My mainsail has a
sleeve not a "sock" luff edge. The head of the sail is open.
To
rig my Banshee I:
1.
slip the mainsail onto the mast base (lower piece).
2.
Insert the topmast into the base.
3.
attach the halyard to the eyelet at the head.
4.
thread the halyard thru the pulley at the top of the topmast
5.
Insert the mast base into the mast well in the deck.
6.
attach boom, connect outhaul, & mainsheet
7.
attach rudder
8.
shove off and raise mainsail.
Hope
this answers your question re; using a halyard. It's a bit of a hassle
in a wind as the boom sits inside the boat- until the mainsail is almost
all the way up. Generally it takes TWO to ensure no mishaps.
Nope-
on the "mainsail to sell" question... Check with; Banshee Central 328 3rd
Street W. Sacramento, CA 95605 hartsails@jps.net banshee411@aol.com OR
Abbott Boats Sarnia, Ontario (519) 542-2771 abbott@ebtech.net http://www.abbottboats.com
Happy
sailing, Steve
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
"Mark Dawson" - markdawson@jps.net
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: Reefing Banshee Mainsail?
Thanks
Mark,
I've
got an illustration of the 8:1 double cascade in my trusty "Sailing for
Dummies" book. I'll take it to West Marine tomorrow and get this "pulled"
together for my next excursion. Happy sailing, Steve
>Steve
>Check
out "Sailing
the Banshee in Big Air" on the Banshee web site. You need a vang and
cunningham (downhaul) in order to control the sail in heavy wind. The vang
will keep the boom from lifting when the sheet is let out.
>I
use a double cascade 8:1 vang with the controls led to both sides of the
boat. Look at the Harken and Ronstan web sites for illustrations of vang
and cunningham systems. They are not tough to make, just line, blocks and
cleats.
>Nobody
reefs the banshee sail, and the outhaul is basically two positions, the
distance from your thumb tip to the tip of your index finger with the two
at right angle to one another (6") and the distance from tip of thumb to
tip of smallest finger stretched as far apart as possible (8") measured
at the point of the sails deepest draft. The more wind the less draft,
the more waves the more draft.
>Consider
loosing the halyard all together and sewing a piece of nylon webbing across
the top of the sail sleeve. this will allow the sail to twist off more
and open the leach in strong winds. The mast gives the top of the sail
a huge lever to heel the boat and spilling some wind up there is good in
a blow.
>If
you cant figure the vang thing let me know I can take a picture of mine
and send to you.
>D.B.A.
>Mark
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
"Dean Eppley"
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: Reefing Banshee Mainsail?
Excellent
advice Dean!
Thanks
for the great info. I'll place an order today for the hardware. Yes. my
mast and boom have the connectors in place for the vang. Just didn't know
what to do with it... Happy sailing, Steve
>Steve,
>The
national site http://www-swiss.ai.mit.edu/~bentz/haile.html
has a good article on sailing the Banshee in heavy wind. Without a boom
vang you're hosed in heavy conditions, because the boom will rise and lead
to instant instability "death rolls". The boom vang should be set very
tight in heavy winds - set it upwind so it is snug when strapped in on
a beat. Then don't let the sail out too far. In heavy air, one "rule of
thumb" is not to let the end of the boom to go forward of a line even with
the traveler/thwart. If you have a traveler, it should be out all the way
(although most Folsom Lake Banshee sailors don't think adding a traveler
is worth it). If you are pleasure sailing, don't do deep runs - power reaches
are much more fun. Pretend you are a catamaran and do the "wild thing"
(reaches rather than runs).
>Regarding
reefing, we never reef our Banshee sails - if it is that heavy, we go in.
I have reefed Laser sails in our juniors program by wrapping the main once
or twice around the mast. Mast reefing would work on a Banshee too, although
you would need to tie down the clew (with a loop around the boom) since
it would no longer reach the boom track.. If you do this be sure to remove
the top batten. I don't know of any safe way to reef on the water, so decide
before you go out.
>The
stock banshee boom vang is a 2 to 1 which isn't enough. I'd recommend at
least a 4 to 1. If you do a lot of heavy air you could even go higher.
Does you boom and mast already have eyes on them to accept blocks for the
vang or do you need the measurements? For a 4 -1 get a small double block
with a becket (like a Harken 227 Micro Block or Harken 085 Bullet Block)
for the mast and a plain double block (like a Harken 226 Micro Block or
084 Bullet Block) for the boom. Place a cam cleat in a convenient location
(on the thwart if you don't have a traveler, or on the bulkhead behind
the mast. If you do this, leave enough line that you can reach it from
your normal sailing position (which in heavy air down wind is hiked out
and back).
>Good
luck and have fun!!
>Dean
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
"Abbott Boats Inc."
To:
"'sbonham
Subject:
banshee parts
Date:
Wed, 15 Mar 2000
Dear
Mr. Bonham; Thank you for your inquiry. We have Banshee mast collars for
$6.50 Cnd. plus shipping and handling. You can pay by mastercard - fax
to the number below the credit card number, expiry date and authorized
card holder name. If you have any questions, please contact this office.
Thank
you, Alona
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
"Dean Eppley"
To:
"Steve Bonham"
Subject:
Re: Reefing Banshee Mainsail?
Date:
Thu, 16 Mar 2000
Steve,
Glad
I could help. If you find the 4 to 1 isn't enough, you can double it to
8-1 with a cascade. Just add one more single block to the boom and another
eye to the mast. My poor attempt at a drawing is attached. Be sure to use
stainless steel rivets to connect the eye to the mast.
Have
fun! Dean
Attachment
converted: Steve's Mac:vang.bmp (BMPf/ogle) (0004F209)
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
"Tom Goodwin" - tgoodwin@macnexus.org
Subject:
Re: Reefing Banshee Mainsail?
To:
Steve Bonham
Date:
Sat, 18 Mar 2000
Steve.
i'll
try to tackle the questions. Mebbe someone has already done it ?
Q#1...no
we don't wrap the sail around the mast. our sails are cut to be used w/o
reefing. we do a little out-haul and a little cunningham...that's it. anyway
the battens really won't let you do too much. We sometimes wrap for the
kids around the docks when the kids are 100 pounds. not for regular sailing.
When it blows too much we either go-for-it or go home. There is an alternative
sail that works fair/middling that has the battens running vertically,
that way it can be 'reefed' to the smallest size. (you'd need a looonnng
out-haul/reef line) We don't have a sail like that here in our fleet of
thirty boats however.
q#2
about the vang? well you'd better look at any other small boat to get a
visual idea. i use a 'waterfall' type and it doesn't help one bit. You're
probably best to just use a double block assembly and forget some tricky
other way.
signed
tom , fleet #1 measurer.
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
"Dean Eppley"
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: Reefing Banshee Mainsail?
Dean
(and friends),
Poor
attempt my butt! Your illustration was great. My 4:1 Vang kit should arrive
today or tomorrow. I did order an extra double and single block so I very
well may step up to an 8:1. The responses to my question have been outstanding.
I've gotten about ten very detailed and quite helpful replies regarding
using/designing a vang, alternatives, and reefing the Banshee mainsail.
What a wealth of knowledge we have here. The Banshee community is alive
and well. I'm quite jealous of the group you Folsom Lake folks have cultivated.
Must be a lot of fun! I plan to take a few photos next time out. I'll post
the url when they are on-line.
Thanks
again (and MANY thanks to you other responders!),
Steve
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
Geo2geo
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: Reefing Banshee Mainsail?
Geo,
I got
quite a few replies to my question. Most said you don't reef a Banshee
mainsail. Just use the vang 4:1, 8:1, or 16:1... and When it get too rough
go in. A couple said they have reefed their mainsail by wrapping the mainsail
about the mast. Requires doing so prior to sailing and requires removal
of the uppermost batten. I suspect that it would be possible to lower a
portion of the mainsail and fold it atop the boom (true reefing) IF one
used a boom hoist running from the end of the boom to the top of ther mast
and down to a cleat.
Good
luck and happy sailing, Steve
>i
have three banshees
>one
has reef cringles sewn into the sail but the others do not would be interested
in info about reefing we sail on Heron Lake in New Mexico
>thanks
------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 20 Mar 2000
To:
Steve Bonham
From:
Mike Salmon
Subject:
Re: JC strap???
Steve:
You're more than welcome! I got the impression you intend to use the jc
strap as a substitute for a vang. This is to let you know the two have
entirely different functions and one will not substitute for the other!
If I've misunderstood, don't bother reading any farther. A vang keeps your
boom positioned horizontally when you ease the sail (i.e., when reaching
and running). You will need at least 4:1 purchase and 8:1 is even better,
given the size of the Banshee mainsail. It should also be double-ended
you can adjust the vang while hiking from either side of the boat. Incidentally,
it's easy to make a 4:1 system into an 8:1 system. If you want another
sketch, let me know. The jc strap, on the other hand, is used only in light
air, and functions to keep the boom to leeward even when you heel the boat
to windward (which you should do going downwind in very light air). The
jc strap is unnecessary and shouldn't be used unless you're sailing in
very light air (or believe you'll encounter light air at some time during
a race).
[Mike
has a page entitled "Rigging
Your Banshee" on the Nat'l page site. It has some great tips on using
a vang, J-C Strap, bailers, daggerboard gasket, hiking straps, and a tiller
"preventer."]
At
09:14 AM 3/20/00 -0400, you wrote:
>Mike,
>Thanks
so much for taking the time to explain and illustrate the JC-Strap. I got
your drawings this weekend and TRUELY a picture is worth a thousand words...
On-line friends who go to such lengths are worth a lot more!
>I've
ordered a 4:1 Vang and will give it a shot first -- if that is as useless
as a few folks have told me I'll try the JC-Strap. I may even try to rig
up a combo Vang/JC-Strap contraption. I really like the idea of the boom
"hoist" [also called a top lift of boom lift] and will implement that on
my next sail.
>Thanks
again,
>Steve
------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 11 Apr 2000
To:
banshee
From:
brian hughes
Subject:
sail for sale ???
can
anyone direct me to someone that has a new or used sail for sale
Brian
Hughes
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
"J. Bob Crotts"
To:
Subject:
sail
Date:
Tue, 25 Apr 2000
I am
looking for a sail as my sail was stolen. Could someone point me in the
right direction to replace my sail , I do recreational sailng
Thanks
Bob
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
"Bill Wright"
To:
Subject:
Banshee Class
Date:
Sun, 7 May 2000
Is
there an active Banshee racing class. I have a boat that's been in
storage for years, and might race it if there was a fleet within a reasonable
distance of southeast Michigan.
------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 07 May 2000
From:
Bob Esperanza
Subject:
Banshee site
To:
Steve Bonham
Found
your rigging site today, and saw a lot of informative stuff. I was wondering
if you had anything in the way of templates for the daggerboard or rudder?
I'm without a set and could really use some ideas for making one. Thanks.
[Daggerboard
design]
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
TRUDYCONNERS
Date:
Fri, 26 May 2000
Subject:
banshee
To:
sbonham
I am
sorry to ask you this, but I have just acquired a banshee sailboat and
need to know how to rig it correctly. Since I have obviously visited your
web site, for some reason I can't seem to print your documents off the
Internet. Could you please email me the documents so that I can print them.
I am also in need of some replacement parts if you know of any information
about where I might get them from could you please forward that information
also. New sailor.
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
TRUDYCONNERS
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: banshee
Hi
Trudy,
Try
this Rigging
Your Banshee spot-- (my online html document) or
a
pdf version of the same info
Hope it
helps, Steve
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
BansheeGuys
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Rigging Your Banshee Updated
Hey
Banshee Sailors,
Just
finished uploading my new and revised "Rigging
Your Banshee" pages. Comments, suggestions welcome.
Steve
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
TRUDYCONNERS
Date:
Sat, 3 Jun 2000
Subject:
Banshee
To:
sbonham
Steve,
Thank
you for helping me get to your sight so that I could print out all the
rigging information for my Sailboat. The person that I purchased it from
did not know how to rig it right and I would like to learn to appropriate
way. I just picked up by boat today and am excited to get the information
and get out in the yard to practice rigging it.
Thanks
again. Trudy
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
TRUDYCONNERS
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: Banshee
Trudy,
You
are welcome. Glad I could help. Where are you going to go sailing with
your new (to you) Banshee? If you have any trouble with the instructions
let me know-- Steve
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
TRUDYCONNERS
Date:
Mon, 5 Jun 2000
Subject:
Re: Banshee
To:
sbonham
I didn't
have any problems rigging the boat. I plan to sail the boat on the lake
6 minutes from my home, Lake Thunderbird in Oklahoma.
Thanks
again, Trudy
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
"Mike Sullivan"
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: Rigging your Banshee
Hi
Mike,
In
my "Rigging
Your Banshee" pages I mention the weight and lenghts and on my main
Banshee page there are links to places to purchase this stuff on-line.
Good luck, Steve
>Thanks
for the reply! The info is great. I am still in the process of getting
her ready to sail. I had to replace the teak, Wow that stuff is expensive!
Everything seems functional. I am a little worried about the hull taking
so much sun over the years. Hopefully this summer I will get her on the
water.
>I
do have one question: What type of rope should I use for the lines. I will
figure out the sizes but I don't know what material to use or where to
get it.
>Again
thanks for the info, you will really help me a bunch when the time comes
to put it all back together.
>--Mike
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
"BRYAN A. BENTZ"
To:
Steve Bonham
Date:
Fri, 9 Jun 2000
Subject:
Re: Rigging Your Banshee Updated
I put
a pointer to the rigging page(s) on the main Banshee page. Bryan
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
RUSSGROVE
Date:
Tue, 20 Jun 2000
Subject:
new banshee owner
To:
sbonham
Hi,
I just found your web site after some searching. I recently found a Banshee
and am excited but no nothing about sailing. Your information is great
since I have had to do lots of repair and the rigging was not clear. Thanks
for providing this essential information.
Russ
Grove
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
RUSSGROVE
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: new banshee owner
Glad
the banshee stuff was useful Russ, Where do you sail? BTW, there is a great
book for beginning sailors that you may find useful-- _Sailing for Dummies_.
It covers dingies to crewed boats. Well worth the $20. I've been sailed
for 7 years now and read several boks--- it's the best one out there.
Best
of luck with your Banshee, Steve
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
Tyler Colt
To:
sbonham
Subject:
rigging direction
Date:
Tue, 27 Jun 2000
Steve,
Just
went through your direction on rigging banshees. Want to thank you for
a great job and welcome resource. My experience was been with BeetleCats
(old wooden gaff rigged dinghy's of Cape Cod) and Coronado's mostly. Recently
got my hands on Banshee and now can double check a few things I've been
doing against your directions. Great job! - Thanks. Tyler
S.
Tyler Colt
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
Tyler Colt
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: rigging direction
Hey
Tyler,
Thanks
for your comments. Sorry to reply so late-- been sailing on Roanoake Sound
on the outer banks of NC. A wonderful place to sail the banshee if you
can get there.
Best
of luck with your bird. Steve
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
Byeager1945
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: Thank you for the Rigging Instructions....
Hey
Bill,
Glad
that you found the pages useful. Where do you sail? And are you aware of
the other Banshee websites- Brian's and the Folsom lake group? Steve
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
Byeager1945
Date:
Thu, 6 Jul 2000
Subject:
Re: Thank you for the Rigging Instructions....
To:
sbonham
Hi
Steve,
Yes,
I am aware of the other Banshee Websites. They were the first sites I found
when I first bought the boat. It is great to read about the adventures
of others. I sail mostly on state park lakes here in central Pa. and also
on Seneca Lake in New York State. I'm not into racing, I just like to put
up the sail, lay back, and go where the wind takes me. It is very relaxing
for me. Thanks for you interest.
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
Byeager1945
Date:
Sat, 30 Sep 2000
Subject:
Re: Thank you...
To:
sbonham
Steve,
It was only about 2.5 miles across - round trip of 5 miles. For me, it
was a great experience. I gained some confidence. Next year, I hope to
sail "down" the lake towards Watkins Glen and back. Maybe double my distance.
Thanks
for your interest. Bill
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
"Magnus Emilsson"
Subject:
Banshee rigging
Date:
Fri, 21 Jul 2000
Dear
Steve,
Thank
you for your well done rigging guide for the Banshee. It has been a big
help. A few weeks ago I picked-up a Banshee with two sails (original white
and rainbow color) and trailer for a reasonable price. It needs a little
work, but is mostly serviceable. I made a new centerboard gasket out of
and old motorcycle innertube, like you mentioned. My transom is a little
weak, but will probably last at least a few more seasons. My boom had been
repaired by a previous owner reasonably well, but I made it a little better
by adding a washer to the pin that goes into the center of the boom, to
handle the thrust load. I will definitely add a "boom lift line" as you
have shown. To keep the rudder from falling out, I drilled a hole in the
bottom rudder gudgeon pin for a hair-pin-clip, and put a lanyard on it.
Right now all I need to sail are some plugs
Thanks
again.
Magnus
Emilsson Wallingford, CT
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
"Magnus Emilsson"
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: Banshee rigging
Hi
Magnus,
You
are quite welcome-- glad it was helpful. That's a good idea on the rudder.
I'll check that possibily on my set-up.
Happy
sailing, Steve
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
JayL271
Date:
Sat, 22 Jul 2000
Subject:
New Banshee
To:
sbonham
Steve:
Thanks for the tips. I just bought a 10 year-old yellow banshee. Much to
my surprise, there was no halyard, just a small clip at the top of the
mast for the grommet. Thanks to your page, it looks like an easy fix for
this novice sailer.
Happy
Sailing,
Jay
Lichter Old Lyme, CT.
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
"Michael Mairs"
To:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
sail stays
Date:
Tue, 1 Aug 2000
I just
bought a Banshee. 2 sails. how many stays, how long? per sail
thanks,
mike mairs
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
"Michael Mairs"
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: sail stays
Mike,
To
my knowledge no one is staying their mast-- I've been curious myself as
to if anyone is using a jib or genoa on a Banshee. So far, I have not found
anyone that is. Did you try contacting the guys at Lake Folsom, California?
or Brian Bentz at MIT? Steve
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
"Michael Mairs"
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: OK then, battens
Mike,
Try
this webpage: Banshee
Sailplan. It has an illustration of sail with 4 batten pockets. Lengths
are 36", 36", 30" and 18" I'm not sure what you mean by "taper"-- but hopefully
this page and the other associated pages in the Banshee Racing rulebook
will help.
Steve
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
"mike"
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: OK then, battens
Mike,
You're
welcome. I didn't know that those things were called stays-- Learn some
everyday, eh? Best of luck with your Banshee. Steve
>Thanks
so much.
>in
my collar they are stays, of course in sails they are battens. thanks for
your patience, things are coming together nicely.
>mike
mairs
>-----
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
"mike"
To:
"Steve Bonham"
Subject:
Re: OK then, battens
Date:
Tue, 8 Aug 2000
Thanks
so much. in my collar they are stays, of course in sails they are battens.
thanks for your patience, things are coming together nicely.
mike
mairs
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
Smocinlizard
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: (no subject)
Hey
Randy,
Glad
you found the pages useful. Where are you going to sail your Banshee? Breezy
days, Steve
>Steve,
I really appreciate your great rigging instructions for the Banshee. I've
had mine I bought mine from a guy that raced them about ten years ago.
I only sailed it a few times then stored it for all these years. Well this
weekend I'm going to give it another shot. Your rigging instructions were
great. Thanks.
>Randy
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
RAugur
Date:
Wed, 23 Aug 2000
Subject:
Ho
To:
sbonham
I am
trying to gather information as to what the worth is of a Banshee in good
operating condition is, including a trailer.
Thank
you for your help, R. Augur
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
RAugur
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: Ho
R,
I paid
$500 for boat and trailer (includeds sails, daggerboard, etc.) when mine
was already 15 years old back around 1992. It has been well worth the hours
of fun it has provided. Steve
>I
am trying to gather information as to what the worth is of a Banshee in
good operating condition is, including a trailer. Thank you for your help,
>R.
Augur
------------------------------------------------------------
From:
CHNix
Date:
Thu, 24 Aug 2000
Subject:
Banshee vs Sunfish
To:
sbonham
Steve:
About thee years ago I took a sailing class and really enjoyed sailing.
I am now looking at buying a boat. In the class, I sailed a Butterfly.
I have been looking at Sunfish but have come across a Banshee that is in
good shape. Since I am a novice can you tell me which boat may be more
appropriate for me. I live in north Georgia (Rome) and will be sailing
on local lakes and along the Gulf. Since you also live in Georgia, can
you tell me which months we usually have adequate wind to enjoy the sport?
Any comparrisons that you can give between the two boats is apprciated.
Chuck
------------------------------------------------------------
To:
CHNix
From:
Steve Bonham
Subject:
Re: Banshee vs Sunfish
Hi
Chuck,
Memories...
I learned to sail in a Sunfish. Good little boat. Not as fast as a Banshee.
Can't take many folks with you. But it is a sturdy boat- and the company
)Vanguard) still exists and will be there for parts, etc.
My
Comparison: Some of these are specs some are my personal ratings (personal
ratings [on a 10 point scale- with 10 ideal] marked with *).
| |
Sunfish
(Vanguard) |
Banshee |
| Length |
13'9" |
13' |
| Beam |
49" |
60" |
| Draft |
36"
(centerboard) |
46"
(daggerboard) |
| Weight
(hull) |
140
lbs |
130
lbs |
Transport
Note:
it takes TWO to get either cartopped! |
cartop,trailer |
cartop,trailer |
| #
passengers |
singlehander
|